Hello everyone, this is my first post so bear with me lol i'm just wondering if I can get some advice for my 98 GT. She's got 105k on her and when I bought it last summer I did the following:
-Tranny flush and change filter
-New struts and shocks
-Brake pads
-Alignment & rotate
-And obviously oil evry3k
What else should I consider doing to keep my baby running strong for a long time to come
new plugs and wires, fuel system cleaner, cap and rotor, air filter, coolant flush, synthetic oil, sythetic trans fluid, synthetic gear oil, carb clean and Brakleen to clean the Throttle body,
I can go on for days, but pretty much if you do all this youll get ide say an extra 10,000 miles on the motor just for good upkeep
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*1994 Mustang GT Laser Red w/ White Stripes -
GT40P heads, Cobra Upper & Lower Intake w/ 1/2 Spacer, Ford Racing Ceramic Coated Shorties, 2.25" Exhaust No cats, Flowmaster 40s, 3.5" Stainless Steel Tips, Ford Racing 3.73's, K&N CAI, EdelBrock Chrome Valve Covers, 17" Silver Cobra R rims, Brembo Rotors, 94' Cobra Calipers!
*1982 GMC High Sierra6.2l Diesel 4X4-
Custom CAI, Custom 4" Stainless Steel Stacks, 4:56 Posi, Dana 44 F, Dana 70 R, 15" Bullethole Rims, 33" BFG's, A.K.A BigRED
everywhere i've looked, ppl tell u not to get a tranny flush due to it forcing everything BACKwards, thru the entire tranny .. causing crap to get clogged up !!
other than that .... plugs !!
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Tim
2000 GT
Loud pipes save lives!
"If they can read your plates, you ain't going fast enough!
Dont do the tranny service.I bought a used 89 Mark VII a few years ago and did it and 1 week later the torque convertor blew.Should have left well enough alone.I just bought a '98 GT my self and am going through the same process as you .
new plugs and wires, fuel system cleaner, cap and rotor, air filter, coolant flush, synthetic oil, sythetic trans fluid, synthetic gear oil, carb clean and Brakleen to clean the Throttle body,
I can go on for days, but pretty much if you do all this youll get ide say an extra 10,000 miles on the motor just for good upkeep
Good info but there's no cap and rotor in the 96-98's... just coil packs.
We're at about 114,xxx on our 96GT and just did a tune up ourselves. It's very cheap and easy on a 98 - very little knuckle-scraping to get to the plugs. Remember to use anti-sieze compound on the threads of the plugs and be careful not to cross-thread them. The fuel filter is an easy change as well and should be on the driver side under the car towards the rear. If you are going to do any kind of fuel system cleaner do it BEFORE you do a filter swap.
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66 Coupe Tahoe Turq - 200, Pertronix & Flamethrower, 3 Row Rad, Cliff. 6/2 96 GT Vert Laser Red - FMS pulleys, Bullet ProM, BBK CAI, Prof. Prod. Elbow and 70mm TB, MAC Off-Road H, Borla side exhaust, Tokicos, B&M Ripper, 18x10 & 18x9 DD Bulletts 06 GT Tungsten, UIP, Red Leather, Stick, 18" blades, Steeda CAI, SCT XCal 2 w/ MC Racing 91 tune, MACs, BMR SP010 springs, BMR Adj Panhard, CDC ducktail & quarter louvers, Rear louver, painted black stripes
Thanks for the advice guys! So a tranny flush is really bad? That's the first time I've heard that. I did get the fuel filter changed about a month ago. Any other ideas?
Follow the recommended service intervals designed for your vehicle. And like what mustang mike said switch everything to synthetic. Better fuel mileage, longer lasting, and far more protection then mineral oils.
i said cap and rotor because i have a 5.0 lol so i was just thinking you had one as well even though i saw 98 and knew it has a 4.6
second ive never done a tranny flush in mine so i wouldnt know that problem, but i did however do one in my 86 chevy K10 with the 700R4 so ... that was just my $.02
other than that, ide say new lower ball joints EVENTUALLY because my stock ones werent greasable and im not sure if yours are.... not saying you need them right now just saying when you do, get greasable ones ... and if they already are able to be greased.... then go ahead and do it
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*1994 Mustang GT Laser Red w/ White Stripes -
GT40P heads, Cobra Upper & Lower Intake w/ 1/2 Spacer, Ford Racing Ceramic Coated Shorties, 2.25" Exhaust No cats, Flowmaster 40s, 3.5" Stainless Steel Tips, Ford Racing 3.73's, K&N CAI, EdelBrock Chrome Valve Covers, 17" Silver Cobra R rims, Brembo Rotors, 94' Cobra Calipers!
*1982 GMC High Sierra6.2l Diesel 4X4-
Custom CAI, Custom 4" Stainless Steel Stacks, 4:56 Posi, Dana 44 F, Dana 70 R, 15" Bullethole Rims, 33" BFG's, A.K.A BigRED
i said cap and rotor because i have a 5.0 lol so i was just thinking you had one as well even though i saw 98 and knew it has a 4.6
second ive never done a tranny flush in mine so i wouldnt know that problem, but i did however do one in my 86 chevy K10 with the 700R4 so ... that was just my $.02
other than that, ide say new lower ball joints EVENTUALLY because my stock ones werent greasable and im not sure if yours are.... not saying you need them right now just saying when you do, get greasable ones ... and if they already are able to be greased.... then go ahead and do it
No worries, I wasn't calling you on it. I just didn't want him spending money accidentally on parts he didn't need.
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66 Coupe Tahoe Turq - 200, Pertronix & Flamethrower, 3 Row Rad, Cliff. 6/2 96 GT Vert Laser Red - FMS pulleys, Bullet ProM, BBK CAI, Prof. Prod. Elbow and 70mm TB, MAC Off-Road H, Borla side exhaust, Tokicos, B&M Ripper, 18x10 & 18x9 DD Bulletts 06 GT Tungsten, UIP, Red Leather, Stick, 18" blades, Steeda CAI, SCT XCal 2 w/ MC Racing 91 tune, MACs, BMR SP010 springs, BMR Adj Panhard, CDC ducktail & quarter louvers, Rear louver, painted black stripes
Advice on upkeep? 
and when I bought it last summer I did the following:
I did get the fuel filter changed about a month ago. Any other ideas?
