Discuss Power mods once again. on AllFordMustangs.com, the place for Mustang enthusiasts.
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Have you looked into the Ford Racing Cobra-Jet intake? People seem to be getting decent gains over the Boss intake. It wont be cheap as you will also need to replace your TB and CAI. I agree on valve job/porting is also an option. Also the Cobra-Jet ignition pulse ring to get a little more rpm. I think you are already beyond any easy or cheap hp or tq gains.
Agree with linelock. even though you already have the boss and a larger than stock TB, the cobra jet intake and oval throttle body will make much more power 7tq and 20hp minimum.
Heads would be ideal if they were cheap, I did boss heads and cj cams and got 45 hp out of it w/ stock bottom end - it pulls hard to 7800 but i'm to scared to go higher.. was making more power w rpm it was not flattening out.
w the larger duration stage 2 cams you have, a big set of MMR, JPC, or Livernois stage 3 heads with bigger valves would really work well with the cj intake.
the deep sump ford racing oil pan is supposed to unlock HP but I have not seen the numbers yet. E85 on our NA cars - good for small gains.
light weight clutch and flywheel would help with acceleration between shifts. light weight wheels and ds help also. NA can only get you so far though.. if you want to race the Mexican freeways you have to have FI - either a big ass s/c or turbo setup, with an all new short block and mmr aluminum intake to tolerate 28lbs of boost, beefed up axles and welded tubes, new fuel system and injectors.. then you have 1200hp to play with. more than that you need the MMR 5.2 block (or the L&M block) 30+lbs of boost..
I would say based on your mod list you have just about every bolt on for an NA. It seems your doing Boss Type mods but you don't have the engine for it. I can see that engine not lasting especially if your reving at or over 7500 rpms.
I would either start saving for a Boss Engine to do a swap.
Put the stock Intake Manifold on and go with some 3:73's as well as go for weight reduction. BMR K Member, Lower Radiator Support w Brace, Tubular A Arms, Lithium Battey, Back Seat Delete remove the rear seat belts. You would shave a bit over 100 lbs with that most of it being off the front of the car + 18 enkei's are around 20 lbs if your stock 20's are sitting at 30 lbs that 40 lbs of weight there to.
2 piece brake rotors from Full Tilt Boogie front and rear will shave 15lbs total off the wheels.
That's a lot of rotational weight there.
You do those mods and you'll be close to shaving your own body weight off the car you would certainly feel that.
Thank you for your answers. The answer from twistedneck and SD_Stang. By the way my enkei weight 25 lbs each without the tire. So it's not a big deal but I understand that every lbs count at that point.
I might check into ported and polished heads or Boss heads.
I'm newbie in that department, what should I look for. I have check livernois webstore but I don't know I need to be educated on the subject.
Steeda Canada told me that ported and polished would only give me a 20 hp increase.
I was planning a swap of clutch and flywheel but said that if my clutch doesn't do slippage, I can keep my stock clutch.
Thank you for pointing me in the right direction and if you have more to add on heads, crankshaft or clutch, go add. Always appreciated.
2012 Mustang 5.0: 4.10, Torsen T2R, Steeda CAI, Boss Intake manifold, JBA O/R Xpipe, Kooks shorty headers, Accel Super coil, BBK 90mm TB, Eibach sway bars, Eibach prokit springs, Steeda struts, Steeda camber plates, Steeda aluminium driveshaft, Steeda short shifter, Steeda adjustable LCA, Steeda adjustable UCA, 20in Enkei Razr, Falken FK452, Flowmaster American Thunder, Ford racing brake ducts, hawk pads, boss exterior mods, California spoiler
I would say go the Boss Engine route if your thinking about doing internals add your bolts on to it do some weight reduction and call it a day. I would add the tranny cooler and oil cooler at that time. it will be a 0 mile Forged 444 horse engine then add your bolt ons and a tune.
You would basicallly have a Boss with full bolt ons that weights about 3450 without driver(maybe less). That will beat a few FI cars then if you want to get serious after that put a Kenne Bell on it.
NA is always diminishing returns on $$.. but the way it has instant throttle response and full engine braking, no FI can match that. Mustangs are not supercars but get it super light weight with a good NA power plant and it will feel like a race car I know mine does. Boss crank is = to our crank- you don't need to change. its got more weights for the heavier boss rods and pistons. those are not needed unless you want to spin over 7500 like SD_Stang said.
In all honesty, for what you want to get results-wise, I wouldn't do heads, another cam swap, etc. Build a forged bottom end and put on a blower. All the power you want, stock driveability and reliability, and the power will be in the range you can make use of and enjoy it.