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2014 goes into gear but does not move!

7K views 47 replies 12 participants last post by  Rogan01 
#1 ·
Dear All,

I was driving my car (2014 GT w/Track Pack 36,154 miles) Sunday. All of a sudden it became very difficult to get the transmission into gear. I was able to get it home as I was only a few blocks away - mostly in 1st gear. When I got it home, I was able to get the shifter into gears but the car would only rev, not move, in any gear. Had it towed to the dealer yesterday morning. Service advisor just called me and said they would have to "drop the transmission."

Any guesses? Any help (or hope) would be greatly appreciated! Thank you!
 
#4 ·
It's most likely some sort of clutch failure. In my 05 I put a entire Stage 1 clutch assembly in it with a new flywheel for about $500 and a ton of back pain from working on the ground for 15 hours thanks to other problems. The dealership will tell you what exactly is wrong, I don't see how it would cost less than $1,000 to fix though, being a dealership and all. And yes, the transmission has to come out (drop) for them to get to the clutch. Clutch parts going out is just one of the maintenance things for manual transmissions. If you wanna enjoy the fun a manual, then you gotta pay for clutches, because unless you never have any fun in your car, they're gonna go out. Let us know what the dealership tells you and stuff. - May The Horse Be With You
 
#6 ·
Dear all. Thank you very much for the kind replies. Just fyi- the car is 100% stock, purchased new. My daily driver never raced or driven aggressively. Rarely seen the right side of 4500 rpm. It is my 5th G T. Just always been a Mustang guy - except for 3 mazda mx-5s sprinkled in : )

On the plus side, the service advisor has been great. Getting a rental for 5 days.

I will update with details as they become available.

I know it is just a car and have read about some transmission problems but can't help worry and feel kind of disappointed....

Anyway, thank you all again for your kind support and input!
 
#7 ·
Everything except the disk itself is covered under the 60,000 mile drivetrain warranty. Good luck.
 
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#8 ·
Update - Went to the dealer today to pick up the rental car I will have for 5 days. Still no update on the status or specific problem of my car. It was not in one of the bays - they said they had to move it out until they got more info (from Ford I guess...) Has been in since Monday at 7:00am.

I have a couple of ignorant questions:

1. When they say they need to "drop the transmission" - does that mean actually physically remove it from the car? Take it apart? This would be very concerning to me if it were done by a mechanic at the dealer that did not have a lot of experience with this - but maybe that is common...

2. What is the "disk" scott mentioned? Would it be easy to spot if this was the problem?

Really appreciate all your kind wishes and support. Will continue to update as I get more info. Many thanks!!!!!
 
#10 ·
Thank you very much!!!

Another dumb question...

If that is the case though, wouldn't they have to leave the car on the lift? Do they open it up (transmission)? When I was there this morning it was not on the lift in any of the bays. I was told they had to move it out. Guess since they can't figure out the issue they moved it out to work on "easier" jobs. Wonder if they dropped the transmission then put it back in... I know I only left it there Monday at 7:00am. Am I being too impatient as still no diagnosis?

I will update you all when I hear anything and really appreciate your kind support and answers. Means a great deal to me!!!!
 
#13 ·
Absolutely GREAT Responces Guys!!:grin: I want to personally THANK YOU ALL!!:wink:

THIS is Exactly why our AFM MEMBERS ARE 2nd To NONE!!....

Again guys, I just want to thank you for all you do for The Site
!!:smile::smile::smile:


Sean.
Dear Sean,

I agree 110%!!!! This site and its members/admins are the best! I have been a loyal member since 2007 and cannot put a price on the advice, help, support and feedback i have received. I also hope that I have been able to help others whenever possible and contribute in a positive way - even if it is just support or best wishes.

Just an update on my issue - I just called the dealership and although I had the car towed in Monday morning at 7am - they still have not looked at it. They told me they would look at it today. I will update all as soon as I hear anything to help anyone that may experience any similar problems. Fingers crossed : )

All the Best!

Kudos and many thanks to all!!!!
 
#15 ·
My early build 2011 GT is long ago out of warranty,I was a mechanic for 35 years,but now at 70 years old you could say I have lost interest in turning wrenches,I have found a great performance shop in my area,great $$ and excellent workmanship. The only time my Mustang sees a Ford dealer now, is for the recalls.This also might be an option the OP might want to look into.
 
#16 ·
Hello All - Wanted to update you based on a call from service advisor this morning.

