I bought infinity's mids rated up to 180 watts from crutchfield, installed them today and am extremly disappointed. THey bottom out everytime my alpine H.U sends a low signal. Worst part, that was only while listening to country music, I cant imagine returning to school next year and bottoming out the entire time Im listening to music in the pakring lot. The tech. said Id have to "break them in". Anyone ever heard of such a thing?? With a vert. and magnaflows it hard to be "easy" on them for the "break in period". The stock 460 mids bass'd better than these.
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Last edited by MustDangRider; 06-17-2009 at 09:54 PM.
Reason: attached wrong pic form
I just bought a set of infinities for the doors and rear, they sound awesome, I've never heard of "breaking in" a speaker and cant imagine what would need to be broken in o.O . Its basically a finely wraped wire around a magnet reverbing off a cone of material.
Seems like you A) have a problem with your amp sending the wrong signal. B) have a malfuntioning set. C) are trying to exceed the intended wattage.
Another thing might be if you are using the stock amps and an aftermarket headunit, the stock amps are pretty crappy and cant handle much of a workload, I replaced mine and am now using a kenwood amplifier. If you also bought another headunit, depending on the model there can be a major power discrepancy between the headunit and the amp, my headunit is only 280W base power, but I belive the stock amps only handle about 120W (max) before starting to go haywire.
Call crutchfield and see if you can RMA them back or something, or call infinity and see if you can get a new set. Mine came with a 2 year warranty, but I bought them at Best Buy.
Id definatly try and get a new set, because the sound quality of these babies are fantastic. Out of the speakers I've bought for my past 3 stangs, these are the best. Good luck man.
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2000 GT
Delta flows, full X pipe, BBK long tube headers, Steeda CAI, Tokico adjustable suspension, 3.73 gears, steeda pro short shifter, 17/9 front 17/12 drag radials, mishimoto aluminum radiator, 70mm throttle body (75mm Debating on charging it), 46lb injectors.
Last edited by Ben2000GT; 06-18-2009 at 02:20 AM.
Reason: 2 am... cant spell... ZZzzZZzz
I just bought a set of infinities for the doors and rear, they sound awesome, I've never heard of "breaking in" a speaker and cant imagine what would need to be broken in o.O . Its basically a finely wraped wire around a magnet reverbing off a cone of material.
Seems like you A) have a problem with your amp sending the wrong signal. B) have a malfuntioning set. C) are trying to exceed the intended wattage.
Another thing might be if you are using the stock amps and an aftermarket headunit, the stock amps are pretty crappy and cant handle much of a workload, I replaced mine and am now using a kenwood amplifier. If you also bought another headunit, depending on the model there can be a major power discrepancy between the headunit and the amp, my headunit is only 280W base power, but I belive the stock amps only handle about 120W (max) before starting to go haywire.
Call crutchfield and see if you can RMA them back or something, or call infinity and see if you can get a new set. Mine came with a 2 year warranty, but I bought them at Best Buy.
Id definatly try and get a new set, because the sound quality of these babies are fantastic. Out of the speakers I've bought for my past 3 stangs, these are the best. Good luck man.
I think Im gonna take your advice and call straight up to infinity. Logically the speakers should sound best brand new, and the fool on the phone over at crutchfield tried telling me that a speaker is basically a electric motor. I think hes trying to hold me over till the return policy expires. Im disappointed
I've heard about subwoofer break in periods. It's not about the coil, I think it's more about the rubber that mates the cone to the frame. But even then, I don't think you would be getting the problem you're describing. Make sure if you have an aftermarket head unit you buy the Scosche box that lowers the output from the stereo. Aftermarket head units put out anywhere from 25-100watts per channel. The factory head unit only sends like 5 watts per channel to the amps because it's only a signal for the amp. You can damage the factory amps sending 50 watts into an amp rated for 5 watts input. That could be your problem.
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C&L 80mm mass air and True Flow pipe, Mac CAI, BBK 65mm tb, Steeda non-piggy back ud pulleys, MGW shifter, RAM HD clutch and aluminum flywheel, 3:73 gears, 2.5" Dynomax o/r x pipe, 3" MAC cat back system w/ 3 1/2" tips, Kenny Brown(front and rear strut tower brace, caster plates, subframe connectors,extreme matrix brace,jacking rails, torque brace, lowering springs), Bilstein shocks, 03-04 Cobra(side scoops, rear bumper cover, top), 6pt roll cage, white FR500's, FMS 2000 Cobra R air dam.
Good mids are not made to play the low signals, that what a sub is for, you should try readjusting your head unit, the better speakers don't need the bass to be turned up so high, best way is to set everything to 0, put the volume a little louder than you listen to, and adjust in small increments for the best sound quality. And maybe try some real music when you play country backwards a man gets his wife and dog back, and his pickup starts running. To each their own, but country's not my thing.
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That hunk of junk? Yeah, well I've made a few special modifications to that yellow 99 Gt, it makes the Kessel run in 12 parsecs and eats turbo japs and poops chevy's
I just boxed em up, I have the shipping label here in my lab and Im going downstairs to tape it onto the box so I can return them. I paid $139 and after the 8 dollar fee for the shipping sticker thing and the $15 per box that needs to be replaced thanks to my girlfriend ripping them up Ill be lucky to get $100 back. This is the worst experience Ive had with crutchfield especially after I spoke with a "specialist" who said these speakers would handle all the power my H.U could throw at it. Theyre rated at 180W Id revise that back to say 40??
The $100 is going towards subs btw!! Im lookin at a 1500W Alpine type R 10" that Ill pair with an MTX mono 1000W 2ohm amp.
I tell ya, I put in a nice Kenwood head unit in my car. I also installed that Scosche box that lowers the output wattage of the speakers so the factory amps can handle it. I added one Kicker 12" sub, and Sony Xplod amp in the trunk. The box is sealed , and is filled with polyfoam(pillow stuffing). My stereo has a built in crossover, and it's all set correctly. I use all the factory amps and speaker, and added the sub for extra bump. I think it sounds awesome. Nice thump, and really good quailty sound. I think the factory Mach460 does well if you know how to accent it. If you have any questions about what I explained in the 2 posts on here, pm me. I'm 34yo and I've been installing car stereos since I was 14. I'd be glad to help you out.
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C&L 80mm mass air and True Flow pipe, Mac CAI, BBK 65mm tb, Steeda non-piggy back ud pulleys, MGW shifter, RAM HD clutch and aluminum flywheel, 3:73 gears, 2.5" Dynomax o/r x pipe, 3" MAC cat back system w/ 3 1/2" tips, Kenny Brown(front and rear strut tower brace, caster plates, subframe connectors,extreme matrix brace,jacking rails, torque brace, lowering springs), Bilstein shocks, 03-04 Cobra(side scoops, rear bumper cover, top), 6pt roll cage, white FR500's, FMS 2000 Cobra R air dam.
I think your problem is more with the head unit than the speakers, infinity makes some good products. I have a pretty unique setup in mine, part of which is infinity perfect 5.1 in the kick panel, the clarity and quality is unbeleivable, and no distortion even when its louder than my ears can take. They match very well with my 12, probably the best mid-range speakers I've ever heard.
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That hunk of junk? Yeah, well I've made a few special modifications to that yellow 99 Gt, it makes the Kessel run in 12 parsecs and eats turbo japs and poops chevy's
I tell ya, I put in a nice Kenwood head unit in my car. I also installed that Scosche box that lowers the output wattage of the speakers so the factory amps can handle it. I added one Kicker 12" sub, and Sony Xplod amp in the trunk. The box is sealed , and is filled with polyfoam(pillow stuffing). My stereo has a built in crossover, and it's all set correctly. I use all the factory amps and speaker, and added the sub for extra bump. I think it sounds awesome. Nice thump, and really good quailty sound. I think the factory Mach460 does well if you know how to accent it. If you have any questions about what I explained in the 2 posts on here, pm me. I'm 34yo and I've been installing car stereos since I was 14. I'd be glad to help you out.
I appreciate the offer and may have to take you up on that. How well do you think these two will pair together? I want the deepest bass possible. Id really like to dynamat the entire car and set of car alarms down the block if need be.THe only audio system Ive ever really like was in my friends Magnum he had 4000Watts of bass and 1200 in mids.
...when you play country backwards a man gets his wife and dog back, and his pickup starts running.
That's one of my favorite jokes ever! And I do like country music, at least the bit in the 90's where it got away from whiny/twangy "classic" country, and before it got "pop" and over produced, like it is now.
And George Jones' "The King Is Gone (and So Are You)" is still an awesome song, no matter who you are.
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2005 Mustang GT in Torch Red
C&L Cold Air Intake/Diablosport Predator Tune
Tokico D-Spec Shocks & Struts
Steeda Sport Springs/Front and Rear Swaybar/Front Swaybar Brace/LCAs/Adjustable Panhard Bar and Brace
Steeda-branded Borla Stingers
Steeda Underdrive Pullies
1965 "GT" Logo and some other chrome bits
That's allot more amp than you need for one sub. If you look at them both, the sub is 500w rms, and the amp is 1000w rms. If you find an amp with an rms around 500w you'll be fine. And if you go with a 10" sub, you won't get quite as much bass as a 12" sub. It's not that much different but there is a difference. If memory serves my Kicker 12" sub is a 600w rms, and my amps rms was something like 800w rms. With the top up, the preout to the amp is turned to like -9 to -11. If my top is down, I turn it to somewhere around -5 to-7. Even set like that I can bounce a quarter on the trunk. I didn't even want that much bass, I just wanted a little more than the Mach460 put out. In all my years of working on stereos, I learned that more is not nesessarily better. Set up is the key.
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C&L 80mm mass air and True Flow pipe, Mac CAI, BBK 65mm tb, Steeda non-piggy back ud pulleys, MGW shifter, RAM HD clutch and aluminum flywheel, 3:73 gears, 2.5" Dynomax o/r x pipe, 3" MAC cat back system w/ 3 1/2" tips, Kenny Brown(front and rear strut tower brace, caster plates, subframe connectors,extreme matrix brace,jacking rails, torque brace, lowering springs), Bilstein shocks, 03-04 Cobra(side scoops, rear bumper cover, top), 6pt roll cage, white FR500's, FMS 2000 Cobra R air dam.
Breaking in speakers?? 
, installed them today and am extremly disappointed. THey bottom out everytime my alpine H.U sends a low signal. Worst part, that was only while listening to country music, I cant imagine returning to school next year and bottoming out the entire time Im listening to music in the pakring lot. The tech. said Id have to "break them in". Anyone ever heard of such a thing?? With a vert. and magnaflows it hard to be "easy" on them for the "break in period". The stock 460 mids bass'd better than these.
when you play country backwards a man gets his wife and dog back, and his pickup starts running. To each their own, but country's not my thing.
