1997 Mustang GT 4.6L issues - Ford Mustang Forum

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago Thread Starter
Rookie
 
Texasgt8's Avatar
 
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 5
 
1997 Mustang GT 4.6L issues

Hey guys! New to the forum! I hope to turn my recently purchased SN95 project into a nice fun weekend toy. I did buy this car extremely cheap, knowing it would need some work, so lets jump in! 1997 Mustang GT, auto. 125,660 miles. 7/10 interior. 5/10 exterior. But first things first, I want to get it running right. The car will turn over and idle very rough, seems to be running EXTREMELY rich. Plugs on the passenger side are all wet with gas. When you try to give it gas it will just bog badly, it was a...you know what....to try to load on the trailer...should of bought a winch haha. you can put it in drive and reverse and it will take off with minimal gas, but seeing anything about 15 mph or 2000 rpm is almost impossible. So it has me thinking, Coils? plugs/wires? IAC? Fuel pressure regulator? leaky injectors? Car is stock.


Like I said I bought this car on the cheap and expected to have to do some work to get it right. I think the fuel pressure regulator isn't connected...please let me know if this is right. And where does/ should this be connected? Pics would be preferred. Also I found other things I have a question about I will provide pics. First pic is the FPR and a connector...do these go together.

Second pic is the red lines leaving the TB, could I get a skematic for how these vacuum lines are ran? And where I can purchase some new ones? This all may be related to my car problems.

Texasgt8 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago Thread Starter
Rookie
 
Texasgt8's Avatar
 
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 5
 
I am having issues posting images from my phone.

Texasgt8 is offline  
post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago
SHELBY GT 350 Member
 
wmburns's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2010
Location: Houston
Posts: 6,294
         
IF the fuel pressure regulator intake vacuum reference line is disconnected the usual symptom is RICH at idle (low vacuum). As RPM's increase the severity of the RICH will decrease.

Resist the urge to fall into "parts changing" mode. Test. Don't guess.

The exception to this is normal maintenance items. With a "new to you" car many maintenance items are unknown. So start with the basics.

IF an injector problem is suspected consider an injector cleaning/flow test service such as InjectorRX.com. Once cleaned and tested they are as good as new. Cheaper than new.

If you are interested in getting a full set of Ford factory service manual and wiring diagrams for your car I maybe able to help. PM if interested.

2003 GT Convertible (sold & missed)
2000 GT coupe (Craigslist project. Fixed. Now my DD). Windsor to Romeo swap.
wmburns is offline  
 
post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago
PONY Member
 
40th GT's Avatar
 
Joined: Mar 2008
Location: Lawrenceville, GA
Posts: 421
 
The red vacuum line goes from the TB go to the EGR, and the green line connects the TB to the EGR solenoid. There is another line going from the solenoid directly to the EGR, so there are two lines coming out of the EGR solenoid. One of the solenoid ports is for vacuum reference so be careful not to get the top/bottom solenoid lines mixed.
Check all of these lines for any cracks because they break down with age. There are other rubber lines on the front of the TB and at least one more in the back, so inspect those as well while you're in there.
40th GT is offline  
post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago
Rookie
 
dB Racing's Avatar
 
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 27
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by wmburns View Post

Resist the urge to fall into "parts changing" mode. Test. Don't guess.
This.

This !

THIS !!!!!!!!!!!!!


OP you likely can't post pics bc you're new BUT you should be able to source engine-bay shots online OR go find a stock model same year for sale at some dealer and inspect the engine/take pics.
That should help you identify if someone started disconnecting or removing things during a failed foray into self-repairland.

The suggestion you go over all the vac lines is a good one. Inspect electrical connections and the topside wiring harness for hack work or failures.

Also the suggestion from Mr. Burns that you obtain a shop manual is a definite yes.

Renegade Racing 4.6 SOHC: Cobra Crank, Manley Rods, Coated Diamond Pistons 10.75:1 comp w/valve reliefs, PnP npi heads, PI intake, Comp Cams 262ah, Ferrea Valves, 70mm TB, 80mm MAF, SCT
2001 GT UNDER CONSTRUCTION
dB Racing is offline  
post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago
SHELBY GT 350 Member
Classic Member
4.6L Member
 
SoCal2V's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2010
Location: see user name
Posts: 8,379
               
To post pics, hit the little black rectangular "reply" button just to the bottom left of the most recent post, then click on the paperclip icon. This feature is not available using the "quick reply" box at the bottom of the screen. Took me a while to figure it out too....

If posting from your phone I suggest using menu options to view in desktop mode. The mobile version sucks.


