Throw out bearing? - Ford Mustang Forums
 
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-18-2012 Thread Starter
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Throw out bearing?

I have been getting an annoying squeak like an old bicycle noise coming from the transmission. At first I thought it was a belt but I quickly dismissed that. I'm guessing its the throw out bearing. My question is would it be fine to just replace the bearings (pilot and throw) and not the clutch? The clutch feels absolutely fine. That damn squeak is just annoying! Anyone know about the cost as well?

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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-18-2012
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How many miles are on the car? Might be best to go ahead with a new clutch while you have it all apart.

My car, at probably about 79K the tob started making a really faint and intermittent amount of noise. By the time it hit 82K the bearing was done, it had become an unbearable screaming sound that only stopped when I shut the engine off, the clutch pedal felt ratchety and I was beginning to have disengagement issues. Long story short I just replaced everything in there. The factory clutch was still at about 50%. For me, the decision to do it all came down to two things; 1) I just wanted it to be right and not have to worry about it again for hopefully a long time to come, and 2) the labor between the two is more or less identical. Most shops charge 4 hrs labor for clutch replacement, and to do the bearing only I would have only been saving myself about 1 hr at the most in labor charges.

So my advice is, unless you're really in a pinch for money then just go ahead and do it right the first time. Unless that bearing is just flat out screaming then you should have a little time to get your finances in order.

As far as a recommendation for new clutch goes, I did a SPEC stage 1 (think it's rated for somewhere near 400 ft/lbs tq if I remember correctly) and also upgraded the flywheel to billet aluminum. Had it in there for 18K now and no complaints. It's slightly grabbier than stock, pedal feel and effort is identical to stock. Think the clutch kit from AM was like $240, f/w was another $300. Of course the f/w is completely optional, I only did it because I felt like 'well what the hell, let's go crazy'. Otherwise just have your stock f/w resurfaced. Another thing regarding tob's is, best policy is to get an oem one from dealership or FRPP. The aftermarket bearings supplied with most clutch kits are somewhat notorious for premature failure. I didn't know this when I did all my stuff and so the one that came with my clutch is in there and is holding up fine, but if you read product reviews over at AM's site there are a fair amount of complaints regarding this. Also highly recommended with all of this stuff is a new quadrant/cable/firewall adjuster. Don't know if that last one is 100% necessary but after doing some research it seemed like it was the best way to go.


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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-18-2012
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well whatever you decide make sure you use a OEM Ford throwout bearing...it can squeek for months but will fail sooner or later...I have a Fidanza 2.1 clutch, works great, feels like stock, paid about $250 for the set/bearing...labor can vary greatly just depends on who does it...$1000+ at the dealer, local <acronym title="transmission">tranny</acronym> shop? Would be less..might call a few for quotes
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-18-2012 Thread Starter
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Always good information here. Thanks guys. I'm going to just get it all done. Fly wheel surfaced. I always try to replace with Ford OEM parts. What about the clutch fork, should I replace?

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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-18-2012
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Shouldn't need to replace the fork. If you get it all apart and find out it's bent or something (which is kinda rare) it's a fairly readily available and inexpensive part, but I wouldn't get one unless you find out you need one.


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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-18-2012 Thread Starter
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Thanks, SoCal.

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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-19-2012
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Also check the pivet ball that the fork sites on, sometimes they can get pitted or damaged. And I got the Spec stage 1 kit and for some reason mine feels really stiff put so did the clutch that was in their before so maybe my cable is pinched. But the TOB that came with the kit started to sqeak just weeks after I put it in and it still does it 10-15,000 miles later every once in a while.

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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-20-2012
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I had mine replaced at 120k. 2,000 miles into it the bearing is going out. Go with the OEM bearing from ford. I learnt the hard way. Have not had the time to fix it yet so its still making sounds. My clutch fork was bent all to H*** when i replaced mine and the bearing on the fork was what was making the noise and not the bearing when i essentially had it replaced. AM sells a good ford racing tob for around 50$.

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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-23-2012
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Mines sqeaking from time to time too. No clue if its factory or what but when it goes ill replace it all.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by SoCal2V View Post
How many miles are on the car? Might be best to go ahead with a new clutch while you have it all apart.

My car, at probably about 79K the tob started making a really faint and intermittent amount of noise. By the time it hit 82K the bearing was done, it had become an unbearable screaming sound that only stopped when I shut the engine off, the clutch pedal felt ratchety and I was beginning to have disengagement issues. Long story short I just replaced everything in there. The factory clutch was still at about 50%. For me, the decision to do it all came down to two things; 1) I just wanted it to be right and not have to worry about it again for hopefully a long time to come, and 2) the labor between the two is more or less identical. Most shops charge 4 hrs labor for clutch replacement, and to do the bearing only I would have only been saving myself about 1 hr at the most in labor charges.

So my advice is, unless you're really in a pinch for money then just go ahead and do it right the first time. Unless that bearing is just flat out screaming then you should have a little time to get your finances in order.

As far as a recommendation for new clutch goes, I did a SPEC stage 1 (think it's rated for somewhere near 400 ft/lbs tq if I remember correctly) and also upgraded the flywheel to billet aluminum. Had it in there for 18K now and no complaints. It's slightly grabbier than stock, pedal feel and effort is identical to stock. Think the clutch kit from AM was like $240, f/w was another $300. Of course the f/w is completely optional, I only did it because I felt like 'well what the hell, let's go crazy'. Otherwise just have your stock f/w resurfaced. Another thing regarding tob's is, best policy is to get an oem one from dealership or FRPP. The aftermarket bearings supplied with most clutch kits are somewhat notorious for premature failure. I didn't know this when I did all my stuff and so the one that came with my clutch is in there and is holding up fine, but if you read product reviews over at AM's site there are a fair amount of complaints regarding this. Also highly recommended with all of this stuff is a new quadrant/cable/firewall adjuster. Don't know if that last one is 100% necessary but after doing some research it seemed like it was the best way to go.

I agree with every bit of this. I can also say a big + on that throw out bearing deal. My spec stage 2 kit lasted about 10,000 miles if that. The reason I went with a new clutch kit is my T45 was out getting rebuilt and that was the perfect time even with major future mods. Even tho my stock clutch was still 50% or more there. On the spec kit the throw out bearing failed way before and started making noises around a week after the install. I did the steeda cable kit when this was installed also. I replaced the throw out and pilot bearing with FRPP bearings then the clutch went out roughly 7,000 miles after. The first person I had resurface my flywheel did a terrible job and caused my clutch to fail. Now I have a stage 2 ram kit. I love it way more than specs kit. The pedal feel is amazing and it seems when you press the pedal in it's easier but on the release it comes down harder than the spec. I know it sounds odd but it's honestly how it feels. Been rolling roughly 20,000 miles on my ram kit and I love it and still does great. I did all my work myself by the way and it has saved me money.

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