Best street rotors/pads for the money? - Ford Mustang Forum
Like Tree2Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 28 (permalink) Old 04-23-2015 Thread Starter
PONY Member
 
Kbreeze's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2011
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 519
 
Best street rotors/pads for the money?

My 2012 5.0 (Non-Brembo) has around 30k miles and has warped rotor(s) which is really annoying, so I figure it’s time to get new rotors and pads.


My car is only street driven, I never go to the track. Also I drive easy 95% of the time. However, it does occasionally need to be pulled down from high speeds if you know what I mean.


What’s the best setup for the money? Would prefer rotors that don’t warp or rust, if possible. Also, should I just replace the fronts or get a full set?


2012 GT Premium Black/Saddle, Auto, HID's/security. 19x9.5 RTR w/285/40 & 255/40 MPSS | Koni STR.T's and Eibach Prokit | Bama tune & Airaid CAI | GT500 AB | GT500 rear spoiler, Roush side splitters, Boss Front fascia & splitter | Billet interior bits| JL Audio 570's & dynamat
Kbreeze is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 28 (permalink) Old 04-23-2015
PONY Member
5.0L Member
S197 Member
 
jbt56's Avatar
 
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 644
 
Although I can't help directly with your question, I have to say, if your rotors are, indeed, warped after only 35k miles, you're doing it wrong.
Under 'easy' driving, the brakes *should* be good for at least 50k, if not 100k miles. My 2011 base GT just turned over 40k this week, and my OE pads still measure about 7-8mm thick- front and rear. I'd estimate that 80%+ of my driving is around town.
As far as rotors not rusting, you'd have to look at carbon fiber, as all other rotors are cast iron. You could look into painting the non-contact areas with some hi-temp paint- that would help the rust issue some.
Good luck!

jbt56 is offline  
post #3 of 28 (permalink) Old 04-23-2015
GT Member
S197 Member
 
csamsh's Avatar
 
Joined: Mar 2012
Location: OKC
Posts: 2,259
       
Best rotors are centric premium blanks. $100 each. No drills, no slots.

Coincidentally, these are the best cost/performance rotors for track too.

For pads, I'd do stock or carbotech 1521. Don't like hawk, but they're popular.

2002 C5 Z51. MCS 2WNR TT2 coilovers, 18x11 Forgestars, 315's, yada yada. Built Z06 T56. Bolt ons. Coming soon to a CAM event near you.

2013 F150 6.2L. 9mpg.

csamsh is offline  
 
post #4 of 28 (permalink) Old 04-23-2015
GT Member
S197 Member
 
csamsh's Avatar
 
Joined: Mar 2012
Location: OKC
Posts: 2,259
       
Rotors will rust. The above poster means carbon ceramic, not carbon fiber. Unless you've got 10k for rotors, you don't want that.

Easy ways to avoid rust- 1. Drive the car. 2. Use the brakes, and clean off the rust

2002 C5 Z51. MCS 2WNR TT2 coilovers, 18x11 Forgestars, 315's, yada yada. Built Z06 T56. Bolt ons. Coming soon to a CAM event near you.

2013 F150 6.2L. 9mpg.

csamsh is offline  
post #5 of 28 (permalink) Old 04-23-2015
PONY Member
5.0L Member
S197 Member
 
jbt56's Avatar
 
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 644
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by csamsh View Post
Rotors will rust. The above poster means carbon ceramic, not carbon fiber. Unless you've got 10k for rotors, you don't want that.

Easy ways to avoid rust- 1. Drive the car. 2. Use the brakes, and clean off the rust
Thanks! I knew after I'd typed it that carbon fiber didn't sound right for rotors, but it was early...

