Discuss New from Steeda - Front LCAs for 11-13 on AllFordMustangs.com, the place for Mustang enthusiasts.
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These specially modified factory O.E. arms are upgraded with high durometer urethane bushings for greatly reduced deflection and longer X11 ball joints for improved front suspension geometry.
Reduced bushing deflection will noticeably increase steering response and maintain proper alignment geometry during hard cornering. Our X11 ball joints will improve front geometry for increased cornering grip, reduced understeer, and reduced body roll.
Most importantly, these arms wont fold up and break under high stress conditions like aftermarket tubular designs. You get all the strength and durability that only the factory control arm assembly can provide!
Note: Due to the relocation from the longer ball joint, 18 inch or larger wheels are required for clearance.
Product Benefits
Will not fold up and break like aftermarket tubular designs
Increased cornering grip - reduced understeer
Maintains proper alignment geometry under hard braking
It pains me to do this as I have great respect for Steeda and their products, but I can't recommend anyone replace their front lower control arms or bushings due to a risk of complications with the EPAS electronic steering system. People have reported sudden and sometimes violent shuddering from the steering wheel after replacing just bushings on the front lower control arms, and this has even been thoroughly documented by some respected vendors such as Vorshlag.
This is not to say everyone would experience this on a 2011+ Mustang with EPAS, but if you daily drive your car the risk is too high in my opinion. The only remedy for the issue is to replace the entire steering rack with a modified unit from Ford Racing($999) that has certain aspects of the software removed. This software is not transferrable into an existing steering rack, as was confirmed by Vorshlag. Also this repair is not covered under warranty.
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2011 GT Black w/Saddle, 6MT, 3.73, BREMBO, Steeda CAI, Boss Intake, Steeda Tunes, Borla S-Type axlebacks, Dynatech 1 7/8 LT w/custom H-pipe, Pypes M80, Dynatech driveshaft, FRPP "P" springs, Koni STR.T, UMI adj. LCA and relo brackets, UMI adj. panhard bar, GT500 mounts, Joe Heck Racing Shifter, bracket, and clutch line.(2013 Setup) 12.19 @ 116mph 1.88 60' stock Pirelli's at MIR 438 rwhp, 421 rwtq...SAE Dynojet(2011 setup) 154.0 mph Texas Mile, Oct. 2011
1967 Fastback, 4-speed, work-in-progress
It pains me to do this as I have great respect for Steeda and their products, but I can't recommend anyone replace their front lower control arms or bushings due to a risk of complications with the EPAS electronic steering system. People have reported sudden and sometimes violent shuddering from the steering wheel after replacing just bushings on the front lower control arms, and this has even been thoroughly documented by some respected vendors such as Vorshlag.
This is not to say everyone would experience this on a 2011+ Mustang with EPAS, but if you daily drive your car the risk is too high in my opinion. The only remedy for the issue is to replace the entire steering rack with a modified unit from Ford Racing($999) that has certain aspects of the software removed. This software is not transferrable into an existing steering rack, as was confirmed by Vorshlag. Also this repair is not covered under warranty.
WOW, really good info...also i think these look interesting but for 500.00 (and maybe a new 1k steering rack)...not sure that interesting.
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This looks like a good replacement for the noisy OEM control arms if you are one to have that issue. However if they do interfere with the EPAS system why would one develop them for a street application. I'm interested in what Steeda has to say.
My front control arms sounded so terrible yesterday creaking and poping I thought about driving it to a dealer and trading for something else. Absolute junk.
There's a thread on here somewhere that shows Ford is offering a "Fix"
for this at your dealer.
Yeah I know they are attempting a fix they are on there third or fourth revision of control arms still can't get it right. I am waiting for mine to get really bad so there is no doubt there is an issue. I don't have the time or patience to be going back and forth with the dealer. My day is coming soon.
My front control arms sounded so terrible yesterday creaking and poping I thought about driving it to a dealer and trading for something else. Absolute junk.
Hmmm, Steeda here is offering the same "junky" control arms, but with high durometer urethane bushings, which if anything, might increase NVH.
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2012 GT Yellow Blaze MT 3.73 * Steeda CAI & 91 Tune * Koni Yellows & Steeda Sports * BMR Adj. Panhard Bar, UCA, LCA's & Brackets * Barton Shifter & Bracket * Ford Brake Duct Cooling Kit * Steeda Front & Rear Brake Upgrade * Hypersilver Eurotek O2 19x9.5's * 275/40ZR19 Michelin PSS's * Ford Racing Touring Mufflers * GT/CS Front Valance & Boss Splitter * Blackout Fogs, Deck Lid & MMD Tail Light Trim * GT500 Rear Diffuser & Splash Guards * Infinity Reference Front Speakers * Custom Faux Gas Cap.
Hmmm, Steeda here is offering the same "junky" control arms, but with high durometer urethane bushings, which if anything, might increase NVH.
There isn't anything 'junky' about the control arms, it's the bushings that have the issue. If you have been following the aftermarket control arm failures you would know the factory parts are actually far stronger.
