[JD3]

Originally Posted by automach03

Just 2 cents from the peanut gallery, be very carefull about any additive, and the viscosity of the oil you use in any mod motor.
The way the oiling system works and the tight tolereces it can spell disaster.
We put a super charger (Kenne Bell) on an 2007 GT,
after the customer picked up the car someone told him he needed thicker oil than we put in it, so he changed it.
The end result was a see through block.

Yea, that's what I was wondering about. The stuff looks like 120w gear oil coming out of the bottle so I know its gotta change the viscosity. I like the fact that it leaves that residual slick on parts - I used it a few times in addition to assembly lube (dont know if that was good or not but it had good results), and I'm sure it has got to save the engine on the dry startups - I'm sure to invest in an electric oil primer aftem my engine is completed.

As for the see thru block - I though it was designed that way to make it lighter and cool more efficiently - right? ha

I'll get a cobra pump. When I was working on sbcs, everyone listed pumps according to volume and pressure. Looking for fords - its just "high flow" - I didn't know if there were any specifics I could look for.

Speaking of machine work - the block originally came with a 6 bolt cast crank, and I'm using (or trying to) a 8 bolt forged crank but the counterweights look like they are gonna be in the way. If the block gets machined - I am going to presume a stud girdle is almost a must. I have no experience with these and was wondering if there is a specific brand to go with or if there are any clearance issues. Some manufactures say it will not affect or interfere with the oil pickup and others require a special pump or pickup.

Thanks guys

[straits15204]

Hey so you obviously got that Mark VIII engine into your stang right? I was considering the same thing rather heavily, I just wanted to know what some of the biggest problems if any were that you ran into during installation and what not if you could drop a post on my thread that would be readily appreciated, thanks

[markwondi]

Originally Posted by JD3

Yea, that's what I was wondering about. The stuff looks like 120w gear oil coming out of the bottle so I know its gotta change the viscosity. I like the fact that it leaves that residual slick on parts - I used it a few times in addition to assembly lube (dont know if that was good or not but it had good results), and I'm sure it has got to save the engine on the dry startups - I'm sure to invest in an electric oil primer aftem my engine is completed.

As for the see thru block - I though it was designed that way to make it lighter and cool more efficiently - right? ha

I'll get a cobra pump. When I was working on sbcs, everyone listed pumps according to volume and pressure. Looking for fords - its just "high flow" - I didn't know if there were any specifics I could look for.

Speaking of machine work - the block originally came with a 6 bolt cast crank, and I'm using (or trying to) a 8 bolt forged crank but the counterweights look like they are gonna be in the way. If the block gets machined - I am going to presume a stud girdle is almost a must. I have no experience with these and was wondering if there is a specific brand to go with or if there are any clearance issues. Some manufactures say it will not affect or interfere with the oil pickup and others require a special pump or pickup.

Thanks guys

You have a teskid block correct? If so, no machine work is necessary to use a steel crank. The Romeo Iron blocks require the #3 bulkhead to me modified for clearance of the counterweights.

The cobra crank is a high volume pump and is perfect for what you're wanting to do.

Also, modular motors do not require a stud girdle, infact I wouldn't suggest one. A set of ARP main studs are more than stout enough.

[JD3]

Originally Posted by straits15204

Hey so you obviously got that Mark VIII engine into your stang right? I was considering the same thing rather heavily, I just wanted to know what some of the biggest problems if any were that you ran into during installation and what not if you could drop a post on my thread that would be readily appreciated, thanks

Yea, that mark 8 engine pretty much just physically drops in there. The lincoln engine was a 96 and is pretty much the same block as the 4.6 found on the gt untill 99. The transmission had no problem bolting up. The wiring harness need to be lengthened for a few sensors. The exhaut manifolds will need to be used from a lincoln or cobra 96-98 - actually, I THINK up until 03 will work even though the heads arre different, but double check me on that. The front dress is pretty much interchangeable between the 2. The lincoln uses a 6 bolt crank, so you can reuse the flywheel/flexplate from the gt you have.

If you have any othe questions, just let me know. It is a pretty straightforward swap, just need a tune for when your done. I would suggest swapping the lincoln intake with the cobra, as it has a better design and more aftermaket parts are available for it.

[E5designs]

Dude i been following your conversation. By my bad estimations you are about to spend $3000-4000 in head work with cams, valves, porting and such. You only want to increase your hp from 290-ish to 450-500. You already getting a steel crank so you may also want to look at Nos, turbo, superchargers instead of the head work. You orginally said you had only $2000 left for the engine right?

[JD3]

Originally Posted by E5designs

Dude i been following your conversation. By my bad estimations you are about to spend $3000-4000 in head work with cams, valves, porting and such. You only want to increase your hp from 290-ish to 450-500. You already getting a steel crank so you may also want to look at Nos, turbo, superchargers instead of the head work. You orginally said you had only $2000 left for the engine right?

Yea, I decided Im going to leave these stock heads as they are. I will be assembling a set of 03 cobra heads with a bit of machine work - porting, valve job, etc, along with some mild(ish) cams and an 01 cobra or 03 mach 1 intake (to start) then maybe an Eaton or a KB down the road. The rotating assembly is going to be all forged, so it will take anything up to 500-600 hp(?) - I gotta double check max rating, but its more than I anticipate anytime soon. I am pretty much building my engine up one step at a time - bottom end, then ported heads and intake, (then prob rest of driveline), then s/c

As for turbos and centifugal s/c, I prefer the low end torque of roots or even twin screw SC. High end power is really fun, and even though a turbo can ultimatly make more hp per lb of boost than a SC (from what I understand) I don't like reving the engine that high on the local roads - too many cops and susequent tickets, ya know?