A guy on another forum told me to rebuild my trac loc with carbon fiber disc. Are they as good as an auburn locker for the money.
You would then basically have an Eaton posi. Auburn diffs are horrible on the strip, but do well in the twisties... stay away if you'll see much strip time.
Ok I guess my next step will be some new axles and build the trac loc. I should be ok to run slicks then right? It will be awhile before I do anything, I am tring to buy a 2000 F-350 crew cab LE diesel with 62k miles right now. I hope that goes good tomorrow.
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1998 GT Saleen replica
New forged internals w/cobra crank, TEA CNC ported heads w/ comp cams XE270AH, AccuFab throttlebody and plenum, Spec III clutch, TKO 600 trans, aluminum drive shaft, 3:73 gears, BBK long tube headers, 255lpm intank fuel pump, Dyno tuned, Polished Procharger D-1sc 12psi, 3 core intercooler. SVO hood and 18in Budnik wheels w/toyo tires. Caster/Camber plates BBK lowering springs. Car web page
Comp cams XE262AH,T-45 with tri-ax shifter for sale
yeah a rebuilt trac loc and some 31 splines should be perfectly fine for you
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Sometimes I think that government fits that old-fashioned definition of a baby: An alimentary canal with an appetite at one end and no sense of responsibility at the other.
- Ronald Reagan
I have the subframes in and I have upr LCA's but took them back off because I couldn't get the factory roll bar to hook up to them, I need the upr one. I do need to get some 31 spline axles and get rid of the c clips. What I would like to do is do my rear-end so I can use some slicks and then do my 87 coupe's rear-end making it 5 lug also so I can have one set of slicks for both cars.
If you're going to spend money for axles and gears you should just upgrade to a 9" rear and make it bulletproof.
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07 GT premium in Grabber Orange. 5spd. manual w/IUP, plenum cover,3.55's, Roush scoop, 14" antenna, C&L CAI, Bamachips 93 Predator tune, Steeda U/D pulleys, Hurst shifter, FRPP GTA's, CDC chin spoiler, CHE LCA, BMR panhard bar, Eibach Pro Kit. FRPP 17" black bullitts and 255R45 Firestones, Spydershaft aluminum driveshaft, MSD coils, D-Specs, Prothane motor mounts, BMR LCA brace, Steeda panhard brace, BMR adj. UCA, Webelectric sequentials, Mikronited FRPP 4.10's.
I dont think so axle's and rebuild trac loc is under $500 where it will be over $1000 for a 9 inch. Plus this is not going to be a drag car just want good times and then run it on the street every once in awhile. I will have my drag coupe put back together for next spring so I want need to run a car that has a small fortune in it. I wish I knew how much my car weights. I know its pretty heavy with the ground effects and everything.
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1998 GT Saleen replica
New forged internals w/cobra crank, TEA CNC ported heads w/ comp cams XE270AH, AccuFab throttlebody and plenum, Spec III clutch, TKO 600 trans, aluminum drive shaft, 3:73 gears, BBK long tube headers, 255lpm intank fuel pump, Dyno tuned, Polished Procharger D-1sc 12psi, 3 core intercooler. SVO hood and 18in Budnik wheels w/toyo tires. Caster/Camber plates BBK lowering springs. Car web page
Comp cams XE262AH,T-45 with tri-ax shifter for sale
Let's the BS parade begin. What ET's should they be running with that power?
1)You didn't say what the car weighs.
2) And no, I don't claim to be a "know it all" as you suggested.
Why is it that every time someone makes a suggestion that doesn't agree with you self proclaimed 'experts', you always think you're right. Just because one guy has success with a certain part or parts, doesn't mean every other suggestion is wrong. If you look at the vast majority of high horsepower drag cars, the overwhelming choice is the 9" rear.
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07 GT premium in Grabber Orange. 5spd. manual w/IUP, plenum cover,3.55's, Roush scoop, 14" antenna, C&L CAI, Bamachips 93 Predator tune, Steeda U/D pulleys, Hurst shifter, FRPP GTA's, CDC chin spoiler, CHE LCA, BMR panhard bar, Eibach Pro Kit. FRPP 17" black bullitts and 255R45 Firestones, Spydershaft aluminum driveshaft, MSD coils, D-Specs, Prothane motor mounts, BMR LCA brace, Steeda panhard brace, BMR adj. UCA, Webelectric sequentials, Mikronited FRPP 4.10's.
I think a 9" is overkill in blueoval's car, a built 8.8 will handle his power level with no problem. That doesn't mean your sugestion is wrong, just not very practical in this case.
1)You didn't say what the car weighs.
2) And no, I don't claim to be a "know it all" as you suggested.
Why is it that every time someone makes a suggestion that doesn't agree with you self proclaimed 'experts', you always think you're right. Just because one guy has success with a certain part or parts, doesn't mean every other suggestion is wrong. If you look at the vast majority of high horsepower drag cars, the overwhelming choice is the 9" rear.
Yes, the logical choice for all cars is to throw a 9" in. I'll get right on that with all the 8 sec cars....
Stop living in the 1960's and realize that engineering has allowed us to actually make rearends last under very high HP. The 8.8" is used on many of the 7 and 8 seconds drag radial cars, although I guess they are stupid for doing so?
Sometimes I think that government fits that old-fashioned definition of a baby: An alimentary canal with an appetite at one end and no sense of responsibility at the other.
- Ronald Reagan