OP- review your braking methods, as that really is LOW mileage for any sort of brake issues- for a street-driven car. If you were on a hilly road-race course often, I could see it, but not for easy street driving.
jbt56 is offline  
post #6 of 28 (permalink) Old 04-23-2015
BOSS Member
 
Beechkid's Avatar
 
Joined: Apr 2013
Location: SoCal
Posts: 4,447
           
With regards to brake linings in general,

Ceramics: They are good but do not develop any more friction than good
quality OEM linings....because that is what is very commonly used by the oem's

Performance Friction & Hawk: Good braking, increased friction but can be dirty compared to OEM depending on the specific compound

Wagner & Raybestos: a line of products that is 100% marketing and mfg from very low quality/inexpensive and/or imported products with the mfg's not providing any back-up or support on product failures (and I mean real ugly spontaneous, catestropihic failures)


VelveTouch lining- Used for many decades and was the original lining used in all Shelby Mustangs in the 60’s (I personally have used the Velvetouch lining since 1960’s until brake lining production ceased in 1986), then switched to Carbo. Wellman has been the builder of braking linings for all of the Formula 1 race teams for more than 30 years and VT is now available again.

Bendix- TitaniuMetallic™ II, a newer lining (semi-metallic) and although I have not personally used this, I have always been impressed with Bendix brake linings and this particular lining IIMHO would be a low dust, excellent oem upgrade/mild performance type brake lining.


CarboTech Engineering lining, which I have used for about 20+ years and been very happy on multiple full size (V8) cars and trucks. This particular lining has a high friction co-efficient, excellent pedal feel, wears (typically 50,000 to 75,000 miles before replacement is required) and produces less dust than OEM linings.

I highly recommend speaking to them by phone for linings that would be best for your application. Fyi- braking co-efficient is what identifies the bite rating of the linings- you want the CE to be no less than that of the OEM.....this will drive most e-base distributors & big box store "experts" right out of their mind because they either cannot verify this info or you will find the spec is less than oem. IMHO, i would look for a CE that is .49 or greater.

With regards to rotors, I have previously run Brembo OEM replacement rotors that are cryogenically treated at Diversified Cryogenics, making them almost as hard as stainless steel. Unfortunately, most every aftermarket vendor....Brembo, Powerslot, Raybestos, Bendix, Hawk etc. are all purchasing their rotors from the same foundary in China (with the exception of the $300 each composite high end units for Ferrari, Porsche, etc).

DC purchases the highest grade rotors made, laser mic them for quality, scrap the ones that are out of spec and cryogenically treat the good ones which are now as strong as stainless. DC's service, price and quality are excellent as well.

For street use, slotted/drilled rotors are just “cheese-graters” for the brake pads IMHO, because unless you are involved in true racing conditions, the brake linings do not produce the gases which slotted/drilled rotors are designed to relive. In some cases, brake testing indicated reduce brake efficiency in street-based operations using slotted/drilled rotors when equal comparisons were made. The staff at DC can speak to you as well regarding those options, but I am very satisfied with the performance & wear of these products.

:hello:
Member: Never trust a person over 40 who drives a Chevy club
Flatheads ain't so bad!
Certified backyard mechanic I & II
Beechkid is offline  
post #7 of 28 (permalink) Old 04-24-2015 Thread Starter
PONY Member
 
Kbreeze's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2011
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 519
 
Thanks for the feedback guys, especially Beechkid, I appreciate it.

@jbt56 Actually I only have 31k miles, and I am not sure what the problem is, I really drive very easy most of the time, leave plenty of gap between me and the driver ahead of me and usually brake very slowly and gradually. Not sure if it's a defect in the rotors and something with the pads or build up. Maybe the very rare 120+mph slow down did it, I don't know. There might be plenty of pad left, but there's a warble most of the time when I brake.


I'm debating between the Carbotech 1521's and Stoptech strret pads. Just not sure if the Carbotech's are worth more than double the price...


For Rotors, I might just see if my stockers can be resurfaced...Maybe they aren't warped?

@Beechkid I was looking at DC for their cryo rotors but wasn't sure which was best to go with. Was looking at their regular blank ones.These in particular:


http://www.frozenrotors.com/product/...andard+brakes/

2012 GT Premium Black/Saddle, Auto, HID's/security. 19x9.5 RTR w/285/40 & 255/40 MPSS | Koni STR.T's and Eibach Prokit | Bama tune & Airaid CAI | GT500 AB | GT500 rear spoiler, Roush side splitters, Boss Front fascia & splitter | Billet interior bits| JL Audio 570's & dynamat
Kbreeze is offline  
post #8 of 28 (permalink) Old 04-24-2015
BOSS Member
 
Beechkid's Avatar
 
Joined: Apr 2013
Location: SoCal
Posts: 4,447
           
Yes...those should do just fine for you!

