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Kooks 1-7/8" header install

6K views 20 replies 9 participants last post by  2011GTBolterOn 
#1 ·
I am currently waiting on a set of ceramic coated kooks headers from maryland speed, and in the mean time I am trying to figure out the best way to install them. Is dropping the K member required? Seems like a lot of people go that route because it gives them better access to get all of the header bolts tightened down but was wondering if anyone has installed these by just removing the engine mounts and lifting the engine. Also where is the best place to support the engine? Seems like it would be at the transmission bell housing right after the oil pan.
 
#2 ·
I think I started to install mine without pulling the K-member but decided early on to drop it out of the way. I think the motor mounts may be a bit of a pain to remove without dropping it though. When I installed headers in my car I supported the engine by the ribbing on the bottom of the transmission- but I have a manual. I helped a friend install headers in his 5.4L F-150 and we just used a sheet of rubber and a piece of plywood under the oil pan and made sure it contacted the entire underside of the sump and it supported the weight just fine.
 
#3 ·
I don't know man, I put mine on in about 20 minutes. It was easy as pie although there were a couple of the nuts that were a pain in the ass. I also used new factory studs.

 
#4 ·
Are you talking with the engine pulled like in your pic? That doesn't count.
 
#5 ·
Hey, they are on there aren't they hahaha. Yep, that is mine and how I did them.
 
#6 ·
Well i certainly won't be removing my engine when I do the install but I suppose if you had to pull it out that would be the easiest way to install the headers, lol.
 
#7 ·
I dropped the k member when I did mine, didn't really have trouble getting to any of the bolts after that. Just lost of extensions wobble sockets and persistence ha. I supported mine at the transmission bell housing with a jack and some wood.


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#8 ·
I had a shop install mine for approximately 500 dollars because there were a couple bolts I could not get to on the driver's side when I was trying to install my steeda motor mounts. I did not want to damage my AC lines.

So anyway the shop did not drop the K-member when they installed the 1 3/4" Kooks.

The header bolts needed tightened a couple times since then and they charged me 90 dollars each time. First time I believe one of the bolts disappeared and needed replaced.
 
#9 ·
Sounds like some stage 8 locking fasteners are in order then. I don't want to have to worry about re-tightening header bolts later
 
#10 ·
Just use the hardware that comes with the headers. It's good practice to check header fasteners after a handful of heat cycles as it's not uncommon for them to loosen. Once they take a set they should be good to go though- especially with the size, quality and style of hardware used on the 5.0. I snugged each of mine after a couple weeks of driving and I haven't had a leak in almost three years and 35000 miles.
 
#12 ·
You also need to make sure that you use the correct fasteners for your engine. There are 2 different thread patterns if I remember correctly. Kooks provides both sets of fasteners so make sure you match the threads on the studs or bolts you pull out.
 
#13 ·
Yes I am aware of the 2 different thread patterns. I decided I will be dropping the K and replacing it with the BMR unit for the added clearance and weight savings. I guess if you guys think the supplied bolts are good then I will use those. Will also hopefully be using my buddies lift for the install so hopefully it won't be too bad.
 
#15 ·
Yea its been 3 months and i just finally received the x pipe and the headers are at the coater. Should be another week or two until i receive the headers. I think they should revise their lead times from 3-5 weeks for coated headers to 3 to 5 months lol. If i didnt already have my bbk long tubes i would be a lot more upset.

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#16 ·
Just got word that I will be receiving my headers next week and I will be using my buddy's lift to install them labor day weekend. I will let you all know how the install goes with my BMR K member already in place.
 
#17 ·
So got my headers this week (finally) and I had a dumb question about the header gaskets they provided. Noticed they are curved as you can see in the attached pic. The front of the gasket curves down (top in the picture) and the bottom of the gasket curves up. Which side goes to the headers and which side goes to the engine? The instructions do not say.
 

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#18 ·
Also on a side note Maryland Speed gave me stage 8 hardware for the headers in both thread patterns and for the mid-pipe. Not sure if this is standard for them or if they were hooking me up for having to wait longer than usual for my headers.
 
#20 ·
Well, I finally finished installing my headers last weekend, needless to say it took a lot longer than expected, took me and a friend 2 weekends and that was using a lift. However this was my first rodeo as far as tackling a header installation of this difficulty. I would say the hardest part was figuring out how to get a few of the header bolts threaded in on the drivers side as well as reinstalling the steering shaft after the header is in place. Getting the passenger side header into place was also a pain because the trans lines get in the way and there was a stud I was unable to remove (the frontmost stud on top) because there is an A/C line right in front of it. After all the header bolts were tight everything else went smoothly. If I had known how many issues I would have run into installing these I would've just had a shop do it. But whatever its all water under the bridge now and it was a good learning experience. I haven't gone WOT yet as I am going to send a datalog to Lund just to make sure everything is still good, but on the test drive home I didn't notice any drive-ability issues just from switching to the larger headers. Also the exhaust sounds pretty much the same compared to the BBK headers that were on there before.
 
#21 ·
Kooks 1-7/8" header install

I have my Kooks Lth 1 7/8 on my only dilemma is reaching the top two back bolts on the driver side I can't get them for nothing I raised and lowered the engine but when I lowered the engine the headers were getting stuck against the frame on the drivers side. Any advice?? Otherwise it looks like I will have to drop the k member
 
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