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2011-2014 Mustang Talk Forum

2011-2014 Talk | 2011-2014 GT | 2011-2014 V6 | 2005-2010 Talk | 2005-2010 GT | 2005-2010 V6 | Shelby GT500 | Mustang Tech 
 

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Unread 01-28-2013   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scottmach View Post
BMR. Works flawlessly and is very easy to install.
I tried installing the BMR bar on my '13 PP yesterday and could not for the life of me loosen the bolts on the stock bar. Used Kroil, then both a box-end wrench and a breaker bar with socket. I notice the stock setup uses lock nuts. Are they also using a thread locker? Not enough room to try an jmpact wrench.
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Unread 01-28-2013   #17 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tym View Post
I tried installing the BMR bar on my '13 PP yesterday and could not for the life of me loosen the bolts on the stock bar. Used Kroil, then both a box-end wrench and a breaker bar with socket. I notice the stock setup uses lock nuts. Are they also using a thread locker? Not enough room to try an jmpact wrench.
It makes it more difficult when not working on a lift as it's tough to get leverage on the ground. here's a trick that might work. Instead of using a breaker bar use the handle on a jack like a breaker bar. That should break it loose. Yes thread locker was used.
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Unread 01-28-2013   #18 (permalink)
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Are they using the equivalent of Loctite Blue, that can be broken with hand tools, or something that requires heat/solvent to loosen?

I was applying a fair amount of torque but didn't want to overdo it and risk snapping off a bolt head.
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Unread 01-28-2013   #19 (permalink)
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No heat should be needed. You should be able to do it with hand tools.
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Unread 01-28-2013   #20 (permalink)
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^ Thanks. Guess I just need to get more torque on it. Seemed odd that my breaker bar was flexing without the bolt budging, though.

I also was attempting this with the car on the ground and the suspension loaded, but I don't see how this could affect anything (apart from making it more cramped for me underneath).
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Unread 01-28-2013   #21 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tym View Post
^ Thanks. Guess I just need to get more torque on it. Seemed odd that my breaker bar was flexing without the bolt budging, though.

I also was attempting this with the car on the ground and the suspension loaded, but I don't see how this could affect anything (apart from making it more cramped for me underneath).
get a breaker bar...leverage is your friend!!!

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Unread 01-28-2013   #22 (permalink)
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^ I did! Wouldn't budge. I might try to find a longer one.
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Unread 01-29-2013   #23 (permalink)
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I know it's a little more expensive than a PHB but might I suggest this as an alternative!

Strano Performance Parts - Part Details

Quote:
Originally Posted by tym View Post
^ I did! Wouldn't budge. I might try to find a longer one.
I use one of the sections of the handle used for my old harbor freight aluminum floor jack. Fits over this, which I use for stubborn bolts

Amazon.com: Craftsman 9-44202 1/2-Inch Drive 18-Inch Flex Handle: Home Improvement
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Unread 01-29-2013   #24 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fastredponycar View Post
I know it's a little more expensive than a PHB but might I suggest this as an alternative!

Strano Performance Parts - Part Details



I use one of the sections of the handle used for my old harbor freight aluminum floor jack. Fits over this, which I use for stubborn bolts

Amazon.com: Craftsman 9-44202 1/2-Inch Drive 18-Inch Flex Handle: Home Improvement
If you're gonna try a watts, just go ahead and spend the money on a Whiteline unit. I don't like the the Fays2 clamps to the axle tubes myself.

Remember to shop smart. Shop S-Mart.
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Unread 01-29-2013   #25 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PW_Pony View Post
If you're gonna try a watts, just go ahead and spend the money on a Whiteline unit. I don't like the the Fays2 clamps to the axle tubes myself.

Remember to shop smart. Shop S-Mart.
The white line is a good looking piece but I'd have to see some sort of proof that it offers superior performance over the Fayes to justify that difference in price.

Everyone who has the Fayes has nothing but rave reviews and solid/tangible results both on the street and the track.
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Unread 01-29-2013   #26 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fastredponycar View Post
The white line is a good looking piece but I'd have to see some sort of proof that it offers superior performance over the Fayes to justify that difference in price.

Everyone who has the Fayes has nothing but rave reviews and solid/tangible results both on the street and the track.
I just feel more comfortable the the whiteline replaces and bolts to the diff. Axle tubes aren't welded so I'm iffy on the Fays. I was looking at the Fays2 at first, but ultimately I'm drawn to the Whiteline. Also, if you're looking at the Fays look at Shelby's website. They offer a slightly modified version for the same price as the regular Fays2.

Remember to shop smart. Shop S-Mart.
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Unread 02-03-2013   #27 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tym View Post
^ I did! Wouldn't budge. I might try to find a longer one.
OK, success with an 18" breaker bar. Took some work to get the bar in place; the bushings were a bit wider than the brackets and needed some tapping to get into place. Definitely a challenge re-torquing the bolts with the car on the ground and it snowing on me! LOL.
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Unread 02-03-2013   #28 (permalink)
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BMR hands down, no contest. The zerk fittings make all the difference!
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Unread 02-07-2013   #29 (permalink)
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Definitely the UPR Pro Street bar with the grease fittings:

05-13 Ford Mustang Street Double Adjustable Pan Hard Bar | UPRProducts.com
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Unread 02-07-2013   #30 (permalink)
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Newbie question, how does one adjust the panhard bar or is this left up to the alignment shop?
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