I just needed a swift kick in the @ss by the right person to get my head back on straight. I'm going to be starting the full out drag car build next month. I'm working on getting the car back to the house here (I need struts, rearend, and some wheels to get it back on teh ground).
Once it gets here, i'm starting with the full chassis and suspension. Once that's done, i'll be working on the interior and electrical, then the fuel system. Once the entire car is done (and more money than i can count later...) it'll be time for the engine.
I'm planning on documenting everything along the way with pics/summaries, however if there is anything in particular you want, let me know. I'll be a one man show, bascially building an 8 sec car from the ground up (i'll be starting with a painted "body in white" car).
Next month i'll be starting with:
Full tubular suspension
Manual rack swap
Manual brakes, including making my own lines and routing them
Re-wiring every circuit in the car from scratch
Installing a built 8.8" rear
Getting teh rearend suspension setup and installed
Welding in the 12 pt cage
Gutting all unecessary weight
Battery relocation
Aerospace Drag Brakes install
Let me know anything in particular you want, i'll see if i can take detailed pictures and write something up.
Anything you'd be interested in writing up from what you do in the project would probably be of great interest to me, and of great help to the vast majority of people on here.
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1996 Mustang GT 248A
barely any mods, Daily driver
1965 Chevy c-10 350 chevy getting pulled for 402BBC and Th400
1984 Caprice Classic 305 getting pulled for mild 350, hoping for high 14s
My Nova is 100% restored from the ground up bro. I was just going to put a solid roller 383 in it, to replace the 355 i have now. I'll probably still do that this summer sometime.
This may be a dumb question, but why? Is it a matter of cost, or configurability or simplicity or what?
I prefer to tune with a screwdriver... Tuning real drag cars at the track is NOT fun. Cost wise, it'll be about the same once all is added up, but i'll have a big burden i won't have to worry about.
This may be a dumb question, but why? Is it a matter of cost, or configurability or simplicity or what?
one reason would probably be, a screwdriver and a hand does the tuning and maybe a little light. compared to a computer and dyno. Its a lot easier to make changes at the track also with a carb.
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1998 GT Saleen replica
New forged internals w/cobra crank, TEA CNC ported heads w/ comp cams XE270AH, AccuFab throttlebody and plenum, Spec III clutch, TKO 600 trans, aluminum drive shaft, 3:73 gears, BBK long tube headers, 255lpm intank fuel pump, Dyno tuned, Polished Procharger D-1sc 12psi, 3 core intercooler. SVO hood and 18in Budnik wheels w/toyo tires. Caster/Camber plates BBK lowering springs. Car web page
Comp cams XE262AH,T-45 with tri-ax shifter for sale
one reason would probably be, a screwdriver and a hand does the tuning and maybe a little light. compared to a computer and dyno. Its a lot easier to make changes at the track also with a carb.
damn straight... if i'm going to the track, i want to have fun, not do a 2nd job too
Anything you'd feel up to writing up would be an awesome addition to the site.
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Sometimes I think that government fits that old-fashioned definition of a baby: An alimentary canal with an appetite at one end and no sense of responsibility at the other.
- Ronald Reagan
Mods coming, do you want full writeups? 
