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Hey everyone, first off I have like and looked and have found no answers for my question. I want to lower my 2013 v6 and I'm not 100% sure what I need to do it. Can I just get a set of lowering springs and install them and get an alignment ad be good to go? Or is there more too it then just that? Thanks for any help.
If you just google it there are tons of threads about this. However, it all depends on how much money you want to spend and how low you want to go. If you want to just get the basics, you can get by with springs and an adjustable panhard bar. If you want to go all out, you can get that along with new shocks and struts, camber plates, control arms and sway bars. I just lowered my 07 GT with Steeda Sports and just added a panhard bar and my camber was still good. But it has been about 4,000 miles and my shocks and struts are starting to go since it is a lot harder on them. I would recommend doing it right the first time, get your springs, panhard and Koni shocks and struts. You will be glad you did trust me!
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2007 Mustang GT 4.6L V-8, 5SPD, FRPP 4.10, JLT CAI and 93 BAMA Race Tune, Pypes Pipe Bomb Axel-Backs, Steeda Sports, Panhard Bar, BBR LCA'S, SR Strut Bar, MGW Shifter, GT500 Wing, Roush Louvers, CDC Chin Spoiler, Blacked out Windows and Lights, 6000K HIDS, 19X8.5 and 19X10 Black Bullitt Wheels, Pioneer
I have had my springs installed and they work great with just the springs and an alignment I didn't need anything else. The shop who installed them said my stock shock/struts should hold up fine with the mild drop. It was about 1.5 in the back and 1.2 in the front.
Koni makes a new SRT "Street" set of shocks&struts that are reasonably
priced you might try with your springs. Haven't heard any feedback on
this new setup.
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2009 45th anniversary V6 Premium Mustang Dark Candy Apple.
Medium Parchment Cloth Interior, GT suspension,3.31:1 gear
2012 Candy Red Metallic V6 Charcoal interior\BMR upper and lower control arms\J&M adj. panhard bar\Boss 302 strut brace
SR Performance rear springs\Fuzion UHP tires
Yes but I would get an adjustable panhard bar or else your rear end will be out of alignment. They are only about $100 and stiffin up the back end a lot too for better traction.
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2007 Mustang GT 4.6L V-8, 5SPD, FRPP 4.10, JLT CAI and 93 BAMA Race Tune, Pypes Pipe Bomb Axel-Backs, Steeda Sports, Panhard Bar, BBR LCA'S, SR Strut Bar, MGW Shifter, GT500 Wing, Roush Louvers, CDC Chin Spoiler, Blacked out Windows and Lights, 6000K HIDS, 19X8.5 and 19X10 Black Bullitt Wheels, Pioneer
The rear end will not be guaranteed out of alignment. Mine was totally within factory spec. I would get the springs installed, wait 2 weeks, and than get an alignment check. Buy the necessary parts from there.
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2012 Mustang V6 1/8 Mile E.T: 8.942 @ 81.38 MPH
3.31 Gears
Borla S Type Exhaust
JLT CAI
Steeda 91 Octane Tune
SR 1.5" Lowering Springs
Hey everyone, first off I have like and looked and have found no answers for my question. I want to lower my 2013 v6 and I'm not 100% sure what I need to do it. Can I just get a set of lowering springs and install them and get an alignment ad be good to go? Or is there more too it then just that? Thanks for any help.
Yes, you can just install the springs and be done. However, it'll handle better with upgraded shocks & struts, and I'd recommend an adjustable panhard bar.
I'm using these springs on my car and they work well.
Check the lowering specs of various spring types/brands, some indicate .75" front, 1" rear and then the amount increases from there. My understanding is that up to 1" in the front will not require camber plates and up to 1.5" in the rear will not require adjustable panhard. In that you're in a '13, these minimal drops will not require new dampers (shocks/struts), but as others have said it would make a better package. Whenever you do change dampers, you would be well advised to change front mounts to GT500 variety so you can use dampers for 05-10 models, which gives you many more options.
The rear end will not be guaranteed out of alignment. Mine was totally within factory spec. I would get the springs installed, wait 2 weeks, and than get an alignment check. Buy the necessary parts from there.
Mine was better after drop lol. And I have the sportlines.
Check the lowering specs of various spring types/brands, some indicate .75" front, 1" rear and then the amount increases from there. My understanding is that up to 1" in the front will not require camber plates and up to 1.5" in the rear will not require adjustable panhard. In that you're in a '13, these minimal drops will not require new dampers (shocks/struts), but as others have said it would make a better package. Whenever you do change dampers, you would be well advised to change front mounts to GT500 variety so you can use dampers for 05-10 models, which gives you many more options.
I'm in favor of upgrading the PHB always, because even if your rear is centered, the stock PHB is flimsy and has weak bushings.
I don't however recommend camber bolts or cc-plates. The negative camber added from lowering springs actually improves cornering grip, and doesn't seem to hurt tire wear up to about a 1.5" drop. At least not on my car.
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Ask me about the discount on UPR Products for AFM members!
I'm in favor of upgrading the PHB always, because even if your rear is centered, the stock PHB is flimsy and has weak bushings.
I don't however recommend camber bolts or cc-plates. The negative camber added from lowering springs actually improves cornering grip, and doesn't seem to hurt tire wear up to about a 1.5" drop. At least not on my car.
Yeah, that upper panhard bar is so flimsy, I couldn't believe it when I took it off.
I'm in favor of upgrading the PHB always, because even if your rear is centered, the stock PHB is flimsy and has weak bushings.
I don't however recommend camber bolts or cc-plates. The negative camber added from lowering springs actually improves cornering grip, and doesn't seem to hurt tire wear up to about a 1.5" drop. At least not on my car.
Its actually not the camber that effects tire wear but the toe. Should get it checked just in case since camber can be observed but toe is a bit more difficult
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Car: 2011 Black Mustang v6, 6-Speed Auto, Premium Package MODS: KW Variant 3 Coilovers w/ Maximum Motorsport CC Plates | J&M Adj. Panhard Rod | AEM Intake | Bama 91R | Borla S-Type Axle-Back | Boss Front Conversion w/ Saleen Grille + Foglight w/ Auto Headlight | Boss Rear Diffuser | Forgestar F14 18x10 +42 w/ Nitto NT05 275/35-18 (all around)| BMR LCA | SVT GT500 BBK|
Chuckwalla(CW)-2:21.065
Streets of Willow(CCW)- 1:29.661
Buttonwillow(CCW)-Let's not talk about it
Lowering Springs! 
