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post #1 of 59 (permalink) Old 01-04-2013 Thread Starter
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Question New Mustang V6 model

Are there any known problems yet known with this new car from 2011 to current? i.e Mustang GT 5.0 with 6 spd. manual made in China problems?

When I test drove a new 2013 Mustang GT with 5.0 Coyote 32 valve engine with 6 spd. (no trac pac) with 3.31 rear end I could feel the stiffness in suspension.

Does V-6 model ride comfortable and how does it handle the bumpy roads as far as isolation your body getting beat up?

Does the V-6 Mustang really get 30 MPG??

With the V-6 model is the manual still the preferred choice of transmission with less problems than automatic trans?


Is this V-6 Mustang really faster than a V-8 1988 Mustang GT 5.0 Fox body with 5 spd. with 3.55 rear end?
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post #2 of 59 (permalink) Old 01-04-2013
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Are there any known problems yet known with this new car from 2011 to current? i.e Mustang GT 5.0 with 6 spd. manual made in China problems?

You will want to check the TSB's for this car. I think there is a list on this forum. Some known problems, but not confirmed by Ford are the rusty, junky, two piece driveshaft, adaptive shifting making the A/T become sluggish, and difficult/grinding shifts with the MT82 in certain temps.

Does V-6 model ride comfortable and how does it handle the bumpy roads as far as isolation your body getting beat up?

The base v-6 model with 17" tires rides fairly well. Suspension wise, there is a bit of body roll around corners and the shocks are very stiff. If you hit a speed bump or large bump in the road, your shocks will clunk down alarmingly hard. Also, the rear end needs a little weight or it can become squirrely (without spare tire).Otherwise, a very comfortable car to drive, even on terrible roads.

Does the V-6 Mustang really get 30 MPG??

With 2.73 gears and 17" Low rolling resistance tires, I and most other members got 30-35 mpg at 60-70 mph on a flat interstate with an Auto. Can't speak for the manual. I now have 19" rims and HTRZIII 245/45/19 tires and can't seem to break 30 on the highway.

With the V-6 model is the manual still the preferred choice of transmission with less problems than automatic <acronym title="transmission"><acronym title="transmission"><acronym title="transmission"><acronym title="transmission">trans</acronym></acronym></acronym></acronym>?

If problem free is what you're after, I think an auto is the correct choice in almost all cars. I've never heard of any A/T issues in these cars. The only complaints you will hear from A/T drivers is about the adaptive shifting, which makes the car shift sluggishly if you don't drive aggressively. (can be remedied with a tune and pulling the fuse for a few minutes) I hear tons of bothersome issues about the M/T though.

Is this V-6 Mustang really faster than a V-8 1988 Mustang GT 5.0 Fox body with 5 spd. with 3.55 rear end?

This v6 mustang is rated 305bhp/280 ft-lb, which translates to I'd guess on average 260/240 at the wheels from all the dynos ive seen. I have no clue what the '88 is rated at, but I've seen the 3.7 stock take down any GT up to the new 5.0 with a decent driver, so my guess is yes. These cars can run high 13's stock as far as I know and can break into the 12's with some bolt-ons and experience. Know that you can get 3.31 gears in this car, which would also even the playing field.

Current Mods: 19x8.5 Charcoal AMR Rims, Bama Tune 93H, Airaid CAI, FRPP Sport Axle Backs, FRPP 3.73 gears, Boss/CS/GT500 Rear Diffuser, GT500 Rear Spoiler, GT500 Mud Guards, Raxiom Reverse/License LED Lights, OEM Take off Black Charcoal Leather, GT500 Steering Wheel, Auto Headlights, Chrome 3.7 Badges, Quarter Window Louvers, Dark Matter Tint

Future Mods: Matte black GT500 Stripe, Black Billet Grilles, Stillen Front Chin Spoiler, Roush Side Splitters, Painted Mirror Caps
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post #3 of 59 (permalink) Old 01-04-2013
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After looking up the specs on the '88, do note that car will probably feel faster at first. It's rated at 300 Tq at ~3k RPM where the new v6 is rated at 280 tq at ~4250 RPM. With the 3.55 gears, it will most likely get off the line faster than a 3.31 or especially a 2.73 v6 mustang. However, the v6 will quickly, and I mean quickly overtake it.

