I have an Eibach lowering kit in my 98 GT which I think has had the front springs cut down as my tires are at the top of my WW opening. I'm thinking of installing an Eibach Pro Kit. Has anyone done this swap themselves? Would appreciate any help. I'm new on here so if I've asked in the wrong place, let me know. Thanks.
I have an Eibach lowering kit in my 98 GT which I think has had the front springs cut down as my tires are at the top of my WW opening. I'm thinking of installing an Eibach Pro Kit. Has anyone done this swap themselves? Would appreciate any help. I'm new on here so if I've asked in the wrong place, let me know. Thanks.
Yes, I have the Sportline now but someone cut the front springs and it's way too low so I'm replacing them with the Pro Kit. I was just wondering if anyone had done a Lowering themselves. I know the rears are easy just not too sure about the struts.
Yes, I have the Sportline now but someone cut the front springs and it's way too low so I'm replacing them with the Pro Kit. I was just wondering if anyone had done a Lowering themselves. I know the rears are easy just not too sure about the struts.
Ohhhh, ok I see what you mean. In that case, you'll like the Pro Kit a lot better and here is a detailed how-to article I wrote on installing coil springs (It's in the stickys somewhere, but I'll make it easy on you );
Alright everybody, I've been asked about suspension installation more than a few times in the last few weeks so here's my first write-up to tackle this subject.
Coil Spring Install - Applies to the Fox Body, 94-2008 S197, GT & Cobra
Installing springs is rather easy, all you need is a coil spring compressor *I attached a picture of a coil spring compressor*, a set of crescent's and or sockets, and depending if you're using camber plates or not you'll need a small grinder and a little patience. Read through all of these directions before you start on your install because having to backtrack is time consuming and tedious. For all intensive purposes, I wrote this up during an install on ******'s 2007 S197.
You're going to want to do one side at a time with this install, starting at the rear-end. Jack the car up by the frame, not the differential and you won't need the spring compressor for the rear. Start by unbolting the shocks from the rear end and then supporting the side of the axle with a screw jack. Next, the anti-sway bar is unbolted above the rear end. It's then swung down and allowed to hang. At this point, the springs are practically ready to fall out of the car. The Eibach spring installs in place of the stock unit. Since it's shorter, it easily goes into position. If you're replacing your shocks too then temporarily secure the spring in place by raising the rear axle before beginning the shock removal. If you're replacing the shocks, inside the trunk and under the mat, the top of the rear shock is accessed and unbolted. At this point, the stock shock comes out. Bolt the sway bar back on, then the shocks. Repeat the procedure for the other side of the rear end.
Moving up front with the wheels off, the ABS sensor-wire clip is removed from the strut. Next, unbolt the anti-sway bar link from the front strut followed by the brake-line support bracket that also attaches to the strut. With the small pieces out of the way, the two 14mm bolts that hold the strut to the spindle are detached. Once the bolts are removed, the spindle and strut are separated. Under the hood, remove the four bolts on top of the strut tower. A helpful trick when doing this is removing three bolts and leaving the fourth one loosely in place so you can get a handle on the strut before it drops out. You can also have a helper hold it for you. With the four nuts and two 14mm bolts detached, the strut and spring assembly is removed all at once. It's considerably easier than having to deal with releasing coil-spring tension in the car, as must be done on Fox and SN-95 Mustangs. Using a strut coil-spring compressor, the front spring is compressed to release tension on the upper strut mount. With the spring secured, the nut holding the upper strut mount can be removed, and tension is safely released via the compressor. Other than the boot, the original upper strut mount is the only factory piece reused on the new strut and spring. It's set in place, then the strut nut is replaced while the stem is held with a wrench. The Eibach spring should be short enough to compress it with your hands to get the nut started. From there, simply tighten the nut securely to complete the assembly of the new strut and spring.
If you are worried about alignment and are going to install camber plates, whatever struts are used, in your case the Eibach's, the openings in the strut for the lower bolt attachments need to be elongated for the camber plates. This allows the struts to be moved as the plates and shims allow. Using a plate as a template, mark the area that needs to be elongated. Remove the camber plate, and use a Dremel or other similar tool to grind out the slot according to the marks applied in the previous step. Using a bolt to test the amount of space needed, you may determine that you don't need to open the entire area that was marked. The amount of material removed should allow 1-degree camber shims to be installed with no binding. Also note that when putting the assembly back together, the large-diameter end of the spring must face down with the pigtail against the spring stops in the upper and lower strut mounts. Re-installation of the completed strut and spring assembly is simply a reversal of its removal. Secure the strut in place up top by reinstalling the four bolts on top of it under the hood. Next, reattach the strut to the spindle.