2001 GT Convertible
/1967 Coupe
All the usual bolt-on's /200 I6, C4

And a few Explorers too... 2008 4.0 XLT 4x2, 1996 XLT 5.0 4x2, 2003 Sport Trac XLT 4.0 4x4
SoCal2V is offline  
post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago Thread Starter
Rookie
 
Texasgt8's Avatar
 
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 5
 
Just an update! I got all new vacuum lines(local U-Pull it) and found several engine pictures to reference to. I also connected a few missing connectors that the Prev Owner failed to do. SMH.

The pros:
Idles/starts 10x better

Cons:
Falls flat after 2000 Rpms, it can barely reach 3000k. Just struggles
Still smells extremely(eye burning gas) rich on passenger side.
found one connector that I have no clue as to where it goes

So far I have spent $6 dollars into improving this cheap project. The U-Pull it guy gave me the vac lines/rubber connectors for free. I did buy a fuel filter at a local auto store. I get a discount when using my Families Transmission Business account at local auto parts stores.

So heres what I am thinking:
Plugs, wires, coils
Have InjectorX rebuild injectors

and sorta go from there.
I did purchase a OBDII reader. Received no codes.
Texasgt8 is offline  
post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago
Rookie
 
dB Racing's Avatar
 
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 27
 
No codes at this point bc the battery was disconnected or dead before you put it on the trailer, and you haven't gotten it running sufficiently or long enough.

I thought you said the plugs on one side were all wet. Presuming you pulled them to see this, and cleaned them (and inspected) before they went back in . . . if they aren't horribly worn or fouled WHY spend money replacing them.

Do you have gas on top of the engine?
It's not difficult to have the fuel rails APPEAR to be seated on the injectors, and the lame nuts tightened down, but to actually NOT have them all seated. Will cause serious fuel smell (and also visible fuel typically).

I'd look for evidence of liquid (gas) on the outside of the injectors. Use paper towel. There should be NO liquid up topside on the motor.

Bc you know some idiot attempted a repair but didn't hook everything back up you might want to pull the fuel rail and the injectors, inspect the seals, wipe them clean, lube the seals, and reinstall the injectors and rails BEFORE you send them out for cleaning.

Its easy enough to test the coil pack and wires to see if you're getting spark/electricity to the plugs before you just go buy new coil packs and wires and plugs.

It COULD Be the injectors BUT if ALL the plugs on one side were wet . . . so ALL the injectors are bad, but ONLY on the one side??

It COULD Be the coilpack on that side . . . but you're going to discover that if you find there's no spark at the plugs.

Renegade Racing 4.6 SOHC: Cobra Crank, Manley Rods, Coated Diamond Pistons 10.75:1 comp w/valve reliefs, PnP npi heads, PI intake, Comp Cams 262ah, Ferrea Valves, 70mm TB, 80mm MAF, SCT
2001 GT UNDER CONSTRUCTION
dB Racing is offline  
post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago Thread Starter
Rookie
 
Texasgt8's Avatar
 
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 5
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by dB Racing View Post
No codes at this point bc the battery was disconnected or dead before you put it on the trailer, and you haven't gotten it running sufficiently or long enough.

I thought you said the plugs on one side were all wet. Presuming you pulled them to see this, and cleaned them (and inspected) before they went back in . . . if they aren't horribly worn or fouled WHY spend money replacing them.

Do you have gas on top of the engine?
It's not difficult to have the fuel rails APPEAR to be seated on the injectors, and the lame nuts tightened down, but to actually NOT have them all seated. Will cause serious fuel smell (and also visible fuel typically).

I'd look for evidence of liquid (gas) on the outside of the injectors. Use paper towel. There should be NO liquid up topside on the motor.

Bc you know some idiot attempted a repair but didn't hook everything back up you might want to pull the fuel rail and the injectors, inspect the seals, wipe them clean, lube the seals, and reinstall the injectors and rails BEFORE you send them out for cleaning.

Its easy enough to test the coil pack and wires to see if you're getting spark/electricity to the plugs before you just go buy new coil packs and wires and plugs.

It COULD Be the injectors BUT if ALL the plugs on one side were wet . . . so ALL the injectors are bad, but ONLY on the one side??

It COULD Be the coilpack on that side . . . but you're going to discover that if you find there's no spark at the plugs.
Thanks for the reply! This is exactly why I present my ideas before just throwing money at the car. I can try some basic remedies, like stated by you, to help determine the cars problems. Yeah, the car probably hasn't ran long enough to throw a code. I've only ran it about a total of 5-8 mins.

