I greatly appreciate the help. I am almost certain I will be in need of your assistance.
As for the "scratchin my head" bit, yea, the first time I took off the valve cover on an OHC engine I was amazed by the completly new configuration. I can imagine the trouble\fun i can get into with a dohc.
I have plenty of calipers, micrometers, dial gauges, and tourque wrenches, gauge blocks, feeler gauges. From what it looks like, the cam positioning tool is just a device that clamps onto the cam and prevents it from rotating and moving during assebly - please correct me if I'm wrong. As for the bolt stetch gauge, is that pretty much a modified dial gauge on a base?
Correct, it locks the cams in place.
A rod bolt stretch gauge is a fixture with a heavy duty spring with the anvil of a dial indicatior that gets fixed into the dimple of the top of the rod bolt. It measures the preload of the rod bolt, for proper stretch.
Rod bolt failure is the leading cause of engine failures because people improperly torque the bolts. They rely on a torque wrench only.
"Rod bolt failure is the leading cause of engine failures because people improperly torque the bolts. They rely on a torque wrench only."
I am presuming that there are different stretch specs for different bolt grades? Does a grade 8 bolt stretch more than a higher grade bolt - is it really even much of an issue?
"Rod bolt failure is the leading cause of engine failures because people improperly torque the bolts. They rely on a torque wrench only."
I am presuming that there are different stretch specs for different bolt grades? Does a grade 8 bolt stretch more than a higher grade bolt - is it really even much of an issue?
Thanks again
Yes, every bolt has a different elasticity. If a rod bolt is just torqued, but not preloaded correctly (meaning that it's not tightened to it's stretch limits) it can slowly stretch and eventually fail.
In an engine, the crankshaft produces tension on the rod cap and rod bolts/bushings. As the crankshaft spins, the rod itself has two forces operating on it (nominal force and gravitational force). The idea is to make sure that the nominal force on the rod bolts is always greater than the tension created by the crankshaft. If it is not, it will stretch the bolt, and the bolt will fail.
ARP always includes the stretch specs for all of their rod bolts. Since you have a 4V engine, I feel that it is mandatory to use the ARP2000 rod bolts, over the inferior 8740 bolts. As engine RPM increases, the tension on those bolts will increase. A 4V engine operates in a much higher powerband that will require the use of the 2000 bolts.
Thank you mark. You are just a wealth of knowledge.
Just curious, do you have any experience with a couple items/brands:
ACE 4340 forged h beam rods - rated @750+hp and
KB forged dished pistons 17cc 3.573" - have to bore it .020 over which should be ok for a supercharger down the road, right?
Also, looking at the part #s for aftermarket cobra heads, the 96-98 and the 99-04 are the same. Are they interchangeable - are the intakes?
Im looking at a set of used 03 cobra heads and was wondering what would be needed to make them fit.
Are there any clearance issues? (haha-anything that a sledgehammer wont fix?)
Will the 96 intake work with the tp heads for the time being - until a sc gets installed? IMRCs need to be swapped/deleted. Or should I get a used 01 intake?
I know, I just keep rambling off questions.
but your info is top notch
Also, will my anemic gt computer handle all the changes with a good tune, or should a newer computer and/or harness be used? I know the knock sensors will be deleted running the gt harness - how effective are they running stock boost on a m112?
Thank you mark. You are just a wealth of knowledge.
Just curious, do you have any experience with a couple items/brands:
ACE 4340 forged h beam rods - rated @750+hp and
KB forged dished pistons 17cc 3.573" - have to bore it .020 over which should be ok for a supercharger down the road, right?
Also, looking at the part #s for aftermarket cobra heads, the 96-98 and the 99-04 are the same. Are they interchangeable - are the intakes?
Im looking at a set of used 03 cobra heads and was wondering what would be needed to make them fit.
Are there any clearance issues? (haha-anything that a sledgehammer wont fix?)
Will the 96 intake work with the tp heads for the time being - until a sc gets installed? IMRCs need to be swapped/deleted. Or should I get a used 01 intake?
I know, I just keep rambling off questions.
but your info is top notch
I've never heard of ACE brand rods, but I will suggest that you use Eagle or Manley rods only. All H beam rods are made on the same line in China, but each manufacter puts their own quality "touch" on them. Manley, I've found have proven to be the best. A lot of the cheap rods you find on ebay are out of round, and are not shot peened.
KB pistons are junk. For pistons, Diamonds are what i'll recommend. They have offset pins that will eliminate the piston slap that is common with aftermarket forged pistons, and are VERY strong.