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2011 GT Black w/Saddle, 6MT, 3.73, BREMBO, Steeda CAI, Boss Intake, Steeda Tunes, Borla S-Type axlebacks, Dynatech 1 7/8 LT w/custom H-pipe, Pypes M80, Dynatech driveshaft, FRPP "P" springs, Koni STR.T, UMI adj. LCA and relo brackets, UMI adj. panhard bar, GT500 mounts, Joe Heck Racing Shifter, bracket, and clutch line.(2013 Setup) 12.19 @ 116mph 1.88 60' stock Pirelli's at MIR 438 rwhp, 421 rwtq...SAE Dynojet(2011 setup) 154.0 mph Texas Mile, Oct. 2011
1967 Fastback, 4-speed, work-in-progress
This looks like a good replacement for the noisy OEM control arms if you are one to have that issue. However if they do interfere with the EPAS system why would one develop them for a street application. I'm interested in what Steeda has to say.
My front control arms sounded so terrible yesterday creaking and poping I thought about driving it to a dealer and trading for something else. Absolute junk.
Why don't you drive it to the dealer and get 'em fixed? There is a TSB out on this.
Why don't you drive it to the dealer and get 'em fixed? There is a TSB out on this.
Read my post above, I will at some point.
Grimace you are correct the control arms themselves are fine it is the bushings that are junk. You wouldn't think it would be that hard to make them right.
Grimace you are correct the control arms themselves are fine it is the bushings that are junk. You wouldn't think it would be that hard to make them right.
Mine is a 2011 and the bushings have never needed to be replaced.
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2011 GT Black w/Saddle, 6MT, 3.73, BREMBO, Steeda CAI, Boss Intake, Steeda Tunes, Borla S-Type axlebacks, Dynatech 1 7/8 LT w/custom H-pipe, Pypes M80, Dynatech driveshaft, FRPP "P" springs, Koni STR.T, UMI adj. LCA and relo brackets, UMI adj. panhard bar, GT500 mounts, Joe Heck Racing Shifter, bracket, and clutch line.(2013 Setup) 12.19 @ 116mph 1.88 60' stock Pirelli's at MIR 438 rwhp, 421 rwtq...SAE Dynojet(2011 setup) 154.0 mph Texas Mile, Oct. 2011
1967 Fastback, 4-speed, work-in-progress
That is what is really strange some people with the original version have no issues and then some do and continue to have problems. Whatever the issue may be it is not consistent. Yesterday it made the worst sounds going over speed bumps and when turning into a driveway left or right you can hear it pop from inside the car. I even noticed when taking off from a dead stop it would pop. When hitting say a large dip in the road I can feel it under my feet and hear it crunch. Car only has 7500 miles on it
Grimace were you lowered right away? Wondering if reducing suspension travel may be a plus in this case or the change in geometry. Just thought.
That is what is really strange some people with the original version have no issues and then some do and continue to have problems. Whatever the issue may be it is not consistent. Yesterday it made the worst sounds going over speed bumps and when turning into a driveway left or right you can hear it pop from inside the car. I even noticed when taking off from a dead stop it would pop. When hitting say a large dip in the road I can feel it under my feet and hear it crunch. Car only has 7500 miles on it
Grimace were you lowered right away? Wondering if reducing suspension travel may be a plus in this case or the change in geometry. Just thought.
I had about 1,000 miles or so when I installed the lowering springs, then maybe 3,000 miles when I replaced the shocks and struts. I'm thinking the issue stems from the outsourced manufactured parts and the subframe geometries that are built by Ford themselves that once in a million don't fit up perfectly.
I've had my fair share of squeaky-bushing diagnoses and each one required it's own fix such as complete component replacement to gluing the bushing to the mounting point with a quick resin. I've only heard one '11+ Mustang with this issue and I would have only rated it a 2 or 2.5 out of 5 on a noise scale, with 5 being the bushing is broken and the control arm is hitting the frame.
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2011 GT Black w/Saddle, 6MT, 3.73, BREMBO, Steeda CAI, Boss Intake, Steeda Tunes, Borla S-Type axlebacks, Dynatech 1 7/8 LT w/custom H-pipe, Pypes M80, Dynatech driveshaft, FRPP "P" springs, Koni STR.T, UMI adj. LCA and relo brackets, UMI adj. panhard bar, GT500 mounts, Joe Heck Racing Shifter, bracket, and clutch line.(2013 Setup) 12.19 @ 116mph 1.88 60' stock Pirelli's at MIR 438 rwhp, 421 rwtq...SAE Dynojet(2011 setup) 154.0 mph Texas Mile, Oct. 2011
1967 Fastback, 4-speed, work-in-progress
It pains me to do this as I have great respect for Steeda and their products, but I can't recommend anyone replace their front lower control arms or bushings due to a risk of complications with the EPAS electronic steering system. People have reported sudden and sometimes violent shuddering from the steering wheel after replacing just bushings on the front lower control arms, and this has even been thoroughly documented by some respected vendors such as Vorshlag.
This is not to say everyone would experience this on a 2011+ Mustang with EPAS, but if you daily drive your car the risk is too high in my opinion. The only remedy for the issue is to replace the entire steering rack with a modified unit from Ford Racing($999) that has certain aspects of the software removed. This software is not transferrable into an existing steering rack, as was confirmed by Vorshlag. Also this repair is not covered under warranty.
Are you saying that every person that has their front LCA replaced under the TSB runs the risk of this happening?
By the way I believe Steeda also now sells a replacement for just the front LCA Hydra bushing as does Prothane.
New from Steeda - Front LCAs for 11-13 