Here's a video of a '92 GT 5.0 5 speed with 3.55 gears and he does a 1/4 mile ET of 15.16 at 94 mph. I've never heard of a 3.7L taking that long, even with the worst driving conditions and 2.73 gears...

1992 Mustang 5.0L 5spd bone stock 3.55 gears 15.16@94mph - YouTube

Current Mods: 19x8.5 Charcoal AMR Rims, Bama Tune 93H, Airaid CAI, FRPP Sport Axle Backs, FRPP 3.73 gears, Boss/CS/GT500 Rear Diffuser, GT500 Rear Spoiler, GT500 Mud Guards, Raxiom Reverse/License LED Lights, OEM Take off Black Charcoal Leather, GT500 Steering Wheel, Auto Headlights, Chrome 3.7 Badges, Quarter Window Louvers, Dark Matter Tint

Future Mods: Matte black GT500 Stripe, Black Billet Grilles, Stillen Front Chin Spoiler, Roush Side Splitters, Painted Mirror Caps
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post #4 of 59 (permalink) Old 01-04-2013 Thread Starter
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Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by Blaseleblanc View Post
Are there any known problems yet known with this new car from 2011 to current? i.e Mustang GT 5.0 with 6 spd. manual made in China problems?

You will want to check the TSB's for this car. I think there is a list on this forum. Some known problems, but not confirmed by Ford are the rusty, junky, two piece driveshaft, adaptive shifting making the A/T become sluggish, and difficult/grinding shifts with the MT82 in certain temps.

Does V-6 model ride comfortable and how does it handle the bumpy roads as far as isolation your body getting beat up?

The base v-6 model with 17" tires rides fairly well. Suspension wise, there is a bit of body roll around corners and the shocks are very stiff. If you hit a speed bump or large bump in the road, your shocks will clunk down alarmingly hard. Also, the rear end needs a little weight or it can become squirrely (without spare tire).Otherwise, a very comfortable car to drive, even on terrible roads.

Does the V-6 Mustang really get 30 MPG??

With 2.73 gears and 17" Low rolling resistance tires, I and most other members got 30-35 mpg at 60-70 mph on a flat interstate with an Auto. Can't speak for the manual. I now have 19" rims and HTRZIII 245/45/19 tires and can't seem to break 30 on the highway.

With the V-6 model is the manual still the preferred choice of transmission with less problems than automatic <acronym title="transmission"><acronym title="transmission"><acronym title="transmission"><acronym title="transmission">trans</acronym></acronym></acronym></acronym>?

If problem free is what you're after, I think an auto is the correct choice in almost all cars. I've never heard of any A/T issues in these cars. The only complaints you will hear from A/T drivers is about the adaptive shifting, which makes the car shift sluggishly if you don't drive aggressively. (can be remedied with a tune and pulling the fuse for a few minutes) I hear tons of bothersome issues about the M/T though.

Is this V-6 Mustang really faster than a V-8 1988 Mustang GT 5.0 Fox body with 5 spd. with 3.55 rear end?

This v6 mustang is rated 305bhp/280 ft-lb, which translates to I'd guess on average 260/240 at the wheels from all the dynos ive seen. I have no clue what the '88 is rated at, but I've seen the 3.7 stock take down any GT up to the new 5.0 with a decent driver, so my guess is yes. These cars can run high 13's stock as far as I know and can break into the 12's with some bolt-ons and experience. Know that you can get 3.31 gears in this car, which would also even the playing field.
tHANKS for that great info. The 1988 Mustang GT with 5.0 engine 5spd. manual with 3.55 rear end is rated at 225 horses and I believe that is at 3,200 rpms.
On the auto trans is it a 4spd. auto, 5spd. auto or 6spd. auto on V-6?
Same on V-6 transmission how many gears with manual trans?

