Megabite SR LCA's set on 135% setting
BFG Drag Radials, worn slap out
Tunable Induction CAI
UPR offroad X
weld in flowmasters
Tuned
Since that run, I've added 4.10 gears, and I'm kind of going over what I want to do this weekend to help get me into the 12's with a bolt-on 2V. The engine is stock down to the intake and valve covers, and I want to get that 12 second n/a slip with that still being the case.
I know the 4.10's are going to get me fairly close, but maybe not where I need to be, so I'm going to add a few extras this weekend to help me get closer. Here's the plans:
First I need to do some maintenance, none of it is going to really help, but it will fix some outstanding problems, and give me some peace of mind. My K-Member is slightly crooked in the car. I am going to straighten it up, add my bumpsteer kit, and get the car realigned. I also need to finish welding up my torque box repair kit, to make sure it doesn't happen again.
I have been doing some research, and it seems that having the Megabites set on 135% could actually be hurting me instead of helping me at the track. It always seems that I don't have the traction I should, and my 60ft times show it. After reading some, it seems that some people have actually cut .2 off of their 60ft times by switching to the 85% setting, because it doesn't shock the tires so bad, and cause them to unload. So this weekend, I'm going to pull them out, put them at the 85% setting, and reset the pinion angle again. If I can put down a 1.6 60ft time, I will definately have my 12 second run.
I am also welding in a set of full length subframe connectors this weekend, to replace the bolt in ones that came in my car. I know, I know, it should have been done a long time ago, but it'll happen this weekend.
On Friday, I'm driving down to Holcomb to pick up a set of Strange 10 way adjustable shocks and struts. I'll play with them a bit at the track, but they have to be worth something at the track set on soft.
Then it's just wait for the new Drag Radials to get here. I think this time I'm going with the M&H Drag Radials to replace the BFGs. This should help with traction also.
Any comments? I'm looking forward to my next run at the track, and I think that I should get my 1st 12 second timeslip in this car the next time out with a little testing to get the traction right..
i think you will undoubtedly cut those .36 seconds off of your time. especially if you still have the stock 3.27s in there. people claim to cut off .5 with just 3:73s.
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Procharged 2002 Mustang GT 5 Speed 351rwhp 353rwtq at 10psi
Next summer looking to go with:
Bilstien shocks + struts, Lowering springs (brand still TBD (any suggestions?)), MM CC plates, front + rear sway bars, subframes, and upper and lower control arms.
Time to make the pony ride some rails
throwing this out there if you haven't already got one, when i put in my mgw short throw in mine it helped my times tremendously spending less time shifting. I remember my stock shifter in my bullitt pretty much sucked but that mgw sure made for some solids shifts on the track. Only other thing i can think of that might help out is a little weight reduction like getting some skinnies on the front.
But good luck on those twelves man, can't wait till my Bullitt sees them one day to when i can afford to play lol.
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I am the proudest member of the FIGHTIN' TEXAS AGGIE CLASS OF 2010, Whoop!! Thanks and Gig Em
-2001 Dark Highland Green Mustang Bullitt GT #3064: K&N Air filter, MGW short throw, MAC ceramic long tubes, GP o/r x pipe, Magnapacks, FRPP 3.73's, SCT SF3 Tuner
Yeah, I already have the MGW orange handle, it's one of the first things I bought for it.
Slicks and skinnies are in the future for it, but probably not until spring. I want to play with the suspension and bolt-ons as much as I can until then.
Trying to do this full weight with no power adder. I have thought about the electric waterpump for a future mod also. Just need to do some more research on it, since the car sees quite a bit of street duty.
I was just trying to get a 12 second timeslip with stock configuration suspension that is good on the street, and will take turns still, and on a completely stock engine. More for bragging rights, and just to prove to myself that I could do it......
12s with full weight AND no power adder?? im not sayin you CANT but if u do, WOW i will be very impressed
i can see you doin it without a power adder, but i was talkin like aluminum driveshaft flywheel etc, and all sorts of other stuff like tubular k-member... you know weight reduction... rear end stiffeners and subframes SHOULD take some flex out... but i dunno man sounds tough, but u could maybe do it
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"Its not about what you can BUY, its about what you can build" anyone can buy a really cool car, but u dont ever get the satisfaction from it as you would building it yourself 1994 Mustang GT 5.0/T5 Sold 1998 Mustang GT 4.6/T45 *soon 5.4 S/C* Flows cat-back, CAI, Ford Racing 3.73 gears, Torsen Diff, short throw shifter
12s with full weight AND no power adder?? im not sayin you CANT but if u do, WOW i will be very impressed
i can see you doin it without a power adder, but i was talkin like aluminum driveshaft flywheel etc, and all sorts of other stuff like tubular k-member... you know weight reduction... rear end stiffeners and subframes SHOULD take some flex out... but i dunno man sounds tough, but u could maybe do it
I don't see it being that tough, it's only .34, let's say I would need .4, I have seen many people pick up .3-.4 with just the gear change, I don't see my car being any different. Then add in the few other changes, and I don't see it being a problem at all.
Have you tryed adding any stickers or stripes? I was watching fast and the furious the other day and they said that you could add up to 150hp with the right sticker combo. A NOS decal could add 20hp just by itself!!!! lol
Sounds like your a man on a mission and to that I say godspeed bullitt, godspeed.
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01 red gt 5 spd, bassani catback, short shifter, bbk CAI, 3.90's, steeda sport springs, cobra R rims 17x9 255/40 front 275/40 rear and as long as the money keeps comin so will the parts ;p
You dont even have longtubes on yet do you? Thats nuts if you can hit 12's without slicks, and intake exhaust 4.10s and minor suspension upgrades. I think you definatley will, if you ran a 13.34 without the 4.10's and adjusting your control arms, you definatley will. Keep us posted man.
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2003 Mustang GT Redfire 1/4 Mile - 13.408 @ 103.10mph | 60 Foot - 1.934 261rwhp & 284rwtq Tuned by Mike Dez @ Dez Racing
4.10's, SLP LM 1 Catback, Mac o/r Prochamber, K&N FIPK II CAI(painted red), MAC 70mm TB, C&L Plenum, Diablo Predator Tune, B&M Short Throw Shifter, Mach 1 Chin Spoiler, Mach 1 Grill Delete Next Mods - Saving for a Procharger :)
I have longtubes, sitting in the garage in the box.......lol
To be honest, I don't have any special mods. With the same horsepower, and the same mods, minus drag radials and some driving practice, my car ran 13.8's. Adding the drag radials alone netted me 13.4's. More practice driving, and cooler air, and 13.3's were the norm.
A friend of mine has an Automatic GT, and with stock tires, stock gears and converter, with exhaust, tune, cai, throttle body and elbow ran 13.6's. Swapped to 3.73's and ran 13.4's. Him and I go to the track and shake our heads when we see Mustangs running 13.9-14.2's with the same or more mods than we have.
I really think it's all about learning how your car wants to be driven, not how you want to drive it.
BTW: My car dynos at 265rwhp, 296rwtq, so it's not a freak or anything.
With the gears you should be there. Just work on your driving (the driver mod is the most overlooked and important thing) play with the pressure in those drag radials, and do a long enough burnout to make sure they're hot, but I think if you drive well you should have no trouble hitting a 12 second timeslip.
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That hunk of junk? Yeah, well I've made a few special modifications to that yellow 99 Gt, it makes the Kessel run in 12 parsecs and eats turbo japs and poops chevy's
My quest for a 12 second timeslip continues... 
Thanks and Gig Em
