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Now i'm starting to think that we need to resticky milw96cobra's post about gears. A lot of people here are still asking the same questions that are answered in that post. I have 4.10 gears and i'm completely satisfied and i am soo glad that i did not go with 3.73 gears. I have seen better gas mileage around town and had a huge gain in performance. A lot of people are saying that oh with 4.10 gears you will be shifting a 5 speed like crazy. I do not think that is true one bit, with my lower gears i can start off in 2nd now if i wanted to. 1st gear is just to get you rollin, when ever i come to a half i hardly ever down shift to first unless i come to a complete dead on stop but anything else i can stay in 2nd gear and not lug the engine or do any damage to the clutch at all. When i'm driving around town im' in 5th gear, instead of having to be gonig at about 70 mph to be in 5th, i can be cruising at 45-50 mph and be in 5th. It is quite nice.
Don't fear the gear
Gears are the best bang for the buck by car but thats only if you choose the rite gear ratio. You will see bigger performance gains with 4.10 gears, i know. With 4.10 gears i have not been able to floor it in 1st or 2nd gear. I have stock suspension and all i can do is just smoke the tires.
Everyone, please dont fear the gear and by the higher gear. There are many people on here that have gone with 3.73 gears, and ended up swapping them out for 4.10 gears.
Thanks and i just wanted to clear some of this stuff up..
Milw96cobra's Post
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Everything you need to know about Gears!
Mods : Sticky this if you want....
Why am I writing this? I see alot of people asking about what gears they should get, and in others replies I constantly see false information being passed on. I know first hand what 4.30's feel like in a Modded 96 Cobra... 4.10's feel like in a Modded 2000 GT, and 3.73's feel like in a 95 GT.
First off... DONT FEAR THE GEAR
There are many misconceptions when it comes to choosing the right gears. Now you might be saying to yourself, 4.30s!? That's WAY too much. But in all reality, they work perfect. In a 1/4 mile race, you want to be crossing the finish line at your peak Horsepower RPM in 4th gear.
For our modular Cobra's (pre 2003), with that beloved 6800rpm redline, 4.30's puts you at that peak HP RPM when you cross the line in 4th.
For our modular GT's with a slightly less rpm range... 4.10's would suit best.
For those of you with the pushrod 5.0's, 3.73's work great, since you make all your power in the midrange, as opposed to us modular guys making our power up top. Although, I've heard several people say they should have gone 3.90's or even 4.10's as well.
It feels like the car lost 1000lbs. Yes, that's right. It just pulls like no other. You hardly have to push the pedal to get up to speed... and that's even keeping it under 3200 rpms. I had a Viper try to pass me in the passing lane the other day on my way out to my girlfriend's house in the country... I dropped her to 2nd at about 45.... let her rip... That Viper didn't get passed my door. Maybe he wasn't flooring it, but the look on his face sure told a tale.
Ahhh, another concern that has probably crossed your mind is, but what about my gas mileage?!
I drive probably about 40% city 45% highway and 5% 'givin it some'
With my 3.27's, I would consistently get 19 miles per gallon.
I've gone through 2 tanks on my 4.30's now.... each with probably 35% city 50% highway 15% lettin her rip.... 22 and 23 miles per gallon.
Yes you heard me right.... my gas mileage IMPROVED.
And YES I am taking 5% off my mileage total, due to my speedometer being slightly off (even with the 23 tooth speedo gear)
As long as we modular guys keep the rpm's under 3250rpm's, where the intake runners switch over to the 'performance' square runners.... we are in 'economy' mode.
I totaly agree with you Luke.4.10's=Modular 4.6L
In the future though look into stickyer tires,
upper and lower control arm,and subframe connectors.
They will stop you from spinning your two back tires into the ground and over all better your launch of course.
Keep praticing your launches pratice makes perfect even
with stock suspention.Are you still running your white
23 tooth speedometer gear or did you get Speedcal?
If you are still useing your speedometer gear how much
are you off?
Yeah i have some traction problems.... :\ But yeah i have the 23 tooth speedo and i'm off about 4% so at like 100 mph it reads at 104 which isn't that bad. I plan on getting a speedcal though. IN the future i plan on putting on some sub frames, lower control arms, and put coil overs all around.
Luke that's good I though you would be off by more than
4%.I would get Speed Cal first thing to save your mileage.
Since you only have 36,000 miles witch is very rare to find
a 98 GT with that low of miles.It will only save thousands of
extra miles for just one hundred bones.If you trade it or sell
it one day it will be worth most dew to the lower miles.For
going that high in the gear ratio I thought you would be off
by 6%.That suspension is what will make your traction issues
go away.I know it's eazy to say but,expensive to do.Luke
what are your favorite coil overs and upper and rear control
arms?
I'm not sure, i know that you can get them off of ebay for about 180 for the rear and 160 for the front but i also know that Maximum Motorsports sells them. What do you think would be better, front coil overs and adj. rear control arms? Or coil overs all around? I want to be able to lower and raise my car as i please.
sorry, a little off topic, but the speed cal box's, do they have to stay on the car, or can you calibrate the speedometer then take it off? me and a friend were gonna split the cost, but were worried that it has to stay on the car. thanks.
__________________
2004 Ford Ranger EDGE
1995 Ford Mustang GT
Sic vis pacem para bellum.
-If you want peace, prepare for war.
Luke, I think that front coil overs and adj. rear control
arms would be best out of the two.I would do it step
by step though do coil overs all the way around and
than do adj. upper and lower control arms.I would do
it that way.M&M is a great place to buy them at.Doing
coil overs I would consider Eibach spring and M&M or
Steeda adj. upper and lower control arms.What brands
do you personaly like Luke?
if you're going for hook, just do the upper and lower control arms. coil overs are a great way to adjust ride height, and are proven in both road race and drag race apps, but they're obviously more costly then just getting a set of springs.
I didnt know Eibach made coilover springs for the sn95???Where did u find this at?
__________________
John Carrell
Be verwy verwy qwyite
It's import hunting season
1995 GTS..W/ a few basic bolt ons "It's a turd
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| B u d w e i s e r | ||'""|""\___,
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(@!)!(@)"""""**|(@) (@)***|(@)
I looked through the eibach catalog at work. No coil over is made by them. I don't see how our cars could have a coil over anyways, the spring doesn't go over the strut. They are separate.
__________________
-Matt
05 SRT-4, Forced Performance Stage 3 Green Turbo and much much more....
Great Luke those look awesome to me.I as specialy
like the red and blue powdercoating it will protect
the coil overs from rusting or tarnishing.These will
not only low the stang to a perfect height but,improve
your handling by far.
remember that you're going to actually need the shocks and struts too.
personally i'd go MM before I went Granatelli. you're also going to want to know about perch adjustability. some perches are a pita to adjust. thats where buying cheap screws you.
4.10 gears and the facts and myths.. 