I have had no problems with clutch on factory 1988 5spd. manual T-5. The car is 24 years + old. Car is stock just changed clutch so with me the manuals last long just as this car has.
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post #5 of 59 (permalink) Old 01-04-2013
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The only gripes I had about my M/T were very difficult shifting when cold and the lousy factory shifter that seemed to be made from the flimsiest metal Ford could find. Oh and the annoying flywheel vibration that all the M/T cars have between 2-3k RPM. These problems are inherent in pretty much all of the MT82 cars and are only solved with aftermarket parts. Even with the relative smoothness and trouble free operation of the 6 speed automatic, you'd still not catch me spending an extra $1000 on a damn slushbox when I had the option to get a manual trans. If you ain't shifting, you ain't driving.

The T-5 on your Fox is a totally different trans than what is in the new cars. I do not forsee these newer boxes having the lifespan of the old T-5 behind a stock 302.

As far as beating a Fox 5.0, THAT shouldn't ever be a problem unless the Fox is pretty heavily modded. My last two, both 5 speeds, one with a 3.55, one with a 3.73 and otherwise stock, were low 15 second cars on a good day. A bone stock 11-up V6 will beat that handily regardless of trans and gear options.

My car rode very smoothly, not Town Car smooth, but easily the best riding Mustang I've owned, and got 30+ mpg highway before I started f$%king with it.

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post #6 of 59 (permalink) Old 01-04-2013 Thread Starter
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Quote:
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The only gripes I had about my M/T were very difficult shifting when cold and the lousy factory shifter that seemed to be made from the flimsiest metal Ford could find. Oh and the annoying flywheel vibration that all the M/T cars have between 2-3k RPM. These problems are inherent in pretty much all of the MT82 cars and are only solved with aftermarket parts. Even with the relative smoothness and trouble free operation of the 6 speed automatic, you'd still not catch me spending an extra $1000 on a damn slushbox when I had the option to get a manual trans. If you ain't shifting, you ain't driving.

The T-5 on your Fox is a totally different trans than what is in the new cars. I do not forsee these newer boxes having the lifespan of the old T-5 behind a stock 302.

As far as beating a Fox 5.0, THAT shouldn't ever be a problem unless the Fox is pretty heavily modded. My last two, both 5 speeds, one with a 3.55, one with a 3.73 and otherwise stock, were low 15 second cars on a good day. A bone stock 11-up V6 will beat that handily regardless of trans and gear options.

My car rode very smoothly, not Town Car smooth, but easily the best riding Mustang I've owned, and got 30+ mpg highway before I started f$%king with it.
So in many respects these new V-6 Mustangs are superior to the old fox Mustang GT's. On the 1988 Mustang 5.0 GT in factory stock conditon it is easy to do preventative mainteance as far as changing spark plugs, PCV valve, cap & rotor, air filter, fuel filter, oil filter and oil. I am not sure if same with new model though the new model but it probably doesn't have a cap n rotor and has spark plugs that go a longer distance
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post #7 of 59 (permalink) Old 01-04-2013
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I think the new cars have plugs rated for 100,000 miles. The oil filter can be reached from the top. The bad part is there is a splash guard right beneath it. I have not changed the oil myself yet so I don't know what hassle this splash guard will be to deal with.