Again, if you are using camber plates, using the hardware supplied with the camber plates, bolt the strut and spindle back together with the camber plates in place. I'd go with one-degree negative camber shims in the plates and the alignment specs usually come out perfectly with the shims and the mild drop the Eibach springs provide. It's still a good idea to put the car on an alignment rack afterwards to verify specs. Complete the installation by reattaching the brake and ABS sensor lines and sway-bar link to the spindle. If your not using camber plates, you're install should take 3 hours max for all 4 springs.
Extra tips that would make your life a lot easier.
1. Pick up a can of PB Blaster or some other kind of penetrating catalyst (any auto parts store) because I guarantee you're gonna have a bolt or 2 that will feel like they're cemented on and the PB will save you from exhaustion. All you need to do is direct a few good sprays onto the nut and threads of the bolt you're removing, give it about 60 seconds and it'll come loose, no problem.
2. I didn't clearly state this for the rear springs but remove only the rear tire of the side you're replacing and only jack up the same side. By jacking up one side at a time instead of both on jack stands, the differential will pull itself farther away from the wheel well you're working on, thus making it easier for the spring to come out. You don't need to do this on the front 2 because those wheels are independent, not connected by a differential.
Dakine858, you are the man. I'm pretty mechanically inlclined but thought I would get some knowledge from you guys before I tackle it. Thanks again, much appreciated.
Hey Dekine858. Just thought I'd let you know I never got to the lowering kit exchange. Had a death in the family so put it off for a week or two. I've decided to do the struts and shocks at the same time. Any thoughts on Bilstein or Koni?? Thanks.
Tokico's will do the trick......
and if its your first time doing a shock/strut/spring swap, its gonna take alllllll day haha. goodluck with that. and you dont need a spring compressor, i yanked my stock springs out with a crowbar (spellcheck on that word), your eibachs should be able to go in with not to many complications.
__________________
-2003 Ford Mustang GT 5-Speed
Mac X-Pipe, Mac Straight Shot intake, Magnaflows, Sportlines, Tokicos, MM C/C Plates, Tint, Mach 1 Lip, and some bald ass tires.
-1998 Ford Mustang GT Convertible 5-Speed
FULL PI SWAP
FULL BOLT-ONS
260 hp / 302 Trq
Hey Dekine858. Just thought I'd let you know I never got to the lowering kit exchange. Had a death in the family so put it off for a week or two. I've decided to do the struts and shocks at the same time. Any thoughts on Bilstein or Koni?? Thanks.
Oh man, I'm sorry to hear that. I hope everything works out for your family.
For shocks and struts on your particular Mustang, my first choice would be Strange shocks and struts. You can externally adjust them and they're very affordable. I ran Bilstein's Sport Series shocks and struts on an 01' GT I used to have and in my opinion they performed very well at the track and drag strip, but for normal everyday driving, I wasn't thrilled with the ride quality. I've never used Koni but I know a few people that have and one of them said that performance wise, they're identical to Strange shocks/struts and just cost a lot more.
Wow, that's great info. The Koni's here are around $800 so it would be great to find an alternative of the same quality. Thanks for the kind words on the family. It's all good. It was expected for a while now but you know how it is.
Wow, that's great info. The Koni's here are around $800 so it would be great to find an alternative of the same quality. Thanks for the kind words on the family. It's all good. It was expected for a while now but you know how it is.
Yeah no problem, unfortunately I do know how it is.
Yeah 800 for a set of shocks and struts is a bit steep. Here's where you can buy the ones by Strange Engineering that I was talking about:
*FYI you might have noticed that it says they're designed for a stock ride height application, but not to worry, they will work great with the Eibach Pro Kit springs.
Thanks for the links. Unfortunately our dollar isn't doing much for buying from the States but I think I may just order the whole kit from Summit as you get the heavier sway bars as well. I'm just getting the tranny rebuilt and the 3:90's installed so I will post some pics once the suspension mods are done. Take care.
yea you dont need the compressor just put a jack under the lower A arm and unbolt it from the strut and the brake and everything and just lower it down. i did it on my 96gt by myself front and back and took about 2hrs. I do however recommend if you dont already have them get some caster camber plates. your tires will love you for it.
Thanks everyone that gave some feedback on the lowering kit install, can never have too much info on anything. Don't worry, the c/c plates were first on the list. The guy that lowered it before I got it didn't do them so now it's new tires as well. Mind you, that's a great excuse to go up to 18's. I can see a new set of wheels in my future. LOL
Lowering kit install?? 
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