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Old 05-24-2005   #1 (permalink)
Stanger99 is offline Rookie


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Default cams and everything

I really don't know alot about cams or what i would need in order to get cams, i think ( me thinking is scarry) i would need push rods rocker arms and springs but im not really sure if anyone knows anything about this hook me up with the information lol lata
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Old 05-24-2005   #2 (permalink)
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You'll also have to get a tune to accomadate your new found power. And depending on the type of cams you would get, you would also need to bump up your idle (2000+ stall or something). 3.73+ gears is also a good idea. I have never seen a 'Stang "go under the knife" to get them installed, but from what I hear, the motor has to come out (very expensive labor). Umm...possibly a new timing chain and what-not. New valve springs are recommended. Ummm...I am positive I have left out quite a few things, so it would be best to wait until someone that has actually gone through this procedure to give you the low down. I am actually planning on adding some new cams later on down the road to mine and just gave some items I found necessary through my research. I and am also interested on just what exact parts will be needed and how much I should expect on spending on labor. So, I will be following this thread closely as well

In the meantime, check out www.competitioncams.com and look through their application chart and everything. It's quite helpful:thumbup
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Old 05-24-2005   #3 (permalink)
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Well first off man, you don't need pushrods on a SOHC motor. Depending on how wild the grind of the cam is, your stock rocker arms will work just fine. Secondly the motor does not have to come out of the car to do a cam swap. The way the top end is built makes it about an 8 hour job to get the old ones out and new ones in. I know there's at least one member on the boards that's done it, I just don't remember who it is. Getting the cams from the manufacturer appears to be the biggest problem as of late. Apparently all the makers are running low on cam cores and therefore can't make very many new camshafts. Anyway, I hope this helps.
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Old 05-24-2005   #4 (permalink)
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Attached is article on swapping late cams into NPI motor; should give you idea of the work involved. Most cam manufacturers recommend changing valve springs as well. Since the cams directly effect 'breathing' their effectiveness will be tied to other related mods on your exhaust & intake. I'd use the cam specs on the Comp Cams 262AH & 270AH as the standard to judge other cams by. Do NOT overcam - car will be pain to tune and suck as a dailly driver. The most commonly praised street cams are the Comp 262AH's.
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Old 05-24-2005   #5 (permalink)
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Ok since I just got done doing this here goes.

You need to decide what your plans for the car are before you rush out and buy anything.

Do not under any circumstances buy a cam solely because its labeled by a "stage"

Do some research on how cams work. Specifically the definitions of these terms....

Lobe seperation angle
Duration
Lift
Intake centerline
The difference between advertised duration and duration at .050 lift

Once you are familiar with that then call and talk to some shops and just ask what they think would be the best for your application.


Once you get the ones you need the process is fairly straight forward and not cheap.

Once you start getting above .550 lift and 211-220 degrees of duration you will need valve springs. Other than that the stock rockers, chains and gears are fine providing they are in good shape.

One last thing you absolutely have to put a degree wheel on the engine and verify the valve timing. If you do not and somewhere along the line you let a chain slip you WILL be replacing your engine. The process is simple and straight forward and takes about an hour. The tools for the job are 86 bucks from summit.

Here are a couple links.

http://www.modulardepot.com/?show=articlesdet&aid=39
http://www.modulardepot.com/?show=articlesdet&aid=32

All in all swapping the cams out in the car really itsnt much harder than if the engine is on a stand.
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Old 05-25-2005   #6 (permalink)
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Also if you do cams make sure you do valve springs so,
you will be on the safe side.
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Old 05-25-2005   #7 (permalink)
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I agree, if you have the cash, do the springs too, espescially if you get a cam with over .500 lift. The stock cams have around .450 lift I believe, anything much bigger than that is going to need something that will resist binding a little better.
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Old 07-19-2007   #8 (permalink)
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Default Cams

Quote:
Originally Posted by Darkness 96 GT View Post
Also if you do cams make sure you do valve springs so,
you will be on the safe side.

I heard the beehive springs matched to the new cams is the way to go....
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Old 07-19-2007   #9 (permalink)
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a very old thread revived...
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