:hello:
Member: Never trust a person over 40 who drives a Chevy club
Flatheads ain't so bad!
Certified backyard mechanic I & II
Beechkid is offline  
post #9 of 28 (permalink) Old 04-28-2015 Thread Starter
PONY Member
 
Kbreeze's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2011
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 519
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by csamsh View Post
Best rotors are centric premium blanks. $100 each. No drills, no slots.

Coincidentally, these are the best cost/performance rotors for track too.

For pads, I'd do stock or carbotech 1521. Don't like hawk, but they're popular.
Just checked out the centric premiums, and they seem a lot less than $100 each. I'm finding them for around $60 each for fronts and $30 each for the rears:

http://www.amazon.com/Centric-120-61098-Disc-Brake-Rotor/dp/B005E9TKYE
hhttp://www.amazon.com/Centric-Parts-120-61087-Premium-E-Coating/dp/B000IY66CE

Maybe even cheaper at places like Rock Auto.

Are these the same rotors you are talking about?

2012 GT Premium Black/Saddle, Auto, HID's/security. 19x9.5 RTR w/285/40 & 255/40 MPSS | Koni STR.T's and Eibach Prokit | Bama tune & Airaid CAI | GT500 AB | GT500 rear spoiler, Roush side splitters, Boss Front fascia & splitter | Billet interior bits| JL Audio 570's & dynamat
Kbreeze is offline  
GT Member
 
PMDmustang13's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2012
Location: Omaha
Posts: 1,651
 
I would certainly see if you can have your stock rotors turned. They can tell you if they are warped also. If they are warped it may have happened by hot rotors cooling off unevenly from hitting deep ponding water.

And if you are finding the centric front rotors for 60 bucks each then you should jump on those and use them in the future if need be.
huberoy123 likes this.

2013 GT, Track Pack, Recaros, Kooks Axlebacks, Airaid CAI, BMR Rear Adj. LCAs, BMR Relocation Brackets, JLT Oil Separator(s), Barton 2 Post Shifter Bracket, Steeda Motor Mounts, Barton Shifter, JHR Clutch line, BMR adj. UCA and Mount, Kooks 1 3/4 headers/catted H, DSS Al Shaft, BMR Loop, Vogtland Sport Springs front/BMR rear, Strange Adj. Struts/Shocks, Extended ball joints, Steeda Bumpsteer Kit, Whiteline Tranny Mount Bushing, Borla Overaxles, BMR Watts, Vorshlag 3" Ducts
PMDmustang13 is offline  
post #11 of 28 (permalink) Old 04-28-2015 Thread Starter
PONY Member
 
Kbreeze's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2011
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 519
 
Well after a lot of reading, I went with what I felt was the best bang for the buck setup for new rotors and pads at all 4 corners:

New Rotors: Centric Premium blanks
New pads: Stoptech Street Performance

Ordered from Rock Auto with a 5% coupon code:

Part Number Part Type Price EA Core EA Quantity Total
2012 FORD MUSTANG 5.0L V8
CENTRIC 12061087 (120.61087) Rotor $ 29.89 $ 0.00 2 $ 59.78
CENTRIC 12061098 (120.61098) Rotor $ 58.79 $ 0.00 2 $ 117.58
CENTRIC 30914650 (309.14650) Brake Pad $ 38.79 $ 0.00 2 $ 77.58
CENTRIC 30914630 (309.14630) Brake Pad $ 47.79 $ 0.00 2 $ 95.58
Discount $ -17.53
Shipping Ground $ 29.35
Order Total $ 362.34


EDIT: I'm a dumbass....I just realized I ordered Two sets of brake pads for both the rear and the front! Total Price should have only been about $279!


Now I think I want to add new brake fluid too. Suggestions on the best for both street and preventing overheating?

