Before you make the same mistake myself and tons of others have made,set a horsepower goal!
Free flowing exhaust with dual catted pipe if your state/county requires emissions testing/inspection.
Don't do the underdrive pulleys if you plan on putting a blower on later. (I made this mistake myself and had to pull them off later)
Don't replace the stock COP (Coil on Plug) spark plug coils with aftermarket parts since they are fine to over 10# of boost and add no increase.
Don't use the steeda or other type timing adjusters, they trick the computer and the computer can be adjusted to change timing.
Don't overtighten the spark plugs and always use antiseize when changing them, change them only when the engine is cold.
ALWAYS keep your engine oil level at the full mark! I know too many people who have ruined their engines by running them close to "Add" or below and running WOT and starving the crank bearings for oil.
If you are going with a power adder, choose the type you want. If going with a blower, chose centril or positive displacement. Centri has a slight lag and makes power up top, a twinscrew like mine makes instant boost and low to midrange tire frying torque.
My main point in all this is do your research and buy parts 1x, a good example would be:
Don't buy a $900 Mustang Bullitt intake and then turn around later and put a Kenne Bell blower on since the Kenne Bell has its own intake.
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"Ignore that whistle, it's just a vacuum leak."
2000 Mustang GT:
Saleen Series IV Twin Screw, Chicane I/C, AFCO Extreme H/E, 2.8" pulley, FMS 42# injectors, Dual Catted 2 1/2" UPR X Pipe, UPR LCAs/UCAs, 2 1/2" Flowmaster American Thunder kit, 90mm LMAF, 112" Goodyear Gatorback, Kenne Bell BAP, Mosaleen idler, T-56, Detroit TrueTrac w/ 373s, Demolet 100mm CAI, SCT XCal2 with JDM Engineering 93 Octane "Race" tune.
wow.. thanks a lot.. again i appreciate all the advice you guys have to give.. please keep it coming.. what is a good hp goal.. i want my car to be quick/fast off the start.. not trying to go 130+.. thanks again.. i would like to keep up with my friends 2000 SS Camaro
wow.. thanks a lot.. again i appreciate all the advice you guys have to give.. please keep it coming.. what is a good hp goal.. i want my car to be quick/fast off the start.. not trying to go 130+.. thanks again.. i would like to keep up with my friends 2000 SS Camaro
A good whp (wheel horse power) goal for a street car would be right around 400 whp, IMO. If you want street "useable" hp, I would suggest a twinscrew blower like mine for instant boost at low rpms. My setup puts down 360-380 whp depending on ambient temps.
If you plan on going over 400-450 whp, the stock bottom end (pistons and rods) become the limiting factor as well as the safety of the tune you get for the computer.
You will have to upgrade the suspension and tires to get the traction you need for the extra power.
I would suggest 373 gears if you plan on adding boost later.
My car is running 9# of boost, has almost 111,000 miles, 373 gears and I can still get around 25-25.5 mpg on the interstate using cruise. I am getting ready to take the car on a 12 hour drive this summer and hope to get close to 26-27 mpg on the interstate.
Even with boost, my car still has the following ORIGINAL parts...
Stock UNTOUCHED longblock with 110,5xx miles
Stock COP coils
Stock FUEL PUMP running a Kenne Bell Boost a Pump
Stock exhaust manifolds
Stock flywheel
My point is that some of the stock components are good for quite a bit of power before they need to be upgraded. Research all you can before buying any parts.
__________________
"Ignore that whistle, it's just a vacuum leak."
2000 Mustang GT:
Saleen Series IV Twin Screw, Chicane I/C, AFCO Extreme H/E, 2.8" pulley, FMS 42# injectors, Dual Catted 2 1/2" UPR X Pipe, UPR LCAs/UCAs, 2 1/2" Flowmaster American Thunder kit, 90mm LMAF, 112" Goodyear Gatorback, Kenne Bell BAP, Mosaleen idler, T-56, Detroit TrueTrac w/ 373s, Demolet 100mm CAI, SCT XCal2 with JDM Engineering 93 Octane "Race" tune.
If you dont have any suspension parts yet start with some lowering springs from Eibach, H&R, or FMS just to name a couple brands. Then get yourself caster camber plates to adjust the front end alignment just to be safe. Welded in subframe connectors will tighten your ride up and help you handle better. Then after all this maybe some upper/lower control arms for the rear. With these suspension mods your stang will have a nice stance and will actually take some corners and handle a lot more power.
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-04 Mustang GT-Intercooled Kenne bell 2.1L supercharged @10psi, C&L cold air intake, mass air flow, Sumitt racing 75mm throttle body, Magnaflow catback with Bassani X-pipe, chip and dyno tuned, 3:73 gears, B&M short shifter, FMS lowering springs and UPR caster camber plates, UPR upper/lower control arms, UPR subframe connectors. Kumho 275 up front/Kumho XS 315 in rear. Currently 420RWHP/435lbtq
-Daily Driver 04 Toyota Tacoma PreRunner, Blacked out, TRD suspension, K&N filter.
If you dont have any suspension parts yet start with some lowering springs from Eibach, H&R, or FMS just to name a couple brands. Then get yourself caster camber plates to adjust the front end alignment just to be safe. Welded in subframe connectors will tighten your ride up and help you handle better. Then after all this maybe some upper/lower control arms for the rear. With these suspension mods your stang will have a nice stance and will actually take some corners and handle a lot more power.
well put.
I have everything on the list but the subframes...
Time to spend some more $$$.
__________________
"Ignore that whistle, it's just a vacuum leak."
2000 Mustang GT:
Saleen Series IV Twin Screw, Chicane I/C, AFCO Extreme H/E, 2.8" pulley, FMS 42# injectors, Dual Catted 2 1/2" UPR X Pipe, UPR LCAs/UCAs, 2 1/2" Flowmaster American Thunder kit, 90mm LMAF, 112" Goodyear Gatorback, Kenne Bell BAP, Mosaleen idler, T-56, Detroit TrueTrac w/ 373s, Demolet 100mm CAI, SCT XCal2 with JDM Engineering 93 Octane "Race" tune.
very nice.. i was planning on putting 20in rims.. but i think that might be pushing it.. only reason that i was going to go with 20in is thats the smallest they sell in the rims i liked.. http://www.gcustoms.com/shared/46/Gi...-Black_450.jpg
Take my advise dont go with 20's stay within 17's to 18's..i have 18x9 front and 18x10 rear deep dish... they really look good and also have room to play with fatter and wider tires and lowering is just a thought without turning your wheel and rubing your tires..trust me with the power and all you want you going to have to go with some good radials and they are not cheap for some good ones and good ones whut you want like nitto and goodyear BFG and others that just a few..a buddy of mine went with 20's kept them on for about 3 months and sold and bought some 17x9 and 17x10.5..take my advise man but just my opinion
my brother was giving me the same advice.. i was just being hard headed and not trying to listen to him.. who makes really nice offset rims.. i like the 5 spoke look.. i have 17's on that are really nice looking but they are all chrome.. my car when out of the shop is going to be satin black.. so i was looking for more of a machine flat black look.. thanks again
i would go with black on black then or maybe the black/chrome with the lip being chrome and the spokes being black they really look good on black and yellow mustangs no doubt..