As for heads/intake. Tumble port (99+ heads) require the matching intake. You won't be able to use the 96-98 intake on tumble port heads. You'll need the 99/01 cobra intake or the 03/04 mach 1 intake (either one will work).
03 cobra heads are by far the best 4V head produced (except for the R/GT heads). If you can afford them, I'll strongly suggest buying them. As for valvetrain parts, the part #'s will be the same for all 96-04 heads, as they all share the same valvetrain components.
Also, will my anemic gt computer handle all the changes with a good tune, or should a newer computer and/or harness be used? I know the knock sensors will be deleted running the gt harness - how effective are they running stock boost on a m112?
The 2V EEC will have no problem controlling a 4V. You are correct, delete the knock sensors, and you'll be fine. All Ford EEC's can handle the spark requirements to 8,000 rpm (which you'll never see anyways). After that, the EEC has a hard time controlling the voltage required and a DFI will be required.
I was going to go with h beam manley rods - they were about $550, and manley pistons for about the same, then I ran across a whole forged set of rods, rings, and pistons for $750 - just made me wonder...
like you said, they're all coming out of the same plant anyway, but who auctually owns the tooling and patents etc (prob manley?) and runs the knockoffs at night? haha and then who grabs all the "no go"s and sells them?
Diamond pistons over manley? I was originally trying to have a continuity with a brand but if manley is prone to piston slap I'll follow your suggestion. In what environment will piston slap tend to occur with other brands? (nitrous or sudden hard acceleration or sustained high rpm, high hp in general, etc)
$700 - $800 about right for diamond pistons and rings?
Should I budget for a valve job on the 03 heads? How about new cams, or the rest of the valvetrain? It's set up to run a blower from the factory so I should be pretty much set, right?
Original plan was for about 400-450 hp. Consider it a daily driver - mostly weekend cruiser. No tracks - well maybe 1 or 2. transmission has 95k on it and worked great prior to the engine pull - should I also count on a new xmission?
I was going to go with h beam manley rods - they were about $550, and manley pistons for about the same, then I ran across a whole forged set of rods, rings, and pistons for $750 - just made me wonder...
like you said, they're all coming out of the same plant anyway, but who auctually owns the tooling and patents etc (prob manley?) and runs the knockoffs at night? haha and then who grabs all the "no go"s and sells them?
Diamond pistons over manley? I was originally trying to have a continuity with a brand but if manley is prone to piston slap I'll follow your suggestion. In what environment will piston slap tend to occur with other brands? (nitrous or sudden hard acceleration or sustained high rpm, high hp in general, etc)
$700 - $800 about right for diamond pistons and rings?
Should I budget for a valve job on the 03 heads? How about new cams, or the rest of the valvetrain? It's set up to run a blower from the factory so I should be pretty much set, right?
Original plan was for about 400-450 hp. Consider it a daily driver - mostly weekend cruiser. No tracks - well maybe 1 or 2. transmission has 95k on it and worked great prior to the engine pull - should I also count on a new xmission?
Thanks
The rods are sold to each company by the parent company in China. Eagle owns the company, I believe.
Piston slap is caused by the increased piston to wall clearance required for forged pistons to expand (less silicon content). The offset pins used in the diamond pistons help reduce the amount of rocking the pistons do in the bore. Piston slap isn't necessarily a bad thing, but it can be annoying. It's not fun to have an engine that sounds like a diesel everytime it's started.
Manley pistons are "ok" quality, but they cost exactly the same as the diamonds. Diamond and CP (much more money) are the only pistons I suggest for use in a modular engine.
THe 03 heads use the same sh!tty quality valves that were found in the previous generations heads. Many 03/04 cobra owners experience high leakage caused by the combustion temps they experience. THe valves look like tulips when they pull the heads off. A good set of valves, bronze valve guides and a valve job are a must. I'd suggest a good set of valvesprings and retainers as well. Since the engine will be street driven, I'm not going to suggest the titanium retainers, the steel versions will be plenty fine for you. As for valves, i'm going to suggest either crower or Ferrea brand valves. Manley is decent, but the design of them actually restricts flow. Also, you must decide what brand valves you'll be using before having the shop press in the new valve guides. Each brand has a different valvestem diameter, and you'll need to know it to allow for the proper stem to guide clearance. If this isn't done, you'll have a problem with high oil consumption.
Piston slap is caused by the increased piston to wall clearance required for forged pistons to expand (less silicon content). The offset pins used in the diamond pistons help reduce the amount of rocking the pistons do in the bore. Piston slap isn't necessarily a bad thing, but it can be annoying. It's not fun to have an engine that sounds like a diesel everytime it's started.
