2004 Mustang GT not responding when I punch on the pedal
Hi, just recently I had a big coolant leak behind the intake manifold where the heater lines are conected. Yesterday I solved that problem by changing the intake manifold gaskets, but unfortunatly created a bigger one. Today I took it out for a test drive and all was working fine while I drove it normal until I hit the gas pedal. The car responded fine for about four seconds but soon began to loose power and turned off a couple seconds later, such as if it was not receiving enough gas. I then turned it back on after a minute and drove it normal again with no problems until I punched it again, and it had the same results. I got home and had it turned on for a long time without turning off , but sounding such as when u get water in your spark plugs.My guess is that I probalbly conected something wrong when I installed the manifold back bacause before the instalation it was working fine other thatn the coolat leaking. Any help would truly be apreciated.
That sounds like a pair of vacuum lines swapped or maybe a TPS not adjusted properly.
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Did you ever check to see if the coolant made its way into the engine? Alot of times if you check the oil, you will either see or smell it in there. I would recommend changing the oil and watching what comes out.
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2000 Mustang GT; SLP LM1'S; Summit O/r H pipe; JLT True CAI; Accufab 75mm Throttle body & Plenium; Sniper Tuned.
Did you ever check to see if the coolant made its way into the engine? Alot of times if you check the oil, you will either see or smell it in there. I would recommend changing the oil and watching what comes out.
There was actually a lot of coolant in the cylinder next to where the coolant runs, but I dried it completly. But I have noticed my smoke coming out to be a little whiter than usual. I don't know if its the cold temperature that we barely started having down here in southern California or maybe water inside my pistons.
[quote=lightning98;1300014]Is your idle any different?[/quotewhen I gas it a lot it starts reving and unreving by itself as if it wants to turn off but cant make up its mind.
LOng time ago I started this thread and I just want to finish it because I may help out a few...Well it turns out that a little metal piece that goes under the camshaft that gets pushed up by the valves, fell off(sorry I dont know the name). The leak got into one of the valves and caused it to bend causing it to throw off this metal piece since they were not straight. Well I figured this out after I bought a whole new crashed car to swap out my engine. I did the swap and the car is running good again...Does anybody know what could have gotten damage and if the engine might still work????Thanks for everybodies help
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stage 2 clutch, 11 lbs fidanza flywheel, mike thompson slicks,long tube mac headers, catless x-pipe,k&n intake, diablo preadator chiped,
Wait a second.. i was talking about the engine that had the coolant leak. The engine you got out of the wrecked car is probably okay. Those are called valve lifters or "tappets" that you were talking about As long as its running good it must be okay hahaha Just make sure all the pullies are tracking right, check the oil to make sure there is no metal or debris in it. Also check the spark plugs.. these tell you a whole story on how the engine is performing.
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Silver GT '03
4.6L 4R70W Off the Clock, Never Off-Duty™
JLT Cold Air Intake, ProProducts Typhoon Polished Intake Manifold, 180* thermostat, Long High Performance Transmission Cooler, Intake Spacer, SLP Loudmouth 1 Cat-back, Custom Sniper Tune w/91 Octane, Built Rear w/4.10s, Soon to come: 100 shot