Lost control of it this past weekend and went sliding off the road thru some grass bottoming out pretty bad. Didn't notice it until a body shop pointed out the gaps on my doors are off and looked under and saw my passenger sub frame connector was bent to hell. But the car still drives straight as it did before it seems, and the body shop said he could straighten the car right up on a frame machine no problem. My question is I have allstate as insurance and i've heard stories if there is any hint of frame damage they'll just total out the car. Do you think this will happen in my case if I claim insurance?
I am the proudest member of the FIGHTIN' TEXAS AGGIE CLASS OF 2010, Whoop!! Thanks and Gig Em
-2001 Dark Highland Green Mustang Bullitt GT #3064: K&N Air filter, MGW short throw, MAC ceramic long tubes, GP o/r x pipe, Magnapacks, FRPP 3.73's, SCT SF3 Tuner
you should have moe call and ask as an outside source so they can't track it to you. just have him ask with whatever policy options you have. "if i have frame damage, will my car be total with *blah blah blah* policy"
and damn, that frame saw hell on pate road
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2001 Mustang GT, black
K&N intake, p&p plenum and 70mm tb, magnaflow catback, mac prochamber, sct x3 tuner, full eibach suspension, 3.73 gears, yokohoma tires on cobra rims
i would get an estimate from the guy at the body shop and then confront your insurance. if it's only going to be a couple grand (at most) im sure they would rather go with that route.
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Procharged 2002 Mustang GT 5 Speed 351rwhp 353rwtq at 10psi
Next summer looking to go with:
Bilstien shocks + struts, Lowering springs (brand still TBD (any suggestions?)), MM CC plates, front + rear sway bars, subframes, and upper and lower control arms.
Time to make the pony ride some rails
If they total it, you can always find out what junkyard it goes to, buy it back from them for MUCH less, and then get it fixed, and probably come out on top!
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2000 Mustang GT
Performance: CAI, Borla Stinger Catback and SCT 4-bank tuning chip
Aesthetics: Interior blue sparkle paint accents, blue LED interior lighting, Carputer
i dont think they do total em... im not sure though. but when i had allstate i was in an accident and my front frame was broke in half and i had it repaired and they covered it.
They will total it if the cost of repairs exceeds 70% of the car's fair market value. So I would have an estimate done, see what other cars with similar mileage are selling for in your area, and go from there. Don't rely on Kelly Blue Book values, they don't use those, they figure fair market value, which can be higher or lower than KBB depending on your area.
Now, here's what sucks. For a Bullitt, most insurance companies base fair market value on the GT, since they lump them in together for insurance purposes. Yours may or may not, it all depends on the adjuster that they assign, and how well you talk to them.
Even if they do decide to total it, you can do what you want, if they total it, and you want to keep the car you can take the check minus the salvage value, usually a couple hundred bucks. As long as the title isn't changed you'll be fine and should have plenty to fix it up, make ceratin you take it to a very good frame shop, that needs to be done right or the car will ride like **** and have problems with alignment, if a shop can even get it to align. And get some new full length connectors, once the frame has been bent and straightened it will never be as strong as it was so you want to reinforce it.
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That hunk of junk? Yeah, well I've made a few special modifications to that yellow 99 Gt, it makes the Kessel run in 12 parsecs and eats turbo japs and poops chevy's
If they total it, you can always find out what junkyard it goes to, buy it back from them for MUCH less, and then get it fixed, and probably come out on top!
he can buy it back from the insurance company without going through the salvage yard. all he needs to do is tell the adjuster handling the claim he wants to buy it back and they'll cut him a check for the amount of the vehicle less the salvage price. I did this on my 97 cobra when it got broadsided (and I made out like a fat rat in a hat too.)
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Originally Posted by Bullitt5339
They will total it if the cost of repairs exceeds 70% of the car's fair market value. So I would have an estimate done, see what other cars with similar mileage are selling for in your area, and go from there. Don't rely on Kelly Blue Book values, they don't use those, they figure fair market value, which can be higher or lower than KBB depending on your area.
Now, here's what sucks. For a Bullitt, most insurance companies base fair market value on the GT, since they lump them in together for insurance purposes. Yours may or may not, it all depends on the adjuster that they assign, and how well you talk to them.
excellent post. some companies differ, some it's 80%, some are 75%, and some are even known to be 60%. KBB sucks ass and it's a ripoff book designed to screw the consumer and benefit the dealerships on car values.
I always use banks that go off NADA value when getting a loan and buying a car, and I refuse to do business with any insurance company that does not use NADA when valuing a car that has been totaled.
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cardomain.com/ride/2522054 Moser 3.73's, 31 spline Cobra LSD, Moser Forged Axles, MAC Cold Air Intake, MAC O/R H-Pipe, Flowmaster Mufflers, SCT 2 Tuned, 250 RWHP / 287 RWTQ
Well my adjuster told me that if the car is considered to be strucuturally totaled, meaning after the body shop gets it and can't repair the frame, then the car will be dubbed unsafe for road use and won't be able to buy it back. But she said that didn't look like the case with my car.
I took it to a body shop and he said what looks like is happening is that the floor is bowed up so the car will have to sit on his frame rack a few days to slowly apply preessure to the floors and flatten it back down. So it sounds like it can be fixed my estimate was only at $1,551 and will be put back on the road as long as the body is tweaked back to normal.
Quote:
Originally Posted by racin366
Even if they do decide to total it, you can do what you want, if they total it, and you want to keep the car you can take the check minus the salvage value, usually a couple hundred bucks. As long as the title isn't changed you'll be fine and should have plenty to fix it up, make ceratin you take it to a very good frame shop, that needs to be done right or the car will ride like **** and have problems with alignment, if a shop can even get it to align. And get some new full length connectors, once the frame has been bent and straightened it will never be as strong as it was so you want to reinforce it.
and i completely agree with you about the car not being as strong as it was before and i was just gonna get new Factory sub frame connectors like what the Bullitts orignally came with, would those be alright or would you recommend a stronger set than that like something actually welded to the frame.
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I am the proudest member of the FIGHTIN' TEXAS AGGIE CLASS OF 2010, Whoop!! Thanks and Gig Em
-2001 Dark Highland Green Mustang Bullitt GT #3064: K&N Air filter, MGW short throw, MAC ceramic long tubes, GP o/r x pipe, Magnapacks, FRPP 3.73's, SCT SF3 Tuner
Definitely go with the full length, weld-in connectors, they don't cost a lot and are well worth it. Fixing the floorpan isn't as bad as it could be, and having the shop install the connectors when they are doing the other work should lower the cost of the install a bit.
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That hunk of junk? Yeah, well I've made a few special modifications to that yellow 99 Gt, it makes the Kessel run in 12 parsecs and eats turbo japs and poops chevy's
Any specific company you guys would suggest for some good beefy SFC's, they all kinda look the same to me and don't know which ones would be best structurally.
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I am the proudest member of the FIGHTIN' TEXAS AGGIE CLASS OF 2010, Whoop!! Thanks and Gig Em
-2001 Dark Highland Green Mustang Bullitt GT #3064: K&N Air filter, MGW short throw, MAC ceramic long tubes, GP o/r x pipe, Magnapacks, FRPP 3.73's, SCT SF3 Tuner