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Unread 06-20-2007   #1 (permalink)
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Default Replacing rear control arm bushings. Need tips/advice.

I've got a rear upper bushing with some slop in it so I've decided to go ahead and get a whole set of polyurethane bushings for the uppers and lowers. Are there any tools I'll need to install and remove the bushings? Any helpful hints?
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Unread 06-20-2007   #2 (permalink)
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yup, a few helpful hints: get a drill and a propane torch. drill the most you can out with the drill, and then use the torch to burn out the remaning parts of it.

--or--

get this tool from maximum motorsports:
Maximum Motorsports :: The Leader In Mustang Performance Suspensions
Part# MMT-1



read what they say about the rear upper bushings too:
Maximum Motorsports :: The Leader In Mustang Performance Suspensions
Part# E4SZ-5A
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Unread 06-21-2007   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reivaxtorres View Post
yup, a few helpful hints: get a drill and a propane torch. drill the most you can out with the drill, and then use the torch to burn out the remaning parts of it.

--or--

get this tool from maximum motorsports:
Maximum Motorsports :: The Leader In Mustang Performance Suspensions
Part# MMT-1



read what they say about the rear upper bushings too:
Maximum Motorsports :: The Leader In Mustang Performance Suspensions
Part# E4SZ-5A

Yeah, I know about their belief in rubber bushings in the uppers but I can't afford a torque arm/panhard rod setup so urethane it is. I was planning on getting the tool for the diff side upper bushing but I didn't know if the other six bushings need a tool or just fell out after the bolts are removed.
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Unread 06-21-2007   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Monkey Boy View Post
Yeah, I know about their belief in rubber bushings in the uppers but I can't afford a torque arm/panhard rod setup so urethane it is. I was planning on getting the tool for the diff side upper bushing but I didn't know if the other six bushings need a tool or just fell out after the bolts are removed.
well...i just took my whole axle off piece by piece about 2 months ago, and nope, they dont come off. they are all going to be equally difficult to remove.
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Unread 06-21-2007   #5 (permalink)
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If you have the poly bushings that reuse the outer steel shell from the stock ones the torch heating method is the way to go. Don't bother drilling them, just heat the outer part of the shell and it will smoke like crazy then the bushing will just kind of "poop" right out . Don't do it with out proper ventilation, it is a smokey stinky mess with hot driping rubber. Clean up the inside of the old shell and you can insert the new bushings.
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Unread 06-22-2007   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KILLER BIRD View Post
If you have the poly bushings that reuse the outer steel shell from the stock ones the torch heating method is the way to go. Don't bother drilling them, just heat the outer part of the shell and it will smoke like crazy then the bushing will just kind of "poop" right out . Don't do it with out proper ventilation, it is a smokey stinky mess with hot driping rubber. Clean up the inside of the old shell and you can insert the new bushings.
How easily do the new urethane bushings go in? Do I need to chill the bushing in a freezer to shrink it a bit?
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Unread 06-22-2007   #7 (permalink)
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They should slide right in, especially with grease.
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Unread 06-22-2007   #8 (permalink)
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Sweet! I think I've got enough info now that if I screw it up, I can blame it on you guys!:hihi:

Thanks for the help, gang!
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Unread 07-14-2007   #9 (permalink)
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Just an added information in case some other person would like to replace their control atm bushings... Because replacing these Ford Mustang performance parts is relatively easy, and you can save a lot of money doing it yourself at home. A machine shop will use a press to remove the old bushings, but there is a simple way to accomplish this task. We used a bottle jack and bench vise to push the rubber center and core out of the circular housing. If you use a penetrating lubricant on the bushing the night before, it doesn't take much pressure to push out the rubber. All four of the arms can be done the same way, but if you don't plan to remove the rear end, do them one at a time and replace the finished arm before removing the next one. This secures the rear assembly with three arms while you restore the one.
Removing the Arm
Having a floor jack (or trans jack if you have access to a lift) to support the rear end will make the removal of the control arms easier. Using a 3/4-inch wrench and socket set, loosen the nuts on both of the control-arm retaining bolts. If your bolts are rusty, soak them with lubricant the night before. Remove the bottom bolt first then access the top bolt through the hole in the frame. Hold the control arm as you remove the top bolt—you don't want this chunk of metal dropping on your foot. It might take a bit of prying and wiggling to get the top connection loose from the frame mount.
Denting
We used a cold chisel to dent the side of the empty bushing case, which also started to break the pressure-fit ends of the case away from the control arm. The stamped-steel control arm is pretty tough, so you don't have to worry about bending it during this process. A good place to do this part of the job is on a cement floor. Step on one end of the arm and pound the bushing on the other end. Obviously, a large hammer makes the job easier.
Chisel the Bushing
Use the dent and cut made in the side of the bushing case to create a long groove in the metal. Once you've cut the case about three quarters of the way down its length, you can then bend it inward on both sides, taking all the pressure off the ends. The folded case can then be easily hammered out of the arm. Now is the time to either sand the metal or, if rust is present, have the arm media-blasted. No sense putting a rusty part back into the car. We used a self-etching primer first and then a couple of coats of semi-flat black aerosol paint.
Bushing Installation
We used a couple of 2x4s and 4x4s to prop up the end of the restored control arm for the bushing installation. A little white grease or liquid lubrication on the contact ends of the bushing will facilitate installation. A large socket and hammer will easily install the new bushing—simply use care to install it straight into the hole. Pound it until the lip on the bushing is contacting the side of the control arm and you're done. Not counting time to cosmetically restore the arm, it should take about an hour of labor time to remove and replace each arm. If your old bushings were really shot, this restoration will make an immediately noticeable difference in how the car rides and handles. Good luck!!!
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Unread 02-22-2009   #10 (permalink)
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A little late to the party here but this is what I have been searching for. Good post.
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