I was to told that the problem was a broken "shift fork connector" (have no idea what this is)

Advisor said this was very rare and he had not seen it before on any Mustangs. Apparently the mechanic will have to open (or has already opened) the transmission to see what parts need to be replaced and order them. This results in the shifter not being able to engage any gears so it is in fact a powertrain issue and covered by warranty. Hope this helps someone in the future.

My concerns/questions are:

1. they will (I guess) have to open the transmission and replace this (these) parts. How serious is this effort? Not knowing much myself, it seems like open heart surgery : ) Would they not replace the transmission?

2. has anyone ever heard of this or experienced it? Does it make sense?

3. What could have caused this? Again, I drive very conservatively and never abuse the car.

Thank you all again for your kind feedback, advice and most of all support. Of course I will continue to update - I was told maybe repair by Monday at the earliest.

Many heartfelt thanks!!!!!
 
#17 ·
The MT82 shift forks are made out of plastic, usually the guys that have problems are the ones beating the crap outta their trannys and missing high speed shifts. You can search for broken MT82 shift forks ...

Since it's open I'd have em' install bronze forks, they're $15 each.

.
 
#18 ·
Update - well got a call from the service advisor this afternoon. Apparently the mechanic took a "real" look and it is not the shift fork after all. Bad news is it is clutch related. Disk is worn plus other issues I did not get or understand because I was kind of in shock. I am going there tomorrow morning to get the full technical list of problems in writing. Estimate was about $1400 parts and labor and not covered by warranty.

I will post the specifics as soon as I get the details tomorrow.

As I have said, I never raced or abuse the car as it is my daily driver and I am in my late 50s - even though people tell my I need to "get on it". I do have a long commute in mostly stop and go traffic to and from work. Rarely go over 4000 rpm. Still, hard to believe that this could happen (details to be documented tomorrow) after only 2 1/2 years and 36154 miles on a new car. I must be a really bad driver...

Thanks again to all for your great support. Much appreciated!
 
#19 ·
Update - well got a call from the service advisor this afternoon. Apparently the mechanic took a "real" look and it is not the shift fork after all. Bad news is it is clutch related. Disk is worn plus other issues I did not get or understand because I was kind of in shock. I am going there tomorrow morning to get the full technical list of problems in writing. Estimate was about $1400 parts and labor and not covered by warranty.

I will post the specifics as soon as I get the details tomorrow.

As I have said, I never raced or abuse the car as it is my daily driver and I am in my late 50s - even though people tell my I need to "get on it". I do have a long commute in mostly stop and go traffic to and from work. Rarely go over 4000 rpm. Still, hard to believe that this could happen (details to be documented tomorrow) after only 2 1/2 years and 36154 miles on a new car. I must be a really bad driver...

Thanks again to all for your great support. Much appreciated!
Check your local car clubs in your area, and see if there isn"t a trusted performance shop that they use and trust,might be able to save yourself some cash, and get a better clutch package other than the Ford parts, and less money. Just my thoughts.
 
#22 ·
If you need a new clutch assembly I would consider an aftermarket clutch assembly. I blew out my clutch(pressure plate assembly broke with torsion spring displacement) and the dealer had no issue with me putting an aftermarket/upgraded clutch and pressure plate. I had them install Centerforce Dual Friction Disc Clutch (Not a twin disk) with oem flywheel and oem slave cylinder and oem pilot bearing.
 
#23 ·
Yes, you can wear out a clutch in 37,000 miles in stop and go commuting. This is especially true if you regularly downshift a lot to slow the car down. If all you are doing is commuting, brake pads are far cheaper than a clutch job. Save the competition style shifting for the once in a while open curvy road. It'll still wear out the clutch, but it will last longer and be more fun.

Another item to watch for... Keep your foot off the clutch pedal unless you are actually shifting, in other words don't ride the clutch pedal in anticipation of a shift, ever. A lot of otherwise knowledgeable drivers ride the clutch pedal unconsciously while anticipating another shift coming up soon.
 
#24 · (Edited)
First of all want to thank everyone that has responded to me this week with advice, help and moral support. I can't express how valuable it has been!!

UPDATE - finally got a chance and went to the dealer today to see the service advisor that has been helping me. Great guy. He took me to see my car although they were very busy. It was up on a bay with its "guts" on the floor. The tranny guy does not work weekends.

Diagnosis is pressure plate, clutch disk, and flywheel need to be replaced. He had take taken pictures of the carnage and I did too - it cannot be unseen now - just joking about 50% : ) They do not consider this a power train issue so the parts and labor will be about $1400. And expected completion date is next Wednesday. The closest recommended independent shop is about 70 miles away and I am committed to the dealership now. I am lucky as they seem to be taking good care if me.

