alright so when I go over about 90-95 mph, I start to hear a little vibrating noise. It doesnt shake the car or anything, but there is a distinct vibrating sound. Is this normal? could it possibly be road vibrations? maybe the alignment is off? it is not all that loud or intense, just a kind of humming noise that sounds like its coming from the wheels. any of you know what is causing this? i rarely exceed 90 mph but when I do I hear this humming noise. any ideas of what this is? if its something I need to know about, I want to fix it. thanks
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2003 Mustang GT, Green Performance Air Filter with stock tubing and air box, Ford Racing 70mm Throttle Body, C&L Trueflow Upper Intake Plenum, Pypes Violator cat back, 3.73 gears, Diablosport Predator Tuner, Tri-ax Shifter, Steeda UDP's, Mach 1 chin spoiler, Mach 1 grille delete, H&R lowering springs, Symco Gauge Cluster, Bullitt pedals
not sure, my car has about 62,500 miles and had 1 previous owner. as far as I know he treated the car right, and took care of it. what is the duration of U-joints, and when do I have to start looking at them for wear and possible replacement? it doesnt happen at all under these speeds, and even over 95 mph the car still handles well and has no noticeable faults besides this vibrating sound. it isnt all that intense like I said. It sounds like road vibrations, but I like to take good care of my car and want to keep notice of any developing problems. if I can I'll record this sound to show what I'm talking about. It is really only this humming sound that sounds like road vibrations, but I would rather be safe than sorry. I first want to say it might be an alignment issue, but thats me being a bit cautious.
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2003 Mustang GT, Green Performance Air Filter with stock tubing and air box, Ford Racing 70mm Throttle Body, C&L Trueflow Upper Intake Plenum, Pypes Violator cat back, 3.73 gears, Diablosport Predator Tuner, Tri-ax Shifter, Steeda UDP's, Mach 1 chin spoiler, Mach 1 grille delete, H&R lowering springs, Symco Gauge Cluster, Bullitt pedals
I dont often peel out or beat on my car. I use this car as a commuter and drive about 100 miles a day highway mileage, so its easy miles. I havent brought it to the track yet, and rarely race from a stop. I honestly cannot say what the previous owner did to it when he owned it, but it was in excellent condition when I bought it and only had 42,000 miles on it. how easy is it to wear U-joints, and when are the usual replacements for them? also, is this a common thing for U-joints to cause this slight vibration/humming noise?
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2003 Mustang GT, Green Performance Air Filter with stock tubing and air box, Ford Racing 70mm Throttle Body, C&L Trueflow Upper Intake Plenum, Pypes Violator cat back, 3.73 gears, Diablosport Predator Tuner, Tri-ax Shifter, Steeda UDP's, Mach 1 chin spoiler, Mach 1 grille delete, H&R lowering springs, Symco Gauge Cluster, Bullitt pedals
I dont often peel out or beat on my car. I use this car as a commuter and drive about 100 miles a day highway mileage, so its easy miles. I havent brought it to the track yet, and rarely race from a stop. I honestly cannot say what the previous owner did to it when he owned it, but it was in excellent condition when I bought it and only had 42,000 miles on it. how easy is it to wear U-joints, and when are the usual replacements for them? also, is this a common thing for U-joints to cause this slight vibration/humming noise?
Yes they can cause a vibration. A quick check is to jack up the car, get jack stands, put the car in neutral so that you can move the driveshaft and keep your eyes on the u-joint itself. If it has any movement whatsoever it needs replacing. You can get ones that have grease fittings on them which is what I would go with if yours doesn't have any. As far as how long they can last, well that depends on the condition of how heavy the previous drivers foot was. If it is bad I wouldn't try changing it yourself. In my past experience as a Ford mechanic I've seen other mechanics have a hard time with them.
SLOW DOWN! Damn whipper-snappers. Also check the angles on your driveshaft it might be slightly out of phase. This link is for an IRS setup but the same principals apply: Driveline Alignment.