2012 GT Premium Black/Saddle, Auto, HID's/security. 19x9.5 RTR w/285/40 & 255/40 MPSS | Koni STR.T's and Eibach Prokit | Bama tune & Airaid CAI | GT500 AB | GT500 rear spoiler, Roush side splitters, Boss Front fascia & splitter | Billet interior bits| JL Audio 570's & dynamat

Last edited by Kbreeze; 04-29-2015 at 10:43 AM.
Kbreeze is offline  
MACH I Member
5.0L Member
 
Tominator's Avatar
 
Joined: Nov 2003
Location: Cahokia
Posts: 3,106
 
Quote:
They can tell you if they are warped also. If they are warped it may have happened by hot rotors cooling off unevenly from hitting deep ponding water.
Rotors do not warp. The pulsing in the pedal is caused by the transfer of pad material to the rotor surface. The only reason the stock rotors could not be turned would be thickness.

However, I always replace rotors as the greater cost is negated by taking the time to get the rotors turned, the cost and interruption in the brake replacement. Time is money...
huberoy123 likes this.

'95 Ranger 5.0 GT40X Tri-y GT40 Intake S-Trim Snow Stage 2 Lowered Baer Racing Brakes Viper Spec Tremec w/Hurst shifter Custom Interior Dakota Digital Dash Corbeau Toplines OZ Racing AM/FM/Mp3/CD/DVD/TV.

2014 GTIG 5.0 Vert Base. Sil Carb Fiber dash. Bama Race Tune. Gibson axle backs. STEEDA Springs KONI STR.T Adj. Panhard. Dynamatted. Audiocontrol LC8i Amps and Sub! Leather OEM seats. Custom Badging.
Tominator is offline  
post #13 of 28 (permalink) Old 04-29-2015 Thread Starter
PONY Member
 
Kbreeze's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2011
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 519
 
I'm a dumbass....I just realized I ordered Two sets of brake pads for both the rear and the front! Total Price should have only been about $279!

@Tominator: I'm with you, I'd rather just get new rotors

2012 GT Premium Black/Saddle, Auto, HID's/security. 19x9.5 RTR w/285/40 & 255/40 MPSS | Koni STR.T's and Eibach Prokit | Bama tune & Airaid CAI | GT500 AB | GT500 rear spoiler, Roush side splitters, Boss Front fascia & splitter | Billet interior bits| JL Audio 570's & dynamat
Kbreeze is offline  
GT Member
 
PMDmustang13's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2012
Location: Omaha
Posts: 1,651
 
Well you might as well keep the extra pads as you may need them someday.

2013 GT, Track Pack, Recaros, Kooks Axlebacks, Airaid CAI, BMR Rear Adj. LCAs, BMR Relocation Brackets, JLT Oil Separator(s), Barton 2 Post Shifter Bracket, Steeda Motor Mounts, Barton Shifter, JHR Clutch line, BMR adj. UCA and Mount, Kooks 1 3/4 headers/catted H, DSS Al Shaft, BMR Loop, Vogtland Sport Springs front/BMR rear, Strange Adj. Struts/Shocks, Extended ball joints, Steeda Bumpsteer Kit, Whiteline Tranny Mount Bushing, Borla Overaxles, BMR Watts, Vorshlag 3" Ducts
PMDmustang13 is offline  
PONY Member
 
gManTexas's Avatar
 
Joined: Mar 2015
Location: Austin
Posts: 702
 
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kbreeze View Post
Well after a lot of reading, I went with what I felt was the best bang for the buck setup for new rotors and pads at all 4 corners:


Now I think I want to add new brake fluid too. Suggestions on the best for both street and preventing overheating?
Brembo LCF 600 Plus comes highly recommended. When it is time to change my pads that's what I'm going with.


2011 Race Red GT vert, 5.0 A6
FRPP ProCal, JLT oil separator, Boss 302 quads w/ Corsa Xtreme axle backs, Koni STR.T (orange), GT500 strut mounts, Steeda Sports, Steeda billet LCAs, Steeda adj UCA, Steeda adj rear swaybar, BMR adj panhard, BMR lca relocation brackets, Boss 302 lower front fascia
gManTexas is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Ford Mustang Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a VALID email address for yourself, otherwise you will not receive the necessary confirmation email needed to confirm, validate and activate your new AFM member account.

Failure to provide a VALID email address, will result in the cancellation of your new AFM member account registration.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome
 


Search Engine Friendly URLs by vBSEO 3.6.1