I was looking at getting some subframe connectors and was wondering were i could get a good set for a good price. I wanted one that still gave good clearence. guess they might all be about the same but thought i would ask.
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3.73 gears, BBK cai,BBK Throttle body and plenum, BBK long tubes with x-pipe, flowmaster 40's, steeda pully's, steeda's tri axle shifter, diablo predator, spec stage 1 clutch,spec aluminum flywheel, crossed drilled rotors front and back, ford racing springs
yeah full length weld in subframe connectors. id suggest putting the car on a lift because the weight will be on the wheels and you wont weld on a tilted/twisted body. Anywho go to www.americanmuscle.com and look around for them, when you find some you like use discount code: "mustangforums" for a fancy discount
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2001 Mustang Convertible (Cruise Car)...
2000 Mustang Coupe (Race Car)...
Well It's Enough To Kill ANY Of Those Jap Cars
"Real Cars Don't Power The Front Wheels, They Lift Them"
yeah full length weld in subframe connectors. id suggest putting the car on a lift because the weight will be on the wheels and you wont weld on a tilted/twisted body. Anywho go to www.americanmuscle.com and look around for them, when you find some you like use discount code: "mustangforums" for a fancy discount
Yea i saw some on there for 99.99 but the more i looked around i saw them from about 100 to 300. i was just wondering if there was a difference. i don't mind spending the extra money to get something that is good, but if the 99.99 is just as good as the 300 i dont mind saving either lol
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3.73 gears, BBK cai,BBK Throttle body and plenum, BBK long tubes with x-pipe, flowmaster 40's, steeda pully's, steeda's tri axle shifter, diablo predator, spec stage 1 clutch,spec aluminum flywheel, crossed drilled rotors front and back, ford racing springs
they make a few different connectors. imo the best you can get are weld in full lengths. if you click on MaxMS website on the right they have a full length subframe connector that has a driveshaft safety loop and it x's under the car then theres mid length bolt ins/weld ins. theres many different ones. but the ones that always seem to shine are the weld in full lengths id say brand is personal preference, maybe some more people can give some different opinions
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2001 Mustang Convertible (Cruise Car)...
2000 Mustang Coupe (Race Car)...
Well It's Enough To Kill ANY Of Those Jap Cars
"Real Cars Don't Power The Front Wheels, They Lift Them"
The best ones are full length (like 60"), weld in, have cross braces that attach to the seat mounts, and have at least .118" wall thickness.
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That hunk of junk? Yeah, well I've made a few special modifications to that yellow 99 Gt, it makes the Kessel run in 12 parsecs and eats turbo japs and poops chevy's
k..i def will go with full length. anybody know what the difference between full length and XL Full length?
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3.73 gears, BBK cai,BBK Throttle body and plenum, BBK long tubes with x-pipe, flowmaster 40's, steeda pully's, steeda's tri axle shifter, diablo predator, spec stage 1 clutch,spec aluminum flywheel, crossed drilled rotors front and back, ford racing springs
I don't know the difference between the full length's and the XL's. Post a link so we can check them out and see.
I highly recommend hte Maximum Motorsport parts. Excellent quality parts. I think I paid $100 for mine and had them welded in for another $100, get them welded in and not bolted.
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Sometimes I think that government fits that old-fashioned definition of a baby: An alimentary canal with an appetite at one end and no sense of responsibility at the other.
- Ronald Reagan
I don't know the difference between the full length's and the XL's. Post a link so we can check them out and see.
I highly recommend hte Maximum Motorsport parts. Excellent quality parts. I think I paid $100 for mine and had them welded in for another $100, get them welded in and not bolted.
i looked on here and saw XL and standard Maximum Motorsports :: The Leader In Mustang Performance Suspension then on american muscle they just say full so im guessing that standard is there full? Yea i have a buddy that can weld them on for me. Im helping him put a turbo in his car over the break.
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3.73 gears, BBK cai,BBK Throttle body and plenum, BBK long tubes with x-pipe, flowmaster 40's, steeda pully's, steeda's tri axle shifter, diablo predator, spec stage 1 clutch,spec aluminum flywheel, crossed drilled rotors front and back, ford racing springs
They say the XL's are a lot stiffer than their own full-length set. If you've got the extra money to drop on the XL's, I'd get those.
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Sometimes I think that government fits that old-fashioned definition of a baby: An alimentary canal with an appetite at one end and no sense of responsibility at the other.
- Ronald Reagan
sounds good. just makes sure when you weld them up that the car is sitting like it would be on the street. dont let the wheels hang.
AMEN to that. You're going to need a lift to install those properly. You need it up in the air with weight on the wheels so there's no oddball forces and distortion in the chassis.
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Sometimes I think that government fits that old-fashioned definition of a baby: An alimentary canal with an appetite at one end and no sense of responsibility at the other.
- Ronald Reagan
XL Full Length's and am happy with them. They give the car a more solid/precise feel that you will notice right away. The exhaust is still the limiting factor by a significant amount as far as clearance goes. Just be sure to read the instructions thoroughly and follow them during installation. Also, on the passengers side of the car one of the weld areas will be close to the brake and fuel lines. The welder may want someone to help hold them away from the weld zone while he does this area. You also might want to wrap them with some aluminum foil or similar to be sure no spatter burns the lines. I got the bare/unpainted connectors and primed and painted them using a brush with some hardware store primer and enamel. If you get the powder coated ones you still have to sand them down to bare metal in the weld areas.
If you really want to tie things up and since you'll already be under there, install some jacking rails and some type of matrix brace. I run Kenny Brown subframes with KB jacking rails and KB Extreme matrix brace. Unforunately you can't buy KB anymore but I'm sure someone still makes them.
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C&L 80mm mass air and True Flow pipe, Mac CAI, BBK 65mm tb, Steeda non-piggy back ud pulleys, MGW shifter, RAM HD clutch and aluminum flywheel, 3:73 gears, 2.5" Dynomax o/r x pipe, 3" MAC cat back system w/ 3 1/2" tips, Kenny Brown(front and rear strut tower brace, caster plates, subframe connectors,extreme matrix brace,jacking rails, torque brace, lowering springs), Bilstein shocks, 03-04 Cobra(side scoops, rear bumper cover, top), 6pt roll cage, white FR500's, FMS 2000 Cobra R air dam.
subframe connectors 
