How to seal an exhaust leak? - Ford Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-30-2011 Thread Starter
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How to seal an exhaust leak?

Hey guys,

I just finished installing my custom x-pipe and performing a muffler delete on my '11 GT (will post pictures on a new thread when I get a chance). Everything looks/sounds great except for a leak on the drivers side where the over-axel pipe meets the new tail pipe. I reused the stock clamps and it seems like I can't get the pipes positioned to have the clamp seal properly. I know the best course of action would be to remake a new tailpipe but I live in missouri and made these pipes at my dads shop this weekend in Chicago which is the only access I have to the tools needed (mainly the bender).

So my question to you all is this. Is there some type of sealant like a muffler cement that I could use to plug up the leak on the clamp until I get a chance to get back to Chicago (probably won't be able to get the stang back til next summer)? It will be a temporary fix until I can make a new pipe but it needs to last at least 6-8 months.

Thanks in advance.

Kevin
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-30-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CzechOh View Post
Hey guys,

I just finished installing my custom x-pipe and performing a muffler delete on my '11 GT (will post pictures on a new thread when I get a chance). Everything looks/sounds great except for a leak on the drivers side where the over-axel pipe meets the new tail pipe. I reused the stock clamps and it seems like I can't get the pipes positioned to have the clamp seal properly. I know the best course of action would be to remake a new tailpipe but I live in missouri and made these pipes at my dads shop this weekend in Chicago which is the only access I have to the tools needed (mainly the bender).

So my question to you all is this. Is there some type of sealant like a muffler cement that I could use to plug up the leak on the clamp until I get a chance to get back to Chicago (probably won't be able to get the stang back til next summer)? It will be a temporary fix until I can make a new pipe but it needs to last at least 6-8 months.

Thanks in advance.

Kevin
Make sure you are happy with the setup and alignment. Then go to a local muffler shop and get the joints welded. Only full proof way to get rid of pesky leaks.

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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-30-2011
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So, it's leaking at the ball socket?

Take it all loose and tighten that clamp down first as you re-tighten the clamps.

If that doesn't fix it then take the ball socket joint back apart and put some ultra hi-temp (copper color) silicone on the mating surfaces and put it back together and let it sit for about an hour before you fire it up.

If neither of those cures it then you are probably looking at needing pro help.
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-30-2011
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just go to the autopart store and tell them you need

Fast foward to about 2 minutes to see the sealant...
Changing an exhaust - YouTube

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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-30-2011
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Make sure your clamps are TIGHT 65ft lbs.

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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-30-2011
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Don't put that copper crap on there... You will absolutely hate it later in life…

Remove the clamps from the x pipe to the intermediate pipe. (Torca® coupler (2 required))

Make sure your x-pipe is at the proper angle under the car… Snug clamps attaching X-pipe to Catalytic converter assembly… Snug not tight, all will have to be adjusted later to proper alignment and body angle…

Make sure the ball joint on the muffler assembly connecting to the intermediate pipe is in correct, make this clamp snug, not tight…

Use a jack to raise the x-pipe if the angle of the intermediate pipe to the Catalytic converter assembly is not a straight line at connection, you might have to lower the x-pipe as well to make the connection straight…

Tighten clamps to 22lbs of torque, X-pipe to Catalytic converter assembly…

Tighten Torca® coupler to 35lbs of torque, X-pipe to intermediate pipe …

Adjust muffler to center of rear fascia openings, you may have to bend the hangers attached to the muffler to center exhaust opening to center…

Tighten clamps to 22lbs of torque, intermediate pipe to muffler pipe…

You should not have any leaks unless one of the ball joints is damaged or not correctly seated, period...
Attached Files
File Type: pdf 2012ExhaustPdf[1].pdf (1.94 MB, 135 views)

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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-30-2011 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnRichard View Post
Don't put that copper crap on there... You will absolutely hate it later in life…

Remove the clamps from the x pipe to the intermediate pipe. (Torca® coupler (2 required))

Make sure your x-pipe is at the proper angle under the car… Snug clamps attaching X-pipe to Catalytic converter assembly… Snug not tight, all will have to be adjusted later to proper alignment and body angle…

Make sure the ball joint on the muffler assembly connecting to the intermediate pipe is in correct, make this clamp snug, not tight…

Use a jack to raise the x-pipe if the angle of the intermediate pipe to the Catalytic converter assembly is not a straight line at connection, you might have to lower the x-pipe as well to make the connection straight…

Tighten clamps to 22lbs of torque, X-pipe to Catalytic converter assembly…

Tighten Torca® coupler to 35lbs of torque, X-pipe to intermediate pipe …

Adjust muffler to center of rear fascia openings, you may have to bend the hangers attached to the muffler to center exhaust opening to center…

Tighten clamps to 22lbs of torque, intermediate pipe to muffler pipe…

You should not have any leaks unless one of the ball joints is damaged or not correctly seated, period...
Thanks so much for the exact specs! That's what I'm going to try to do, but not having a lift down here will make that difficult, I'll let you all know what happens!

Thanks again!
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-30-2011
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Bubble Gum is a great sealant too. I have seen it done in movies a lot of times.
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-30-2011
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and on PIMP MY RIDE one guy's car was held together, literally by gum

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