As I have said, car was purchased new at this dealer and has 36154 miles after 2.5 years. The only reason I think this could have happened is because I commute about 3 hours each day in mostly heavy stop and go traffic. Perhaps an automatic is best for me - or quit my job : )

Please any and all further thoughts, comments, feedback or recommendations would be much appreciated! Of course, I will continue to update this thread through resolution and repair as I hope it may help someone else.

Best wishes to all!

Apologies - I did not read the last few responses before posting this update but they are very helpful and appreciated : ) I will follow up on them - especially anything i could do regarding potential parts upgrades and whether this is or is not a power train issue...

Btw - thank you for your kind stop and go traffic driving tips Dana! They were very helpful. Btw 80% of my daily commute is 1st gear, maybe 2nd or 3rd occasionally, neutral, brake (repeat)... "literally" stop and go for 2 - 3 hours daily round trip. thanks again! Also, am in love with that puppy...
 
#26 ·
As I have said, car was purchased new at this dealer and has 36154 miles after 2.5 years. The only reason I think this could have happened is because I commute about 3 hours each day in mostly heavy stop and go traffic. Perhaps an automatic is best for me - or quit my job : )

Uh, yeah. If you are stuck commuting in low gears for that long every day then I would say we are pretty sure what caused the failure, and yes an automatic would be far better. HOWEVER, that being said I must give major KUDOS to you for rowing your own gears through that hell every day. >:)
 
#28 ·
You should only go to neutral while you are stopped, and then only if you want to when your leg gets tired. If you go to neutral while you are moving, you lose engine braking (drag). Engine braking doesn't cause clutch wear, but not having it costs brake pad wear.

Repeatedly shifting to lower gears for more engine braking while slowing down does cost clutch wear, especially if you are not very good at rev matching. The same thing goes for downshifting road race style for turns. Just go into the turns at a reasonable speed, brake sanely and downshift if needed on the other side once the road starts to straighten out. Of course this is a little like eating a mayo on wonder bread sammich, and you'll die a bored and frustrated old man.

Slow soft shifting for passenger comfort causes clutch wear too. It keeps the clutch slipping longer. Of course who needs a significant other teed off in the car. Personally I don't like it when she flails around for hand holds on interior panels as the g forces slam her around, she's broken things grasping before, including her pinky. :surprise:

Speaking of G force and passenger comfort, back many years ago my son and two of his friends were in my brand new 1988 5.0 LX Notch with me driving. Like most middle school boys, they kept harassing me to get on it. So, when traffic was zero, I left a light in a bit of a hurry. (very much of an understatement. Them little suckers were quick) I hit 2nd gear so hard one of the back seater's heads broke my rear window glass. Fortunately the boy wasn't hurt, but he has had a smile stuck on his face for 28 years now, and he drools a bit at times, and he loves his job collecting shopping carts down at the Win-Dixie.>:)
 
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#29 ·
Thank you very much Dana and all of you kind folks. Can't say how much I appreciate you support and feedback!

Will continue to update as soon as repair is completed next week and post pictures when I figure out how. I know there was a site where you could post a picture and it would give you a link...

Just fyi - I am not mechanically knowledgeable at all so please forgive my description. The advisor showed me the disk and all of the "black stuff" that came off. Was wondering if the the entire disk needs to be replaced or if the "black pad material" that was worn away can be put on the existing "disk".

Thanks all again! My primary reason for updates is I feel this thread and all your input and excellent feedback may help at least one person here.
 
#30 ·
Thank you very much Dana and all of you kind folks. Can't say how much I appreciate you support and feedback!

Will continue to update as soon as repair is completed next week and post pictures when I figure out how. I know there was a site where you could post a picture and it would give you a link...

Just fyi - I am not mechanically knowledgeable at all so please forgive my description. The advisor showed me the disk and all of the "black stuff" that came off. Was wondering if the the entire disk needs to be replaced or if the "black pad material" that was worn away can be put on the existing "disk".

Thanks all again!
Nope, the "Black Stuff" is the clutch friction material, much like the disk brake pads. It is permanently bonded and riveted to the clutch disk. The clutch disk must be replaced just as the brake pads with their bonded steel backer and pad material.

Once too much friction material wears off there are two spinning steel disks, the flywheel, and clutch disk, that once were separated by the friction material begin to rub together, Then these metal parts become damaged.

Rarely, but it happens, if a clutch disk becomes very worn, and already damaging the flywheel, heat can cause a catastrophic separation of the clutch disk and friction material. This happens sometimes without much warning. The loose pieces of friction material will wedge in between the clutch disk where there is remaining uneven friction material and the flywheel making it difficult or impossible to shift gears, because the clutch disk cannot be retracted far enough by the throw-out arm to get away from the loose pieces of friction material.

