Lowering Springs! - Ford Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-28-2013 Thread Starter
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Lowering Springs!

Hey everyone, first off I have like and looked and have found no answers for my question. I want to lower my 2013 v6 and I'm not 100% sure what I need to do it. Can I just get a set of lowering springs and install them and get an alignment ad be good to go? Or is there more too it then just that? Thanks for any help.


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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-29-2013
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If you just google it there are tons of threads about this. However, it all depends on how much money you want to spend and how low you want to go. If you want to just get the basics, you can get by with springs and an adjustable panhard bar. If you want to go all out, you can get that along with new shocks and struts, camber plates, control arms and sway bars. I just lowered my 07 GT with Steeda Sports and just added a panhard bar and my camber was still good. But it has been about 4,000 miles and my shocks and struts are starting to go since it is a lot harder on them. I would recommend doing it right the first time, get your springs, panhard and Koni shocks and struts. You will be glad you did trust me!

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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-29-2013
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I have had my springs installed and they work great with just the springs and an alignment I didn't need anything else. The shop who installed them said my stock shock/struts should hold up fine with the mild drop. It was about 1.5 in the back and 1.2 in the front.


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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-29-2013
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Koni makes a new SRT "Street" set of shocks&struts that are reasonably
priced you might try with your springs. Haven't heard any feedback on
this new setup.

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2014 3.7 Cyclone DIB\BMR rear lca;s\ Shelby razor 18x9 custom rims\275/40/18 Yokohama S-drives\Boss 302 strut brace\Airaid "tube"& aFe inverted Dry-S drop-in\UPR catch can\Koni sports\J&M cc plates\
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-29-2013 Thread Starter
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So at the basic minimum I can run just springs alone, but for the better of things go with springs and shocks&struts.


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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-29-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by revrentzero View Post
So at the basic minimum I can run just springs alone, but for the better of things go with springs and shocks&struts.


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Yes but I would get an adjustable panhard bar or else your rear end will be out of alignment. They are only about $100 and stiffin up the back end a lot too for better traction.

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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-29-2013
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The rear end will not be guaranteed out of alignment. Mine was totally within factory spec. I would get the springs installed, wait 2 weeks, and than get an alignment check. Buy the necessary parts from there.

1st Time at the 1/4 Mile Best E.T out of 4 passes (Without Ported Intake Manifold):
Uncorrected 2500DA 13.5@105.69 MPH w/ a 2.17 60".Corrected 13.3@107 MPH
Ford Racing 4.10 Gears/ Borla S Type Axleback/BBK Chrome Equal Length Shorties/Lethal Performance Catless H Pipe/JLT CAI/Ported Upper and Lower Intake Manifolds/Steeda 91 Octane Tune/ SR Springs
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-30-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by revrentzero View Post
Hey everyone, first off I have like and looked and have found no answers for my question. I want to lower my 2013 v6 and I'm not 100% sure what I need to do it. Can I just get a set of lowering springs and install them and get an alignment ad be good to go? Or is there more too it then just that? Thanks for any help.


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Yes, you can just install the springs and be done. However, it'll handle better with upgraded shocks & struts, and I'd recommend an adjustable panhard bar.

I'm using these springs on my car and they work well.

2005-2013 Ford Mustang GT V6 UPR Pro Series Kit Lowering Springs by Eibach at UPR Products - Lifetime Warranty!


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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-02-2013
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Check the lowering specs of various spring types/brands, some indicate .75" front, 1" rear and then the amount increases from there. My understanding is that up to 1" in the front will not require camber plates and up to 1.5" in the rear will not require adjustable panhard. In that you're in a '13, these minimal drops will not require new dampers (shocks/struts), but as others have said it would make a better package. Whenever you do change dampers, you would be well advised to change front mounts to GT500 variety so you can use dampers for 05-10 models, which gives you many more options.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by powerwhee View Post
The rear end will not be guaranteed out of alignment. Mine was totally within factory spec. I would get the springs installed, wait 2 weeks, and than get an alignment check. Buy the necessary parts from there.

Mine was better after drop lol. And I have the sportlines.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mustang No.6 View Post
Check the lowering specs of various spring types/brands, some indicate .75" front, 1" rear and then the amount increases from there. My understanding is that up to 1" in the front will not require camber plates and up to 1.5" in the rear will not require adjustable panhard. In that you're in a '13, these minimal drops will not require new dampers (shocks/struts), but as others have said it would make a better package. Whenever you do change dampers, you would be well advised to change front mounts to GT500 variety so you can use dampers for 05-10 models, which gives you many more options.
I'm in favor of upgrading the PHB always, because even if your rear is centered, the stock PHB is flimsy and has weak bushings.

I don't however recommend camber bolts or cc-plates. The negative camber added from lowering springs actually improves cornering grip, and doesn't seem to hurt tire wear up to about a 1.5" drop. At least not on my car.


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Quote:
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I'm in favor of upgrading the PHB always, because even if your rear is centered, the stock PHB is flimsy and has weak bushings.

I don't however recommend camber bolts or cc-plates. The negative camber added from lowering springs actually improves cornering grip, and doesn't seem to hurt tire wear up to about a 1.5" drop. At least not on my car.
Yeah, that upper panhard bar is so flimsy, I couldn't believe it when I took it off.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sharad View Post
I'm in favor of upgrading the PHB always, because even if your rear is centered, the stock PHB is flimsy and has weak bushings.

I don't however recommend camber bolts or cc-plates. The negative camber added from lowering springs actually improves cornering grip, and doesn't seem to hurt tire wear up to about a 1.5" drop. At least not on my car.
Its actually not the camber that effects tire wear but the toe. Should get it checked just in case since camber can be observed but toe is a bit more difficult

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