Coolant boiling out of resevoir - Ford Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-01-2019 Thread Starter
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Coolant boiling out of resevoir

I just put a 2001 4.6 2v engine into my 2003 v6 chassis. I am having an issue where my coolant starts to boil out of the resevoir and shoots all over once the temperature gauges gets halfway. What could be causing this to happen?

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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-01-2019
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There's two angles I believe should be reviewed. Which radiator has been used? The V6 radiator is not large enough to cool the V8. So if you have used the V6 radiator then the overheating is to be expected.

What did you do to adapt the single speed fan of the V6 for the two speed operational requirements of the GT. IE have you confirmed that the fan actually works on BOTH speeds? Depending upon the combination of parts used this could cause a situation where the fan runs on low speed but when the PCM calls for high speed fan, the fan just shuts off.

Depending upon WHICH components were swapped from the V6 in to the V8.

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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-01-2019 Thread Starter
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I am using the radiator, overflow and fan from a gt. However I don’t believe it is overheating as the temp gauge still reads right in the middle. Which is why I’m confused as to why the coolant is coming out the overflow cap. And it has not been overfilled as it does this even when very underfilled.
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-01-2019
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I stand by my earlier advice. IF this were my car I would confirm that the PCM is able to control the fan's operation on both speeds. There are differences between the V6 and V8 versions of:
  • Car's body wiring harness
  • CCRM
  • fan

Then you won't spend a bunch of time looking for a problem when there's something uniquely wrong with your "special" case.

What's an easy way to do this? How about using an advance ODB2 scanner with bi-directional capabilities to "command" the PCM to run the low speed and then the high speed fan. Then there's absolutely no doubt of what works.

The low tech way to do this is to allow the motor to overheat with the AC off. A correctly working GT should have the fan kick on first at low speed and then at high speed. Even better. Use an infrared thermometer to cross check the actual temperature of the T-stat housing. Pay attention to the temperature that the various speeds that the fan speed changes.

Moving up in the difficulty scale would be jumping the various control pins of the CCRM to see that the CCRM responds correctly.

If you are certain that the fan is actually working on both speeds, then we need to know what the T-stat temperature is when it begins to boil over. Use a infrared thermometer to measure the T-stat housing.

In the interest of being through:
  • Is the heater bypass line in place between the water pump and the heater core
  • In fact is the heater core loop in place. The GT needs the heater loop to help purge air from the motor.
  • is the cooling system able to hold pressure? Does the top hose get hard.
  • Check to see that the T-stat itself is actually opening
  • are the small de-gas vent hoses in place to the coolant recovery tank?
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Last edited by wmburns; 08-02-2019 at 12:38 AM.
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-02-2019
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Could it be as simple as the is thermostat stuck closed or air in the system? Squeeze the upper jose when it's hot. You should be able to pinch it closed.
Also is the coolant coming out scalding hot or luke-warm?
Anytime I had air in the system the gauge would read high and it'd be gushing out luke-warm coolant long before it was time for the fan to come on.
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-02-2019
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Check your radiator cap.

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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-02-2019
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I'd first check to see if you engine is actually overheating. Borrow or buy an infrared temperature tool (about $25 at a Harbor Freight). Your symptoms sound more like the cooling system is being pressurized beyond the limits of the radiator cap (usually around 16-18 psi). I'd leave the cap off and run the engine. If you're getting pressure into the cooling system from a leaking head gasket, you'll see bubbles/foam in your reservoir. I think there is an additive you can put into your cooling system to test for the presence of combustion gases.
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-02-2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Travis98146 View Post
I'd first check to see if you engine is actually overheating. Borrow or buy an infrared temperature tool (about $25 at a Harbor Freight). Your symptoms sound more like the cooling system is being pressurized beyond the limits of the radiator cap (usually around 16-18 psi). I'd leave the cap off and run the engine. If you're getting pressure into the cooling system from a leaking head gasket, you'll see bubbles/foam in your reservoir. I think there is an additive you can put into your cooling system to test for the presence of combustion gases.
It'd probably be smoking out of the tailpipes if the head gasket was blown huh?
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-02-2019
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Thermostat upside down? Inlet/Outlet hoses transposed? Fan wiring polarity backwards? Can happen, all of them, when mixing model year engineering.

I personally like the air pocket theory.


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