When I made my first initial observation of the plugs they seemed to be pretty bad off(appearance wise) on either side of the engine. So for $14 I can replace the autolites with TR55s. (Thanks to my families discount) and upon further observation I found that several boots their was wear/pieces of rubber missing. So I thought if I replaced plugs and wires first it could possibly solve my problem, and honestly..it could use some new plugs and wires lol.

I really like the injector leak tests ideas/tips you provided. I think, since it would only cost me some paper towels and some lube, I will do this first on the passenger side and try to ensure the rails on placed properly. My initial thoughts, if it came to this, on sending the injectors off for cleaning...I figured if I had to I would just send all of them off at once to be rebuilt.

I will test for spark and check for gas around injectors on passenger side and will get back with you! Thank you!
Texasgt8 is offline  
post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago
MACH I Member
 
90lxwhite's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 3,264
           
If the fuel reg is bad the vac line on top will be wet w gas when you pull it off.
90lxwhite is offline  
post #11 of 18 (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago
Rookie
 
dB Racing's Avatar
 
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 27
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by 90lxwhite View Post
If the fuel reg is bad the vac line on top will be wet w gas when you pull it off.
Ding Ding Ding

I suppose I should have just suggested a running list of the things that would make the engine compartment "reek" of gasoline.

Renegade Racing 4.6 SOHC: Cobra Crank, Manley Rods, Coated Diamond Pistons 10.75:1 comp w/valve reliefs, PnP npi heads, PI intake, Comp Cams 262ah, Ferrea Valves, 70mm TB, 80mm MAF, SCT
2001 GT UNDER CONSTRUCTION
dB Racing is offline  
post #12 of 18 (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago
MACH I Member
 
90lxwhite's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 3,264
           
Quote:
Originally Posted by dB Racing View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by 90lxwhite View Post
If the fuel reg is bad the vac line on top will be wet w gas when you pull it off.
Ding Ding Ding

I suppose I should have just suggested a running list of the things that would make the engine compartment "reek" of gasoline.
Yeah I suppose... Smarty.
I was just throwing out a quick n easy way to test it.
But yeah, make your list.
90lxwhite is offline  
post #13 of 18 (permalink) Old 3 Weeks Ago
Rookie
 
dB Racing's Avatar
 
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 27
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by 90lxwhite View Post
Yeah I suppose... Smarty.
I was just throwing out a quick n easy way to test it.
But yeah, make your list.
LOL I'm saying you and I started the list . . .

After I saw your post I went "oh that is a good one I didn't think of that" and I thought I should have been more focused. Like:

"OP your engine compartment should NOT reek of raw gasoline. Get some paper towels, and climb all over the engine using your nose (and the paper towels), and source the gas smell . . . bc you're going to likely to find what the problem is" or at least some part of it.

ANYONE ELSE who's come across a gas leak (added points if it could also explain the poor running) or source of reeking raw gasoline smell in a modular (FI) engine compartment
add to the list

Renegade Racing 4.6 SOHC: Cobra Crank, Manley Rods, Coated Diamond Pistons 10.75:1 comp w/valve reliefs, PnP npi heads, PI intake, Comp Cams 262ah, Ferrea Valves, 70mm TB, 80mm MAF, SCT
2001 GT UNDER CONSTRUCTION
dB Racing is offline  
post #14 of 18 (permalink) Old 1 Week Ago Thread Starter
Rookie
 
Texasgt8's Avatar
 
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 5
 
**UPDATE**

Smoking from passenger side of motor, I am starting to believe is the cause of a valve cover gasket leak.

Replaced the plugs and wires, cause I got a great deal on them anyways, and the fuel filter as well. No improvement.

I am starting to believe it has something to do with the cats. Falls flat on it's face around 3k rpms when in park.
Bogs down and wants to die at WOT in drive. So maybe without sounding like an idiot, I MAY have some evidence that points to the cats even more so.
I removed the mufflers, and started it up, it ran better...even at idle. It revs above 3k rpms now as well(around 3600 now) and it revs quicker....I know the mufflers come after the cats and maybe I am being dumb, but do you think by me removing the mufflers, it somehow...allowed a clogged cat to flow ever so slightly better to allow it to rev a little higher and quicker? Sure it still isn't right, but maybe this helps point even more to a clogged cat?
Texasgt8 is offline  
Rookie
 
neuron's Avatar
 
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 18
 
Possible, the engine can overheat too. No codes when scanned?

neuron is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Ford Mustang Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a VALID email address for yourself, otherwise you will not receive the necessary confirmation email needed to confirm, validate and activate your new AFM member account.

Failure to provide a VALID email address, will result in the cancellation of your new AFM member account registration.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome