Alright guys, lets see if you can help me out. I currently have the Symco Silver Series Gauge Cluster in my 03 GT and they have been awesome up until recently. A few weeks ago they were working fine then all of a sudden they started to flicker off then back on. They were fine for another day or so then all of a sudden they just stopped working. Randomly after that they would flicker on and off then work again after a while. Now they seem to work more than they don't, back to mostly working then flickering off now and then. I checked the headlight switch, took the cluster out and took it apart but couldnt find any obvious problems with wiring or anything. All of the other stock bulbs on the cluster work no problem also. I really dont want to have to buy a new cluster or take it to the jerks at the dealership that overcharge everything. I do have a warranty on electronic components for my car, but that is not my first option. any experience with a similar problem??? If so please help me!!!
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2003 Mustang GT, Green Performance Air Filter with stock tubing and air box, Ford Racing 70mm Throttle Body, C&L Trueflow Upper Intake Plenum, Pypes Violator cat back, 3.73 gears, Diablosport Predator Tuner, Tri-ax Shifter, Steeda UDP's, Mach 1 chin spoiler, Mach 1 grille delete, H&R lowering springs, Simco Gauge Cluster, Bullitt pedals
check your ground by using a Continuity Tester! try to catch it on a day its not working. These testers work by testing to see if your circuit is properly grounded!
yea thats what i figured i had to do. what wire should i be testing? should i test at the headlight switch or the power source for the gauge lights? which color wire is the ground wire from the cluster? there are two wire harnesses going to the cluster so i want to know which one to test. also what setting should i have set on the multimeter when i am testing the wiring? this isn't the biggest problem in the world since i have an led flashlight set up on my steering wheel to illuminate the gauges when they are off, but i would like to diagnose the problem myself.
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2003 Mustang GT, Green Performance Air Filter with stock tubing and air box, Ford Racing 70mm Throttle Body, C&L Trueflow Upper Intake Plenum, Pypes Violator cat back, 3.73 gears, Diablosport Predator Tuner, Tri-ax Shifter, Steeda UDP's, Mach 1 chin spoiler, Mach 1 grille delete, H&R lowering springs, Simco Gauge Cluster, Bullitt pedals
well your positive wire is usually any color(mostly red) but very rarely white or black or green. your negative or ground will either be black, green or bare wire. first step is to test the gauge cluster for power. if you have power up to the gauges(12-14v) but the gauges wont light you know its either a bulb or internal problem. (at this point if you see that the gauges light but are dim or flicker on and off than you know that your problem is either poor connections or a short in the wire or a bad ground. the next step is to test your wires feeding the cluster, both positive and negative. remove you positive from both the power side and from the gauges. remove your ground from both the chasis or bare metal location and from the gauges. now by taking a multimeter turn it to the simble that looks like a (((. now if you touch both ends of your leads on the meter together you should either see 0.00v appear or you should hear a beep. ****note everytime you see 0.00v or hear the beep you now that the wire you tested is solid and has no breaks in the line. if you hear a beep or a 0.00v, but it doest stay on and cycles on and off, you know that there is a fault in the wire. now that you know this take your positive line(disconnected from all power and equipment) and but one end of your meter on one side and one on the other. repeat for negative. if you have a break in the wire replace it. if the wire is fine, reconnect it. please let me know how this works. i have more ideas if not, but this is usually the most common.
alright, so my gauge lights have been working without error for the most part now without error, except for a few random flickers or they turn off for a few seconds. From what I've read I think it being a ground wire issue is most likely. To diagnose this what steps should I follow? Out of the two wire harnesses feeding into the gauges which do I test and how? (ie. harness on the left behind the speedo and water temp, or on the right behind the tach and volt meter) excuse me for being kind of redundant with this question but I really want to do this right and go from there. When testing the ground what would I put the two terminals of the multimeter to to see if it is a bad ground, or...can I check to see if the ground wire is just loose? where does it run to and/or can I manually run a ground myself? thanks
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2003 Mustang GT, Green Performance Air Filter with stock tubing and air box, Ford Racing 70mm Throttle Body, C&L Trueflow Upper Intake Plenum, Pypes Violator cat back, 3.73 gears, Diablosport Predator Tuner, Tri-ax Shifter, Steeda UDP's, Mach 1 chin spoiler, Mach 1 grille delete, H&R lowering springs, Simco Gauge Cluster, Bullitt pedals
so they have been working without any problems now for about a week without any problems now, lol I still want to check out the grounding wire since I think thats the issue here...like in my previous post, what should I test and how?
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2003 Mustang GT, Green Performance Air Filter with stock tubing and air box, Ford Racing 70mm Throttle Body, C&L Trueflow Upper Intake Plenum, Pypes Violator cat back, 3.73 gears, Diablosport Predator Tuner, Tri-ax Shifter, Steeda UDP's, Mach 1 chin spoiler, Mach 1 grille delete, H&R lowering springs, Simco Gauge Cluster, Bullitt pedals
haha i laughed when i read this. ok ok ok. well simple if you think its a ground issue then you can always check to see if the ground is loose. also check to see if you are on corrosion or something other then BARE metal. Also check to see if that piece of metal is also properly grouned to the battery. remember that no matter where the ground on your gauge is it eventually has to lead to the negative side of the battery, and if something limits or prevents it, then a new ground placement is required
Gauge Lights Flicker On and Off 
I checked the headlight switch, took the cluster out and took it apart but couldnt find any obvious problems with wiring or anything. All of the other stock bulbs on the cluster work no problem also. I really dont want to have to buy a new cluster or take it to the jerks at the dealership that overcharge everything. I do have a warranty on electronic components for my car, but that is not my first option. 
any experience with a similar problem??? If so please help me!!!
I still want to check out the grounding wire since I think thats the issue here...like in my previous post, what should I test and how?
