I was thinking about changing out my thermostat from the stock 190 to a 180 because the car accerlerates a little better at a lower temp. what do you guys think on this????
It might help a little, just understand that in the summer, the car will still run at around 192*F or higher in hot weather. In the winter time my car runs 172-174 in closed loop with a 180*F thermostat, but in the summer with the stock radiator and 90+ weather, the A/C running, etc the car can run 200+*F.
__________________
"Ignore that whistle, it's just a vacuum leak."
2000 Mustang GT:
Saleen Series IV Twin Screw, Chicane I/C, AFCO Extreme H/E, 2.8" pulley, FMS 42# injectors, Dual Catted 2 1/2" UPR X Pipe, UPR LCAs/UCAs, 2 1/2" Flowmaster American Thunder kit, 90mm LMAF, 112" Goodyear Gatorback, Kenne Bell BAP, Mosaleen idler, T-56, Detroit TrueTrac w/ 373s, Demolet 100mm CAI, SCT XCal2 with JDM Engineering 93 Octane "Race" tune.
I was thinking about changing out my thermostat from the stock 190 to a 180 because the car accerlerates a little better at a lower temp. what do you guys think on this????
or maybe go lower to a 170?? would this then harmmy engine in any way?
A thermostat colder than 180*F in cold weather will cause the car to stay in "open" loop, to run very rich and get poor fuel mileage.
You have to put in a more efficient radiator and/or lower the radiator fan setpoint as well as run water wetter and other cooling mods to get the car to run cooler.
Just changing the thermostat will only make the thermostat open sooner, but the car will only run as cold as the efficiency of the radiator and cooling system allow.
__________________
"Ignore that whistle, it's just a vacuum leak."
2000 Mustang GT:
Saleen Series IV Twin Screw, Chicane I/C, AFCO Extreme H/E, 2.8" pulley, FMS 42# injectors, Dual Catted 2 1/2" UPR X Pipe, UPR LCAs/UCAs, 2 1/2" Flowmaster American Thunder kit, 90mm LMAF, 112" Goodyear Gatorback, Kenne Bell BAP, Mosaleen idler, T-56, Detroit TrueTrac w/ 373s, Demolet 100mm CAI, SCT XCal2 with JDM Engineering 93 Octane "Race" tune.
Agree... It won't really help it run any cooler. It just opens sooner. I had all kinds of fueling problems when I switched from 180 to 160.
I owned an 1989 LX 5.0 that the guy before me put in a 160*F thermostat, the car never ran right in cold weather and the heat was cold. I put in a 180*F thermostat, the car ran harder, had warmer heat and got much better fuel economy.
__________________
"Ignore that whistle, it's just a vacuum leak."
2000 Mustang GT:
Saleen Series IV Twin Screw, Chicane I/C, AFCO Extreme H/E, 2.8" pulley, FMS 42# injectors, Dual Catted 2 1/2" UPR X Pipe, UPR LCAs/UCAs, 2 1/2" Flowmaster American Thunder kit, 90mm LMAF, 112" Goodyear Gatorback, Kenne Bell BAP, Mosaleen idler, T-56, Detroit TrueTrac w/ 373s, Demolet 100mm CAI, SCT XCal2 with JDM Engineering 93 Octane "Race" tune.
I'm not sure what you have been told in the past but you should go back with a factory thermostat. It was beneficial with the 5.0 cars to go a tad colder. Today's cars with not come out of a start up loop if they never reach operating temp. This will effect gas mileage and performance negatively.
__________________
Your typical Terminator with all the usual mods Ford meant for you to do right after you left the showroom.
Don't run lower than a 180*F thermostat, but remember that controls at what temperature the thermostat opens, without other cooling system upgrades, your car will still run 192*F or higher as designed. In the winter though, it will run cooler.
I have my S/C'd car tuned for the 180*F thermostat and the car runs 170-174 in the winter and 190*F+ in the heat of summer with the A/C running.
My car runs closed loop and gets 25.5 mpg.
I did run the 180*F thermostat when my car was N/A without issues for about 4 years. Mileage did not change, the car ran in closed loop.
I did once have 5.0L Mustang someone had put in a 160*F thermostat. It ran poorly, never went into closed loop and got awful fuel mileage. I replaced it with a 180*F thermostat and it ran like a scalded dog.
__________________
"Ignore that whistle, it's just a vacuum leak."
2000 Mustang GT:
Saleen Series IV Twin Screw, Chicane I/C, AFCO Extreme H/E, 2.8" pulley, FMS 42# injectors, Dual Catted 2 1/2" UPR X Pipe, UPR LCAs/UCAs, 2 1/2" Flowmaster American Thunder kit, 90mm LMAF, 112" Goodyear Gatorback, Kenne Bell BAP, Mosaleen idler, T-56, Detroit TrueTrac w/ 373s, Demolet 100mm CAI, SCT XCal2 with JDM Engineering 93 Octane "Race" tune.
Don't run lower than a 180*F thermostat, but remember that controls at what temperature the thermostat opens, without other cooling system upgrades, your car will still run 192*F or higher as designed. In the winter though, it will run cooler.
I have my S/C'd car tuned for the 180*F thermostat and the car runs 170-174 in the winter and 190*F+ in the heat of summer with the A/C running.
My car runs closed loop and gets 25.5 mpg.
I did run the 180*F thermostat when my car was N/A without issues for about 4 years. Mileage did not change, the car ran in closed loop.
I did once have 5.0L Mustang someone had put in a 160*F thermostat. It ran poorly, never went into closed loop and got awful fuel mileage. I replaced it with a 180*F thermostat and it ran like a scalded dog.
Howdy fellow Tennessean. I always liked the 180s on 5.0 cars which is what I alluded to with my "tad" statement. In Illinois, I doubt he wants his heat to not run up to spec unless he never drives it in the winter. Your ride sounds super nice.
__________________
Your typical Terminator with all the usual mods Ford meant for you to do right after you left the showroom.
Hi, my car is the 'lil brother to the Terminator that should have been sold in showrooms.
I couldn't get any heat out of the 5.0L until I put the 180*F thermostat in it.
If he runs a 180*F thermostat in his car, he won't really notice a difference. Mine just ran a few degrees cooler in the winter only, it honestly made more of a difference on my 5.0L 89LX sport.
__________________
"Ignore that whistle, it's just a vacuum leak."
2000 Mustang GT:
Saleen Series IV Twin Screw, Chicane I/C, AFCO Extreme H/E, 2.8" pulley, FMS 42# injectors, Dual Catted 2 1/2" UPR X Pipe, UPR LCAs/UCAs, 2 1/2" Flowmaster American Thunder kit, 90mm LMAF, 112" Goodyear Gatorback, Kenne Bell BAP, Mosaleen idler, T-56, Detroit TrueTrac w/ 373s, Demolet 100mm CAI, SCT XCal2 with JDM Engineering 93 Octane "Race" tune.
Thermostat change?? 
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