Approximately 3 weeks ago my car started making a clunking noise. It turned out that my top red polyurethane bushing for my steeda motor mounts had failed. I should have originally installed the black bushing on the top of the passenger side and bottom of the driver side because I used to occasionally race my car down the 1/8th mile in the previous couple years and I have attended about 3-4 road course events.
I replaced the top bushing with the black one and then a week ago I heard some clunking again. Had the car towed home and inspected the motor mounts and found there was damage to both the top and bottom driver side bushings. So I replaced both of those bushings with 2 new black ones that Steeda provided to me free of charge. The car seemed to be back to normal and I drove it for around 20 miles.
Then I was on the interstate going about 60 mph and I started experiences really strange vibrations and a noise. I hit a dip in the road and the noise and vibration went away for about a mile or so and then the vibration and noise redeveloped. If I gave the car more gas in 5th and 6th gear the vibration was so bad my rear view mirror started shaking violently. So I got of the interstate and limped the car to where I needed to get my daughter on time. I heard intermittent clunking similar to when the motor mount bushings were failing. I had my buddy bring my ramps, jacks, and tools and inspected the motor mount bushings and they appeared to be fine and I could not find the source of clunking. I disassembled the driver side once more to make sure all was well and found nothing. So I drove the car home and the clunking did not reappear. When I got home I took the passenger side mount out and put a new red bushing on the bottom and reinstalled. I thought all was well again and then I thought I heard my exhaust rattling and contacting the bottom of the car. I readjusted the passenger side overaxle pipe to get a little more clearance.
Again I thought I had solved my problem but when I left to go to work I am now hearing more of a clicking/pinging sound and occasional clunking. I put the car up in the air again and when I turn the rear wheels I hear the same pinging sound. I also started the car and put it in gear and was able to get the clunking noise again with the pinging sound also. When I get underneath the car and rotate the driveshaft back and forth it makes a pinging sound as if something is loose in the driveshaft near the end by the CV joint. This is an aftermarket 3.5" diameter one piece aluminum driveshaft rated for 900 hp. From day one I would experience a slight single ting sound when first movement in reverse. I believed that was normal. Has anybody else ran into a similar problem? Does anyone know how the CV joint is attached to the 3.5" diameter aluminum shaft? I am guessing there is a female spline welded to the AL shaft and the CV joint has a male shaft inserted within and held with split rings.
I am going to reinstall my OEM 2 piece shaft Friday night hoping that solves the problem. If not then I guess I better check the transmission mount. Am I correct to assume that I don't need to adjust my pinion angle after installing the two piece shaft. I have the pinion angle set at -1 degrees with the one piece shaft in accordance with BMR recommendations.
I replaced the top bushing with the black one and then a week ago I heard some clunking again. Had the car towed home and inspected the motor mounts and found there was damage to both the top and bottom driver side bushings. So I replaced both of those bushings with 2 new black ones that Steeda provided to me free of charge. The car seemed to be back to normal and I drove it for around 20 miles.
Then I was on the interstate going about 60 mph and I started experiences really strange vibrations and a noise. I hit a dip in the road and the noise and vibration went away for about a mile or so and then the vibration and noise redeveloped. If I gave the car more gas in 5th and 6th gear the vibration was so bad my rear view mirror started shaking violently. So I got of the interstate and limped the car to where I needed to get my daughter on time. I heard intermittent clunking similar to when the motor mount bushings were failing. I had my buddy bring my ramps, jacks, and tools and inspected the motor mount bushings and they appeared to be fine and I could not find the source of clunking. I disassembled the driver side once more to make sure all was well and found nothing. So I drove the car home and the clunking did not reappear. When I got home I took the passenger side mount out and put a new red bushing on the bottom and reinstalled. I thought all was well again and then I thought I heard my exhaust rattling and contacting the bottom of the car. I readjusted the passenger side overaxle pipe to get a little more clearance.
Again I thought I had solved my problem but when I left to go to work I am now hearing more of a clicking/pinging sound and occasional clunking. I put the car up in the air again and when I turn the rear wheels I hear the same pinging sound. I also started the car and put it in gear and was able to get the clunking noise again with the pinging sound also. When I get underneath the car and rotate the driveshaft back and forth it makes a pinging sound as if something is loose in the driveshaft near the end by the CV joint. This is an aftermarket 3.5" diameter one piece aluminum driveshaft rated for 900 hp. From day one I would experience a slight single ting sound when first movement in reverse. I believed that was normal. Has anybody else ran into a similar problem? Does anyone know how the CV joint is attached to the 3.5" diameter aluminum shaft? I am guessing there is a female spline welded to the AL shaft and the CV joint has a male shaft inserted within and held with split rings.
I am going to reinstall my OEM 2 piece shaft Friday night hoping that solves the problem. If not then I guess I better check the transmission mount. Am I correct to assume that I don't need to adjust my pinion angle after installing the two piece shaft. I have the pinion angle set at -1 degrees with the one piece shaft in accordance with BMR recommendations.