Battery Draining Overnight - Ford Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 3 Weeks Ago Thread Starter
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Battery Draining Overnight

I have a 2012 v6 stang, but experiencing an issue with the battery draining overnight. Almost to the point where it won't crank up. It could be the parasitic power drain.

Using a multimeter the voltage drops at night from about 12.65 volts to 12.40 volts.

I had a new Interstate battery installed only 7 months ago, and I have been to a couple of shops who told me the battery and alternator tested fine.

I do have a custom radio, a Pioneer AVH-W4400NEX and the Maestro component to link it to the computer. I thought this may be the issue so I pulled fuse 39 Radio/Navigation 20 Amps. But the next day same issue with Battery drain.

I have also pulled fuse 3 SYNC 15 Amps but that made no difference as well.

I don't see any internal or external lights on. One thing is when I got the new Battery it wasn't at Ford so I doubt they did the BCM Reset, can that cause the Battery to drain? Any other ideas?

Thanks.

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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 3 Weeks Ago
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The BCM doesn't per se need to be reset since when the replaced the battery it was unhooked and more than likely reset itself. There is no Battery Management System until the 2015 M/Y.
Might just have to pull fuses until it doesn't drop.


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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 3 Weeks Ago Thread Starter
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If I were to disconnect both cables from the battery and test the volts it should be 12.65 in the morning. Otherwise it actually could be a battery issue?
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Originally Posted by slickride View Post
If I were to disconnect both cables from the battery and test the volts it should be 12.65 in the morning. Otherwise it actually could be a battery issue?
I would try that, I usually use a modified test light ( I put an interior courtesy lamp in it) pull off the positive cable and connect the test light in between the battery and cable. make sure everything is off, if you have a lit up test light bulb then you can start pulling fuses to see what is drawing power. I use the courtesy light bulb because it takes 12v to light it when a regular test light will pick up minor voltage that is normal in the cars computer system, that way you're not chasing a ghost


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hmmmm . . . isn't 12.65 already on the low side for a fully charged battery? I don't recall the number but I want to say it should be something like 13? somebody on here probably knows, or Google could find it . . .

but yeah the disconnected battery overnight test is a simple way to check it, or the test light like my89 suggested

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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 3 Weeks Ago
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hmmmm . . . isn't 12.65 already on the low side for a fully charged battery? I don't recall the number but I want to say it should be something like 13? somebody on here probably knows, or Google could find it . . .

but yeah the disconnected battery overnight test is a simple way to check it, or the test light like my89 suggested
I thought of that also Bert, 12.6 when the car is off is considered charged.

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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 3 Weeks Ago Thread Starter
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So I used the multimeter to do the parasitic drain test, setting it on Amps and connecting to the negative terminal and cable. I got a drain of 0.73 Amps when engine is off. It should be 0.05 or lower.

I pulled each of the small fuses in the fuse box under the hood but it made no difference. I did not have time to pull every fuse on the passenger side fuse box yet.

Do I have any missing fuses in this pic? There are no fuses in 26 or 27, no problem since no HID lights?

26 20A** Left high intensity discharge headlamp relay
27 20A** Right high intensity discharge headlamp relay
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 3 Weeks Ago Thread Starter
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I pulled more fuses in the passenger side fuse box. Pulling Fuse 26 made the Amps drop to 0.13, Or only 130 milliamps. That's about 600 milliamps Less.

The manuals says: Fuse 26: Cluster (Battery) - 10 amps.

Any reason why this would be drawing about 600 milliamps? What should I do now?
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 1 Week Ago Thread Starter
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slickride

I am back from the Ford dealer. The mechanic said the draw is within the specs. There is nothing to fix. They also tested the battery and found no issue.

He also told me I was not waiting long enough before measuring the Amps with the multimeter.

So, tonight I am retesting, giving it much longer, and I only see 0.025 Amps. Which is perfectly fine.

Now I don't understand why my battery voltage would drop down to about 12.40 volts ??
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Let the fully charged battery sit overnight not connected to anything and see if the volts drop.

I've found in the past when I had strange problems with a battery it was because the cable terminal ends and/or the battery lugs had some corrosion on them. Cleaning both the cables and lugs with a battery brush solved the issue.

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