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Old 10-14-2009   #1 (permalink)
sillyrabbit0420 is offline Made Member

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Aberdeen   North Carolina
Question 1999 GT S/C vacuum lines for bypass valve

One final question on the S/C install.
I'm almost done with my Vortech V1 install. I'm not sure on the best place to tee the Bypass valve into.

Vortech says this:

Route the vacuum line to the bypass valve and tee into the FMU vacuum line with the the supplied tee.

and then they say this:

Route the vacuum line from the bypass valve over to the fuel pressure sensor and tee into the vacuum line. Refer to figures on previous page.

The pictures on the previous page were taken from approximately 3 miles away and are ridiculous.

I'm guessing the fuel pressure sensor is mounted on the fuel rail and I see the vacuum lines going into it...the FMU I'm not sure on. I'm not even sure if the vacuum line needs to go to both of these components or only one. I'm happy with the install and parts, but Vortech's instructions suck.

Anyone have any advice? Also where should I tee my line for my boost guage?
All the vacuum lines I'm looking at are the red plastic tubing ones, and they're rather small. There's also another larger vacuum line on the back of the plenum that goes...I have no idea where.

A good description of the locations would be helpful. If anyone could take a look at their setup and tell me where their bypass line goes, I'd appreciate the hell out of it.

BTW...I googled/searched everywhere and couldn't find anything useful.
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'99 GT - My increasingly expensive DIY project car...
Vortech V1, Moser 31-spline axles, FRPP diff. w/ 4.10 gears, Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter, Shany Custom pipes, JBA shorty headers, Powerslot rotors, Tokico D-specs, H&R Sport Springs, Steeda Strut Brace, MM X-duty Lower Control Arms, Autometer Phantom Boost and Wideband AFR guage, Custom Rear seat delete, Royal Purple, NGK, BFG
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Old 10-15-2009   #2 (permalink)
mell0 is offline Made Member

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it's fine to "T" both of your fittings into one line. this makes for a much simpler/ easy install. both of them can t into the "fmu" ( i think) on the driver's side fuel rail. i have an attached picture of my setup (only difference is one of the fittings is for my kenne bell boost a pump vacuum switch. that's why it looks a little funky). i hope this helps!

oh and make sure to give extra attention to securing some of the vacuum fittings. i used zip ties and they have been holding fine with 10psi for 6 months.
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1999-gt-s-c-vacuum-lines-bypass-valve-4479_196558050045_687795045_6875728_625088_n.jpg  
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File Type: bmp vacuum lines.bmp (801.7 KB, 11 views)
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Procharged 2002 Mustang GT 5 Speed
351rwhp 353rwtq at 10psi

Next summer looking to go with:
Bilstien shocks + struts, Lowering springs (brand still TBD (any suggestions?)), MM CC plates, front + rear sway bars, subframes, and upper and lower control arms.
Time to make the pony ride some rails
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Old 10-15-2009   #3 (permalink)
sillyrabbit0420 is offline Made Member

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Aberdeen   North Carolina
Thumbs up Right on...

Sweet. Thanks for taking the time to post that pic. That's simple and easy enough, man. I appreciate it.

Thanks again!

-Sillyrabbit
__________________
'99 GT - My increasingly expensive DIY project car...
Vortech V1, Moser 31-spline axles, FRPP diff. w/ 4.10 gears, Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter, Shany Custom pipes, JBA shorty headers, Powerslot rotors, Tokico D-specs, H&R Sport Springs, Steeda Strut Brace, MM X-duty Lower Control Arms, Autometer Phantom Boost and Wideband AFR guage, Custom Rear seat delete, Royal Purple, NGK, BFG
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