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Need opinion on wheels

5K views 18 replies 16 participants last post by  Siber Express 
#1 ·
I have a 2011 mustang GT - Sterling Grey with red RTR stripes. I've been agonizing over wheels for well over a month now… lol. I do know I want concaved and I am teetering between 19 or 20 inch but it's a big jump in cost and the wife already yells daily about my MOD addiction. I hope she doesn't ask me to make a choice between her or the car… I surely will miss her.

I know I want a concaved wheel and like all three of these and they are somewhat similar in price. What do you guys think?

Vertini Dynasty

TSW Bathurst

KMC 685 District



My ride:

 
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#2 ·
I like pic #2 but in a satin or brushed finish not a fan of an all BLACK wheel. IMO A all black wheel looks dirty. but like I said IMO

Any way you could do what I did I have 18x10 rear 17x8 front why not do the same with 19x9 or 9.5 front and 20x10 or 11 rear
Just an idea

Here's hoping your wife doesn't make you choose or gets too mad at you for your descion
 
#6 ·
There is a lot to consider when getting new/different wheels. Looks certainly is part of it, but there is lot more to consider. Cast or forged? Cost? Size? Weight? Quality of manufacture? Offset/backspacing? Forgings are generally stronger and more expensive than castings. Cost is all over the place. Some overseas sourced wheels are quite inexpensive with quality that can range from good/OK to not on my car. USA/European made forgings suitable for real racing can put a real dent in your bank account. In general bigger wheels are heavier than smaller ones but not always. Bigger wheels will require a lower aspect ratio/shorter sidewall in order to keep the same overall diameter. This is good for sharper steering response, not so good for everyday ride quality. Weight matters and light is good, but truly high quality lightweight wheels tend to be expensive. As for quality, how good is good enough? In a worst case scenario a poor quality wheel could actually break and possibly cause a catastrophic accident, less serious, but still troubling is a wheel that is slightly out of round or true or a bit out of balance. Offset or backspace [ which is easier to measure ] is more important than many people seem to realize. When trying to fit the widest possible wheels to a car sometimes we have to accept a less than optimal offset in order to get everything to clear. Most of the time we are looking for wider, but not necessarily the widest possible so it pays to try to get a wheel with optimal backspace. So what's optimal? IMO minimizing the scrub radius is a generally good idea. OEM wheels are usually pretty good in this respect since the factory engineers go to some effort here. If you're unfamiliar with the term scrub radius it can be described as the distance between a line drawn through the upper and lower ball joints [ upper strut mount & lower ball joint in our case ] to the ground and one drawn through the centerline of the wheel to the ground. Moving the centerline of the wheel outward from the center of the car increases the scrub radius. Increasing the scrub radius does do one good thing and several undesirable ones. The good news is that it widens the front track which reduces weight transfer. The bad is that it increases the scrubbing or dragging of the tire in a corner. Rolling freely is better than scrubbing. Next it decreases the wheel rate since we are now applying more leverage to the springs. Spring rate remains the same. In effect the springs act as if they were weaker. Next it increases the tendency of the car to tramline [ follow rain grooves on the highway ] . Obviously this isn't much of a factor on a race track, but it certainly can be on some public roads. Bumps or irregularities in the pavement will also be transmitted back through the steering more forcefully. Sometimes this can feel something like bump steer which is also undesirable. Another thing to consider when you move the wheels outward is that the tires are more likely to pick up road debris and throw it up on the lower part of the front fenders, so you may want to get splash guards if you don't already have them. So if you're thinking about new wheels keep these things in mind. I have a base '14 GT manual and I was less than thrilled with the standard GT 18x8 wheels it came with. I bought a set of Boss 302 19x9 wheels for it from my local Ford Racing dealer who was happy to match internet pricing. I had to pay Il. sales tax, but shipping was free to my door. These wheels are a bit heavier than I would prefer, but they are OEM quality, very reasonable in price and the backspace is correct. They will take a decent size tire and they look a lot better on an Ingot Silver car than the original wheels too.
 
#7 ·
Definitely the 3rd pic!!!
 
#8 ·
Go on eBay look up these 3 sellers. They sell sets of tires and rims from previous models or extra inventory at half off. I got a set for 1200 that would have gone for 3200.
1 aftermarketpros they sell returns and overstock from Internet sellers
2. Roushperformance they sell sets of new tires from upgrades and also special overstock on unique mustangs. I got mine TMI here
3. Shelbyauctions
God luck and these guys sell a lot of if aftermarket parts like clutch sets, gears axle backs etc at half off. If you are patient you can get what you need by waiting
Tom
I did my entire suspension this way and saved alot
 
#9 ·
The gunmetal finish of the 2010 GT500 factory wheels would look great on your grey GT. Either 18" cast or 19" forged OEM, or knockoffs abound such as those on AM, etc...
 
#13 ·
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