So it's the skirt of the piston hitting the cylinder? Or the rings slapping around on the piston? - Either way, it can't really be a good thing?
Quote:
Originally Posted by markwondi
The valves look like tulips when they pull the heads off.
Yea, I helped rebuild a diesel engine where the kept using starting ether.... the valves were melted to a nub
It looks like I'm getting the tp heads but won't get them till the end of the month I guess I'm going to work on the top end thru the fall/winter - take my sweet a$$ time.
My father just had bilateral hip replacement, so I've been helping him out and haven't had much time to shop for other items.
Taking a step back, what tends to be the problem with regrinds- they aren't tempered or faced correctly, or is it that they tend to be out of spec or what? I'm gonna steer clear from them because I'm buying a valvetrain set, but I was just wondering what the major issues are.
So it's the skirt of the piston hitting the cylinder? Or the rings slapping around on the piston? - Either way, it can't really be a good thing?
Yea, I helped rebuild a diesel engine where the kept using starting ether.... the valves were melted to a nub
It looks like I'm getting the tp heads but won't get them till the end of the month I guess I'm going to work on the top end thru the fall/winter - take my sweet a$$ time.
My father just had bilateral hip replacement, so I've been helping him out and haven't had much time to shop for other items.
Taking a step back, what tends to be the problem with regrinds- they aren't tempered or faced correctly, or is it that they tend to be out of spec or what? I'm gonna steer clear from them because I'm buying a valvetrain set, but I was just wondering what the major issues are.
Right, the side skirt on the inboard side (called the thrust side). As long as the PTW clearance is ~.035" (for a modular engine) then you'll be fine with a little piston slap. A slightly heavier oil will help reduce that annoying noise. 5W-20 was used by Ford on production engines due to the very tight clearances.
The problem with regrinds is that each cam lobe is ground differently as far as ramp rates and base circle size goes. This requires more than the typical lash adjuster preload adjustments required for billet cams. You must also tip the valves when setting up the valvetrain so that each cylinder is set up correctly. If not, you'll shock the valvesprings and valveseats and will cause incresed wear and low power.
Is lucas oil additive any good for these engines? I used it in most every sbc I had, but not for the 4.6 tibird which was pure mobil 1 (which crapped out @ <80k.)
Since I'm going with diamond pistons anyway (now that I found a good price) their design pretty much eliminates the valve slap so it should not be an issue? I don't want to pop any seals or explode any filters or anything like that.
Upgrade oil pump - High volume? High pressure? or both?
Is lucas oil additive any good for these engines? I used it in most every sbc I had, but not for the 4.6 tibird which was pure mobil 1 (which crapped out @ <80k.)
Since I'm going with diamond pistons anyway (now that I found a good price) their design pretty much eliminates the valve slap so it should not be an issue? I don't want to pop any seals or explode any filters or anything like that.
Upgrade oil pump - High volume? High pressure? or both??
Lucas is the best product made, but I don't see a reason to need it on these engines. If the piston to cylinder wall clearance and machine work on the block is done right (with torque plates), you will have no noise issues with the Diamond Racing pistons.
As for teh oil pump, a cobra oil pump is cheap and adequate enough for 800hp. A set of billet oil pump gears is strongly recommended though. Triangle Speed Shop and VT Engines sell these gears, although VT has had issues with clearances on their gears.
Quote:
Originally Posted by JD3
Mark, are you involved in any R&D at GM?
Yes, I am involved in the small block chevy engines.
Lucas is the best product made, but I don't see a reason to need it on these engines. If the piston to cylinder wall clearance and machine work on the block is done right (with torque plates), you will have no noise issues with the Diamond Racing pistons.
As for teh oil pump, a cobra oil pump is cheap and adequate enough for 800hp. A set of billet oil pump gears is strongly recommended though. Triangle Speed Shop and VT Engines sell these gears, although VT has had issues with clearances on their gears.
Yes, I am involved in the small block chevy engines.
Just 2 cents from the peanut gallery, be very carefull about any additive, and the viscosity of the oil you use in any mod motor.
The way the oiling system works and the tight tolereces it can spell disaster.
We put a super charger (Kenne Bell) on an 2007 GT,
after the customer picked up the car someone told him he needed thicker oil than we put in it, so he changed it.
The end result was a see through block.
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2003 Mach 1, Automatic Transmission,4:10 gears
Preditor Tune
13.148 @ 106.3
1986 SVOSaved from the scrap yard,currently under reconstruction