[LEFT][SIZE=2][B][FONT=Arial Narrow][COLOR=Red]2013 V6 Base, Manual / Race Red / Roush CAI / Roush Axle Back/w square tips / Steeda tower brace.[/COLOR][/FONT][/B][/SIZE][/LEFT]
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post #8 of 59 (permalink) Old 01-04-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cobra stang View Post
So in many respects these new V-6 Mustangs are superior to the old fox Mustang GT's. On the 1988 Mustang 5.0 GT in factory stock conditon it is easy to do preventative mainteance as far as changing spark plugs, PCV valve, cap & rotor, air filter, fuel filter, oil filter and oil. I am not sure if same with new model though the new model but it probably doesn't have a cap n rotor and has spark plugs that go a longer distance
I would definitely say they are superior. The A/T is also a 6 speed, with an option on the shifter to disable overdrive (6th gear) and shift 1-3 gear manually. The automatic does have vibrations as well. I notice my car has rattling pedal feedback and vibrations throughout the cabin anywhere when I give it gas between 1600-2200 RPM's. Any RPM other than that and it is smooth as butter. (I do have an aftermarket axleback exhaust). It's the one thing that REALLY annoys me about these cars- I can't have anything loose in cupholders or in the door holders or hanging from my visors because as soon as I give the car gas while I'm cruising, everything begins rattling and making incessant noise. However, I'm sure this would most likely be a problem too on a rumbling 5.0 foxbody!

So far on this car, I haven't heard of anyone changing the sparks due to maintenance or a cap and rotor. Air filters, oil filters, and oil are very very easily done as well. Maintenance wise, I've done it all myself since I was 18 with no experience on this same car.

Current Mods: 19x8.5 Charcoal AMR Rims, Bama Tune 93H, Airaid CAI, FRPP Sport Axle Backs, FRPP 3.73 gears, Boss/CS/GT500 Rear Diffuser, GT500 Rear Spoiler, GT500 Mud Guards, Raxiom Reverse/License LED Lights, OEM Take off Black Charcoal Leather, GT500 Steering Wheel, Auto Headlights, Chrome 3.7 Badges, Quarter Window Louvers, Dark Matter Tint

Future Mods: Matte black GT500 Stripe, Black Billet Grilles, Stillen Front Chin Spoiler, Roush Side Splitters, Painted Mirror Caps
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post #9 of 59 (permalink) Old 01-04-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by valorian View Post
I think the new cars have plugs rated for 100,000 miles. The oil filter can be reached from the top. The bad part is there is a splash guard right beneath it. I have not changed the oil myself yet so I don't know what hassle this splash guard will be to deal with.
The splash guard flips down so you can access it if you so choose.

Current Mods: 19x8.5 Charcoal AMR Rims, Bama Tune 93H, Airaid CAI, FRPP Sport Axle Backs, FRPP 3.73 gears, Boss/CS/GT500 Rear Diffuser, GT500 Rear Spoiler, GT500 Mud Guards, Raxiom Reverse/License LED Lights, OEM Take off Black Charcoal Leather, GT500 Steering Wheel, Auto Headlights, Chrome 3.7 Badges, Quarter Window Louvers, Dark Matter Tint

Future Mods: Matte black GT500 Stripe, Black Billet Grilles, Stillen Front Chin Spoiler, Roush Side Splitters, Painted Mirror Caps
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I was very impressed going from the 4.0 to the 3.7 torque wise. I had the 3.31:1 gear in my 2009 4.0 and the 2.73:1 gear in the 3.7 is better. I have the 6 speed auto tranny. It shifts kinda funny, needs a tune to bring it alive.
I can't wait to install 3.55:1 gear!

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The only real problems I have with my car is: I don't get to drive it often enough, and someday I'm going to get a very expensive ticket.

You can look at my sig line and see what I drive. The 19s on My Perf Pac car ride nice enough. It's no Lincoln.

I can get 30 mpg if I try.

If I had to drive a slush box, I wouldn't have bought it. The tranny in my car has been wonderful. I don't drive the car when it's real cold, but all manual transmissions are designed to work at operating temperature, so expect some slugglishness when cold. That's just the nature of the beast.

