I haven't posted here in a long time and I hope you all can help like you have in the past. I have a '01 GT and the brake rotors need to be resurfaced after 75k miles. I decided to get new rotors and now I don't know which brand/type to get. Iknow when I had my '01 eclipse the drilled and slotted were the way to go and I am wondering if that is still the way to go. My question to you is this. 1. What are some good rotors to go with?
2. Drilled and slotted or just slotted or does it really make a difference?
3. Where can I buy rotors besides summit racing and stylinconcepts?
4. where can I buy a brake control module with pump with ABS and traction control?
I will be using the stock calipers. I also need new suspension as well. any help here is greatly appreciated and thanks in advance.
I run Baer slot/cross-drills on front of the 96 & all-around on the 2001 (Gallery). Check TRack and we can discuss further.
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I'm back - 2002 GT Convertible, auto: Continental Extreme Contacts, KYB GR-2 shocks/struts, Ford Racing "G" springs, Maximum Motorsports camber plates, 3 pc grill delete, Mach I chin spoiler.
Do a search on Ebay for Mustang rotors.
There's a shlt load on there.
I have some nice 13" Drilled/slotted rotors on the front of my Cobra. Be sure that whatever you buy is Zinc or Cadmium plated. This will prevent the hats/centers from rusting.
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1998 SVT Cobra #4941 of 5174 built on June 19,1998
4.30s, Speedcal, WMS CAI, Pro 5.0 shifter, Sniper Tuner, March pulleys, Mac O/R H pipe, Flowmaster orig. 40's, King Cobra clutch, D/S rotors, FRPP 9mm's, Max. Motorsports C/C plates, Termy front control arms, H&R SS springs, MM solid steering rack bushings, Tokico HP struts and shocks, Mac subrames, HID Bi-Xenon 6000k kit, Saleen 18" wheels, Saleen S-281 spoiler, sequential tails
Up Next: Termi diff, 31 spline Axles, LPW girdle, MM LCAs
My pads have lasted plenty of time so far, they definitely haven't been used up extra fast. I've had the same pads on the car for almost a full year now with the d/s rotors.
They may not offer any performance gains, but they sure look great.
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1998 SVT Cobra #4941 of 5174 built on June 19,1998
4.30s, Speedcal, WMS CAI, Pro 5.0 shifter, Sniper Tuner, March pulleys, Mac O/R H pipe, Flowmaster orig. 40's, King Cobra clutch, D/S rotors, FRPP 9mm's, Max. Motorsports C/C plates, Termy front control arms, H&R SS springs, MM solid steering rack bushings, Tokico HP struts and shocks, Mac subrames, HID Bi-Xenon 6000k kit, Saleen 18" wheels, Saleen S-281 spoiler, sequential tails
Up Next: Termi diff, 31 spline Axles, LPW girdle, MM LCAs
Where did you get them? What brand did you go with?
Quote:
Originally Posted by badass98svt
My pads have lasted plenty of time so far, they definitely haven't been used up extra fast. I've had the same pads on the car for almost a full year now with the d/s rotors.
They may not offer any performance gains, but they sure look great.
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i have the 13" baer setup on the front of my car, and from what i have read the bigger the more stopping power due to the more braking surface, the ones i have are the slotted and x-drilled, they are supposed to cool down the rotors faster so you don't get the spongy feeling when they get hot, but i like to do some canyon driving about once a month so i actually use them, check out this forum and ask around there they will be able to explain more http://forums.corner-carvers.com/
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2003 GT K&N - C&L intake w/ 85mm MAF- 70mm TB - MAC Longtubes - bassani on road X-Pipe - Magnaflow Cat Back - Diablo Sport - U/D Pulleys - Baer big brakes up front
Steeda came out with a nice kit for the rear, includes two bigger rear rotors (slotted), a bracket to re-mount your stock caliper to match the new rotors and SS braided brake lines.
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2006 Legend Lime Mustang GT/Manual Trans/some mods(tired of updating) 13.257 @ 109.36 on stock 18 fanblades and stock BGFs wth CAI, tune, UDPs
1967 Lime Gold Galaxie 500 XL/390 4bbl/Toploader
1966 Mustang Coupe/bare metal (rebuild in process-slowly)/engine&trans TBD
first off, any brake rotor that can expell the gases quickly (suchs as drilled or slotted) created between the rotor and pad are a huge improvement over stock rotors. more gases expelled means, less heat, longer pad life and longer rotor life with less warpage. If you use a "lifetime" pad or a harder compounded pad, then yes, any rotor will wear out quicker. And as far as the spongy feel when using the brakes alot, that is caused by the gases created between the pad and rotor.(thats why drilled and slotted rotors work, they expell those gasses).So your best bet would be to upgrade the rotors and pads, and definately upgrade the stock lines to stainless steel, and if you can afford to upgrade the calipers too.
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2000 GT VERT-- Far from stock, far from where I want it...
couldnt agree more, but if you keep the stock rotor size you should go with slotted, not drilled. reason being because ive heard that drilled rotors are more prone to cracking, especially with our cars. i had the powerslot rotors with hawk pads on all 4s and they worked better than stock. as far as upgrading to a big brake kit, its worth it only if you actually use it. i have wilwood 13" slotted & cross drilled rotors up front, 12.1" in the rear, 6piston calipers up front and 4piston in the rear with ss lines all the way around. HUGE improvement from what i had, but i do take my car to the track often, and i drift it alot and plan on doing a few road courses so i will need them. oh, and the occassional canyon/mountain run. just depends how u drive it and how you plan to drive.
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4/26/61 - 10/30/07
The best Mom-lady I could have ever asked for
HELP:Need new brake rotors 
