go u tube and search mustang exhausts and you will be able to hear the different sounds of each set up i went to my local muffler shop and had him make me a custom x pipe and the whole set up from the manifolds back with flowmaster 40's cost me $335 installed and sounds sweet
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2003 gt auto , CAI,UDP'S,BAMACHIPS Custom Tune, Accufab 70mm TB and plenum,Eibach Pro Springs,4;10 Gears,Custom XPipe,40series Flowmasters,MSD blaster COPs
Think of it as a system, with long tube headers and h or X pipe the engine will breathe better, hi flow cats work fine and keep the liberals off your rear end, whether you live where there is inspection or not may dictate which mid pipe you get, catted or not, from there, any muffler shop can intall the headers and mid pipe, they are made for each other due to the length..I have BBK long tubes and hi flow cats on my Cobra, 40 flows, it sounds fab, not too loud, but when you hit it, everyone knows that's a hi performance car...
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"Goose, Hollywood's fine, I want Viper"
1995 Mustang GT Cnv 347(427 stroker being built!) almost done!
1996 Cobra with Kenne Bell 2.1 Supercharger and every other conceivable part you can bolt on it...650hp upgrade in the works
2003 Infiniti M45 V8 340 hp...a methadone treatment for reformed Mustang drivers
Shorty refers to the stock length headers, aftermarket shorty headers join the mid pipe at the same point. If you plan on doing long tubes later I'd do the mid pipe then. You should also get a catback first. If you go with an offroad style pipe, you will need either mil eliminators or a tuner to turn off the rear O2 sensors, all they do is monitor cat efficiency, the front ones determine fuel mixture. The install is pretty simple, but requires some tools you may not have... you'll need a jack and stands, 3/8" and 1/2" ratchets, sockets, and extensions, and a breaker bar. A 3/8" impact swivel makes it much much easier, and you'll want some pb blaster or the like to help break loose the bolts. If you do a search on here you should find a detailed write-up, I know I posted a step by step a few months ago, or pm me and I'll send it to you if you can't find it.
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That hunk of junk? Yeah, well I've made a few special modifications to that yellow 99 Gt, it makes the Kessel run in 12 parsecs and eats turbo japs and poops chevy's
no you dont have to get both if you want you can get a mid pipe and keep your stock manifolds just make sure you get a midpipe that is the right size so that it works with your stock manifolds on my 03 gt i have an offroad or catless x pipe with factory manifolds and 40series flowmasters and it sounds great
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2003 gt auto , CAI,UDP'S,BAMACHIPS Custom Tune, Accufab 70mm TB and plenum,Eibach Pro Springs,4;10 Gears,Custom XPipe,40series Flowmasters,MSD blaster COPs
What does cost look like to have mid pipes put on at a shop?
(Because somebody before said I'd need special tools, however I also heard it was an easy popping out and popping the new one back in; yes I have access to a lift)r
Thanks again everybody.
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40th Anniv. Black GT
K&N CAI, Stage 2 Clutch, 4.10s, Hypertech Tuner
That's all I've figured out how to do so far!
I just did BBK Ceramic Long Tube Headers and H-pipe w/ O2 simulators with Magnaflow Catbacks on my 98 cobra convert. (I LOVE THE DEEP CLASSIC MUSCLE CAR SOUND. If you go with headers... no matter what brand (get long tube headers) you want regret it. It's at least 10 hp over shorty headers and the sound you get combined with the exhaust is FANTastic.
If you decide to go w. uncatted you will need to go with eliminators just to keep the engine light off and engine running right.
MILS are only needed to keep the check engine light off. I don't think NOT having them there when running an offroad pipe will affect engine performance.
What does cost look like to have mid pipes put on at a shop?
(Because somebody before said I'd need special tools, however I also heard it was an easy popping out and popping the new one back in; yes I have access to a lift)r
Thanks again everybody.
if you have access to a lift your pretty much set ...its about as easy as your oil ....if you have an extra set of hand around to help def doesnt hurt
H will be the loudest (not by much but Db wise it is)
X sounds really nice and exotic
start with getting your car on the lift at a comfortable height .....unplug the O2 sensors (4 of them) you will see them i recommend having a small flat head screw driver to help you unclip them ......then unbolt the 4 bolts closest to the rear axle have someone hold that end just incase but it should stay.....next do the driver side after those 2 bolts are loosened move to the forthest passenger side bolt (farthest from the engine) do that one ....next it the hardest part .....you might need a swivel headed socket and DONT HIT THE STARTER!!!!!!!!!!!!! i cant emphasive this enough hahhaha........once you get the last bolt out (8 total) u can remove it (that helper comes in handy the stock mid pipe it pretty effing heavy)....if u get an X do it in reverse but there will be an extra spot to connect(you will understand if u get a 2 peice x) you will need to connect them before u connect the 4 bolts closest to the axle .....same with an h pipe only they just slide together and sinch down
as for a brand you def want to get a name brand and you get what you paid for (excapt bassani i hear but i cant speak from exp)
i like BBK decent price complete kits UPR is good too ...i have an x pipe from them for sale if you interested i prefered the sound of an h pipe .....idk if itll fit you car though
sorry for the long winded spelling error lack of punctuation ....i just did this 4 weeks ago pm me if you need any help or question (esp regard the MIL eliminator)
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'96 White Gt 5spd some mods
'86 Brown f150 4x4 XLT Larait Auto
id rather be a smart feller then a fart smeller