Warnings could be as subtle as a small shudder in the drive train as the car is up shifted to 2nd, or started off from a stop in first. This would be the clutch "chattering" due to too thin a layer of friction material for it to maintain a firm enough grip on the flywheel. Also, when shifting from 4th to the OD 5th gear under a good deal of throttle, a worn out clutch will slip significantly.
 
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#32 ·
Questions are only dumb when the answer is not learned. Of course, the answer needs to be accurate. There are many dumb answers, however. :grin: Especially on the internet.
 
#33 ·
I`m still trying to figure out how the "mechanic" went from diagnosing it as a clutch fork problem that was covered by warranty, to a messed up clutch that was not covered.
Was he looking at two different cars?
 
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#34 ·
That was most likely the mechanic's fault. As both an ex-mechanic AND ex-service advisor I have been on both sides of this. The mechanic most likely took what little info he had on the symptoms, and without actually looking at the vehicle gave a possible diagnosis based on symptoms, the age of the driver and driving style, mileage, etc. This was likely told to the service advisor so he had some sort of information to impart to the owner other than simply telling him it hadn't been looked at. Depending on the tech's experience this can be an advantage but as shown here will usually backfire and shouldn't be done unless he is very confident of his diagnosis.

Now, coming from the service advisor side he is to blame for pushing for a diagnosis from the tech so that he would have something to tell the owner. He put them both in a bad spot. It is my experience that the truth, good or bad is better than any sort of guess. He should have simply stated they hadn't completed a diagnosis on the vehicle and that to do so they would need tear-down authorized to complete the diagnosis.

I have been following this since the beginning. I was shocked by the shift fork diag offered up since tear-down hadn't been done. It sets up the situation to go bad as there are so many possible things it could be and they had next to no real information to base it off of. This is assuming the information came similarly as it did in his post. What should have occurred is that since the 3year 36k was out, the advisor should have requested some costs for diagnosis up front to cover the techs removal of the transmission and inspection. Given that it is a manual transmission, the possibility of no warranty coverage is just too great to risk having no diag costs assumed by the owner. Now, the owner is better prepared mentally for costs that might incur, but also the dealership has in writing a specified dollar amount to pay for the tech's time.
The service advisor should have prepared the owner for the fact the issue may take some time to properly diagnose, and kept in better contact about the shop schedule and his vehicle's place in line for diagnosis. Then he wouldn't feel the need to jump to any sort of diagnosis to cover his ass. And the best part in this scenario is that if the repair is not covered, repair costs are already expected by the owner. But if it does turn out to be covered, the owner is ecstatic about having to incur no charges. It's much better than assuming no charges and then being slapped in the face with a monster repair estimate you had no idea to expect. And it is the honest, upfront way to properly take care of the owner.

The problem is that service advisors do take a daily beating by owners upset at "whatever". It may not even have to do with their car, or have anything to do with them, they just happen to be in front of the owner and they become the vent for the owners frustration. This can make the best advisors gun shy about giving bad news or even the idea of it, so they try creative ways of dancing around the issue. In the end this does nobody any good. So next time you do need repairs and have to work with a service advisor, be upfront about wanting the truth, good or bad. But treat them with respect please.
 
#36 ·
Never as a final diagnosis, but as a stopgap until final diagnosis occurs. Again, it happens but shouldn't. As for diagnostic costs, you only authorize "up to" a certain time and cost factor, i.e 1 hour for $80 as you cited. But if the diagnosis only takes 1/2 hour then most reputable shops will only charge that. In your case I find it hard to account for that diagnosis based on the information provided. But certain drive tests per factory parameters or tsb's COULD diagnose something difficult such as a torque converter as opposed to internal transmission repair. And those tests could take quite a bit of time. But again, without knowing more specifics, other side, etc I cannot say in your case. There are always the bad apples that will try to take advantage, but most are honest and hardworking so give them the benefit of the doubt.
 