If you order a new Mustang, be sure and get the 3.31 rear, and take the money you've saved on swapping rear end gears, and put it towards an alum drive shaft. I think the 3.31 is just about ideal for what I do, but I can understand how others think the 3.55 or 3.73 is the way to go.

I had a `73. Never owned a Mustang II or a Fox body. IMHO, the Fox body was even uglier than the II, however, it was a step in the right direction, and I have respect for the Foxes. I remember reading in the magazines at the time about how horse power was back, alive and well. Well, for the time period at least.

In every respect, the new V6s are superior.

`13 DIB, MCA, Perf Pac, Comf Pac, Back Up Camera, MT82, AE Driveshaft, Bama Tune: 93R, BBK Shortys. Borla Touring Mufflers, Air Raid CAI, AM Shift Knob, WeatherTec mats, Stripes and Tint. "Winter 18" GT Wheels and Tires, powder coated black" Redline Hood Struts, Steeda LCAs. Paid Cash.
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Some known problems include the cold start engine tick, which seems to affect early 2011 models but has also shown up in later 2011 and early 2012 models. Also, the automatic transmission is not completely problem free: there is a TSB (11-11-11) which requires the replacement of solenoids and the lead frame to fix RPM surges during shifting.

My particular car had the engine tick (which was fixed) and also seems to have minor problems with RPM surges while shifting, although this occurs randomly and so it would be impossible to prove to a dealership without them saying that the "vehicle is operating normally". If it gets so bad that it happens constantly that is when I'll take it in.

The interior creaks and suffers from random rattling and popping while driving. I also had one of the passenger seat power motors break down and have yet to get it fixed under warranty but will do so soon (I have seen a few threads on here about broken power seat motors so it may be an issue to look out for). Furthermore, my seat warmers no longer work very well and seem to shut off after a few minutes of operation, despite the fact that the button is still in the "on position".

In addition, I get a random annoying buzzing sound from the gauge cluster when the RPMs rise above 2500 but this only happens occasionally and would be impossible to prove at a dealership. With my luck it will finally become a constant problem when my bumper to bumper runs out in June.

Furthermore, myself and a few others have reported random fluctuations in vent temperature when the A/C is on, regardless of driving parameters. The air emanating from my vents will regularly change from luke warm to ice cold even when driving at steady RPM on the highway.

Present: 2012 Mustang GT - California Special Package - Race red - Electronics package - Security package - 3.73 - Steeda shift knob - Steeda shift bracket (red bushing) - Durashield clear bra - GT500 ABs - Shaftmasters DS - Build date: February 14th, 2012

Past: 2011 Mustang V6 - Pony Package Premium Coupe - Black - Charcoal Leather - Roush Front Fascia - Matte Black Lemans and Hockey Stick Hood Stripes - 6% HP Charcoal Tint - 3.31
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"Slush box" is the correct word for a non tuned automatic. My Auto rips through the gears so hard with my tune it puts me back in my seat going from 3rd to 4th at 120 now though and It shifts way faster than my friends mt82 5.0 especially from 2nd to 3 rd gear. The auto Is also more reliable than the stick; it's not built in china and hasn't had any problems.


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+1 on the 3.31 I regret not getting the alarm/backup sensor but that is the only regret. I have driven both a new and a 2004 v8. Todays v8 really rocks but is not worth my $ the 2004 was used....meh it was ok but nothing special.

Only a V6 but it is the fastest color.

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I stand corrected on the slush box.

You're still one petal short

`13 DIB, MCA, Perf Pac, Comf Pac, Back Up Camera, MT82, AE Driveshaft, Bama Tune: 93R, BBK Shortys. Borla Touring Mufflers, Air Raid CAI, AM Shift Knob, WeatherTec mats, Stripes and Tint. "Winter 18" GT Wheels and Tires, powder coated black" Redline Hood Struts, Steeda LCAs. Paid Cash.
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