SHELBY GT 350 Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Location: see user name
How many miles are on the car? Might be best to go ahead with a new clutch while you have it all apart.
My car, at probably about 79K the tob started making a really faint and intermittent amount of noise. By the time it hit 82K the bearing was done, it had become an unbearable screaming sound that only stopped when I shut the engine off, the clutch pedal felt ratchety and I was beginning to have disengagement issues. Long story short I just replaced everything in there. The factory clutch was still at about 50%. For me, the decision to do it all came down to two things; 1) I just wanted it to be right and not have to worry about it again for hopefully a long time to come, and 2) the labor between the two is more or less identical. Most shops charge 4 hrs labor for clutch replacement, and to do the bearing only I would have only been saving myself about 1 hr at the most in labor charges.
So my advice is, unless you're really in a pinch for money then just go ahead and do it right the first time. Unless that bearing is just flat out screaming then you should have a little time to get your finances in order.
As far as a recommendation for new clutch goes, I did a SPEC stage 1 (think it's rated for somewhere near 400 ft/lbs tq if I remember correctly) and also upgraded the flywheel to billet aluminum. Had it in there for 18K now and no complaints. It's slightly grabbier than stock, pedal feel and effort is identical to stock. Think the clutch kit from AM was like $240, f/w was another $300. Of course the f/w is completely optional, I only did it because I felt like 'well what the hell, let's go crazy'. Otherwise just have your stock f/w resurfaced. Another thing regarding tob's is, best policy is to get an oem one from dealership or FRPP. The aftermarket bearings supplied with most clutch kits are somewhat notorious for premature failure. I didn't know this when I did all my stuff and so the one that came with my clutch is in there and is holding up fine, but if you read product reviews over at AM's site there are a fair amount of complaints regarding this. Also highly recommended with all of this stuff is a new quadrant/cable/firewall adjuster. Don't know if that last one is 100% necessary but after doing some research it seemed like it was the best way to go.
2001 GT Convertible
All the usual bolt-on's /200 I6, C4
And a few Explorers too... 2008 4.0 XLT 4x2, 1996 XLT 5.0 4x2, 2003 Sport Trac XLT 4.0 4x4