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2001 SVT Cobra coupe mineral gray 18x9 18x10.5 Bullits BBK CIA MGW short throw FRPP cat back exhuast MM IRS bushing upgrade
if the car was peeled out in, even sparingly, stock u joints can suffer.
What are you basing this on? Aren't you the guy who's paranoid about flooring the throttle?
I peel out sparingly, with the original stock u-joints, and I get into the throttle regularly. I just installed headers and checked some other things out while I was under there. U-joints are fine.
It's great to contribute some information, and yeah, U-joints can go bad if you abuse your car, but it's not like a few burnouts will immediately trash your driveline.
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'99 GT -All work done By Myself and damn proud of it... Vortech V1, Moser 31-spline axles, FRPP diff. w/ 4.10 gears, Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter, Shany Custom pipes, JBA shorty headers, Powerslot rotors, Tokico D-specs, H&R Sport Springs, Steeda Strut Brace, MM X-duty Lower Control Arms, Autometer Boost and wideband AFR guage, Royal Purple, NGK, BFG
SLOW DOWN! Damn whipper-snappers. Also check the angles on your driveshaft it might be slightly out of phase. This link is for an IRS setup but the same principals apply: Driveline Alignment.
Not saying that this is the problem. Just something to check. Been a mechanic and I have seen stuff like this that has been overlooked as I mentioned in the previous post and happened to be the cause. I've seen brand new trucks come to the dealership with dented driveshafts which throws off the balance as well which isn't krackstangs problem due to no shaking issues. Could be something simple as low diff fluid (as far as the humming noise goes)
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"My best friend is the one who brings out the best in me." - Henry Ford
"If a guy is over 25 percent jerk, he's in trouble and Henry was 95 percent." - Lee Iacocca
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im basing my opinions, not on my paranoia but on facts
cars werent built for the kind of shock peeling out provides
its kinda like running world of warcraft on a $400 computer, they werent built for that, and thus wont run it well and may even crash, or break as in a mustang
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its kinda like running world of warcraft on a $400 computer, they werent built for that, and thus wont run it well and may even crash, or break as in a mustang
I know how that is. Freakin 4 year old computer with a 1 GB ram chip. Pfff stupid Emachine
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"My best friend is the one who brings out the best in me." - Henry Ford
"If a guy is over 25 percent jerk, he's in trouble and Henry was 95 percent." - Lee Iacocca
"No car with my name on the hood is going to have a Jap engine inside." - Henry Ford II
im basing my opinions, not on my paranoia but on facts
cars werent built for the kind of shock peeling out provides
its kinda like running world of warcraft on a $400 computer, they werent built for that, and thus wont run it well and may even crash, or break as in a mustang
Did you just make an analogy between peeling out in a Mustang and playing World of Warcraft?! Touche! Well done, good sir!
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2001 SVT Cobra coupe mineral gray 18x9 18x10.5 Bullits BBK CIA MGW short throw FRPP cat back exhuast MM IRS bushing upgrade
hahaha...really? my thread has come to a WoW reference? lol well done tho...I know how that feels. Im just going to check out the U joint and driveshaft to see if I can notice anything, then go from there. thanks for the suggestions
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2003 Mustang GT, Green Performance Air Filter with stock tubing and air box, Ford Racing 70mm Throttle Body, C&L Trueflow Upper Intake Plenum, Pypes Violator cat back, 3.73 gears, Diablosport Predator Tuner, Tri-ax Shifter, Steeda UDP's, Mach 1 chin spoiler, Mach 1 grille delete, H&R lowering springs, Symco Gauge Cluster, Bullitt pedals
is it just a vibrating NOISE, or a VIBRATION?? sorry, i'm a little bit lost. WoW is boring as heck btw. I just got forza 3, and call of duty modern warfare 2, now those are some b!tc#!n games!