#37 ·
What would happen if they use an educated guess and replace a part and it turns out that that wasn't the problem after all? I don't imagine they'd refund the customer any money on the original job and they would probably charge another "diagnostic" fee to find the real issue, correct? Getting service done at a dealer is always frustrating and overpriced it seems. It feels kinda like going to a fast food restaurant. When I called to make an appointment I called on Monday and they said Wednesday was the next "transmission appointment" and to bring it in at 7am. So I do and when I get there there are people waiting to get in so I guess everyone had a 7am appointment. I'm not even sure that they looked at my car really since I wasn't there. But I kinda think they they had a "diagnosis" before they even looked at it. Before I left the service advisor was like is it doing this, this and this? I said yes to some of his questions and he was like oh ok and he had this "oh ahh I know" look on his face. He went back in and called called a tech and then said, "ok we'll let you know." Another question, why wouldn't they try the service bulletin? I would've rather paid them the $130 for re-flashing the ecu and it not working than paying $80 for nothing at all. Do you think that they really expected me to say oh ok to the $3,300 or do you think that they were banking on making an easy $80 that day? But I guess with stuff like transistors you don't really know what's going on until they're torn apart. So that's where the gamble lies. If a guy goes in thinking that it a repair will be covered under the powertrain warranty and it turns out not the case, the customer won't know until they already owe $1k or whatever in labor charges. But by that time it's too late to shop around to try and find a better deal because the car is already in pieces.
I also hate that shops won't warranty their labor if you don't by the part from them but that's a whole other rant.
 
#38 ·
Again, it comes down to finding a shop you trust, which it sounds like you have issues with. But again, my post wasn't meant to hijack this thread and I can't speak to any specific situation of yours as I don't know all the facts. I only hope the owner of the 2014 with the clutch problem gets it resolved.
 
#40 ·
late to the party....if you go elsewhere to have it fixed (as suggested) the problem is you'll still have to pay for diagnosis. OP, although it sux that much stop & go is hard on clutch assys. Don't beat yourself (or Ford ) up. I will suggest if your commute is like that to next time consider Auto.

Mud
 
#41 ·
late to the party....if you go elsewhere to have it fixed (as suggested) the problem is you'll still have to pay for diagnosis. OP, although it sux that much stop & go is hard on clutch assys. Don't beat yourself (or Ford ) up. I will suggest if your commute is like that to next time conside
Mud


I don't think he can take it anywhere else since it's torn apart. I'd blame ford for the bad clutch though, not so much the commute. 37k miles is pretty crappy to have a clutch go out in. I'm sure there are lots of oem clutches out there with 100k miles making crappy commutes.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#42 · (Edited)
Update - well, picked up the car yesterday. (Live in south Florida so hunkered down for hurricane matthew.)

Total cost was about $565 for clutch assembly and 755 for labor. Took it for a brief test drive and drive home. Notice the clutch pedal seems quite "softer" especially during the last third of depressing. They told me this was normal. Any experience with this?

Btw - was told this is definitely not covered by warranty. They did give me a free rental for 8 days and I felt they treated me well overall.


Thanks to all of you for your kind past feedback and support during this time and please let me know your thoughts, feedback, etc on the clutch feel and also feel free to ask me any questions. Greatly appreciated! Hoping this thread helps - lots of good input and discussion.

To all my fellow friends and members in Florida and south east coast - wishing you and your families are and remain safe!!!
 
#43 ·
Update - well, picked up the car yesterday. (Live in south Florida so hunkered down for hurricane matthew.)

Total cost was about $565 for clutch assembly and 755 for labor. Took it for a brief test drive and drive home. Notice the clutch pedal seems quite "softer" especially during the last third of depressing. They told me this was normal. Any experience with this?

Btw - was told this is definitely not covered by warranty. They did give me a free rental for 8 days and I felt they treated me well overall.


Thanks to all of you for your kind past feedback and support during this time and please let me know your thoughts, feedback, etc on the clutch feel and also feel free to ask me any questions. Greatly appreciated! Hoping this thread helps - lots of good input and discussion.

To all my fellow friends in Florida and south east coast - wishing you and your families are safe!!!

The soft clutch pedal is likely from air still in the line, It'll work it's way out.

As for the original issue, I'd guess the slave went out. I infrequently drive the wife's '14 but we went to ZMAX Drag's a few weeks ago I noticed the clutch pedal on that thing was getting progressively harder as I moved through stop n' go traffic.

Another reason to go automatic ...


.
 
#46 ·
Update- drove around town this weekend after clutch assembly replacement. Everything seemed ok and clutch seemed back to normal feel.


Was driving this morning and was making a low speed left hand turn shifting into second when I heard a momentary sound like "gears grinding." Drove around for awhile after but did not hear again. Returning to normal commute tomorrow.

Have a 2 year warranty on this but maybe the tech did not perfect install. I will keep all updated but if course any insight, guesses, advice are appreciated. Maybe this is normal but I must say I am concerned that the job was not done 100%. Option is to return to the dealer but will likely not be able to replicicate the sound. Fyi - happened when "cold" - 86 degrees in FLA. Thank to all!
 
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