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Old 02-24-2003   #1 (permalink)
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Default 4.6L Turbo Q&A

Twister requested that I put a quick thread up about throwing a turbo on a modular....well, I tend to type a lot so it will be a post, but probably not quick

Quick run down of my current setup :

*Total Performance Turbolocity 4.6L 2v Turbo Kit
*Upgraded from a 60-1 turbo to an Innovative GT61BB unit. This unit is a dual ball bearing setup and is liquid cooled. Full boost is reached at approximately 2400rpms. Maximum efficiency will result in approximately 625rwhp.
*4in inlet with a Lightning MAF
*The intercooler is 3" thick and the IC tubing is 2.5"
*Currently the motor is completely stock, except for the 42# injectors.

I was the second turbo kit to come out of TP. Currently unless you want a custom made kit, they are the only source for 2v and 4v kits. There are others who are in the process of making single and twin turbo setups, but some have already missed their deadlines.

The tune is set by JMS. For those that say a chip must be burned on the dyno have never used JMS. I've gotten chips for both my late model vehicles from them - both were great. Chris did get the first turbo car trailered to his shop for a weekend of dyno runs and street driving so he has a good baseline. The 02 models had some different characteristics that required some tweaking, but they were able to resolve it.

My thoughts....the 2v motor can take some serious abuse, but we all know the internals cannot....especially the rods. My next area to tackle will be a motor, but for now I felt that addressing the suspension was a better route for me.

There are a few guys out there who have already built their motors and are building full drag cars with T72's and GT80BB units - they should be in the 750-850rwhp range - both are being tuned directly by JMS as well.

Anyway....be happy to share driveability, mpg, or any other questions on the kit - even how it compares to a SC, nitrous, etc.....
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Old 02-24-2003   #2 (permalink)
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This is what Im talking about...tech it up baby!!!
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'97 GT with 80mm C&L MAF, C&LTrue-Flow CAI, MAC 70mm TB, Superchip, 180 thermo, B&M Ripper, King Cobra Clutch, FRPP aluminum quad/adj cable, MAC O/R H pipe, MIL's, Flows, Granatelli Solid control arms, FRPP 4.10's, FRPP aluminum driveshaft, Fidanza aluminum flywheel, FRPP 9mm wires, TMD aluminum U/D pulleys, Steeda full length SFC's (welded in), and 17" polished aluminum Cobra wheels with Nitto 555 Extremes, Kenwood/Alpine sound. Waiting for install: PI intake.
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Old 02-24-2003   #3 (permalink)
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Money no object? A nice lightenend billet crank/rods and a set of JE pistons. There's a beautiful Cobra that will be roaming Dallas shortly owned by One Percent who has the GT80BB - basically the big brother of my turbo. While full boost might come on a bit higher, that can be a good thing as there is too much boost off the line even in my setup currently.

But in a realistic world, a nice cobra crank and forged rods/pistons, get the billet oil pump gear and ARP bolts everywhere. A simple cleaning of the heads by TEA or Fox will be good and about 12psi. Just be prepared to replace the clutch, tranny, differential and axles as well. If you're starting from scratch, the Explorer block is a nice piece, only 4# heavier than the cobra alum block, but has a lot of extra support where its critical....not a necessity, but hey any extra weight off the front end is a good thing...

There's no need for a timing adjuster, pulleys, TB - for the $/hp they're not worth it in a setup like this.

Apexi makes a nice electronic boost controller where you can adjust the settings by gear - very cool piece. Just be careful not to trust your boost gauge when doing the tune - verify it and double check it....I trusted mine only to test it later with 2 different MityVacs - it was low by 6psi when I said 'hey, if 8psi is good, 10psi must be better, right?" Needless to say 16psi wasn't a welcome addition to the stock rods.

But it was a good learning experience and when we pulled the motor there were ZERO signs of detonation - a tribute to the tune of JMS and how safe it actually was.

As for other stuff...I've dyno'ed the car before/after every mod except for the exhaust and the new turbo which were put on at the same time....I've tried a chip, K+N, Alum DS, synthetic oil....very good for documentation although I haven't completed that part of my site

Currently I'm working on the suspension (full front/rear Maximum setup) and finishing the battery disconnect and making an alum firewall since I didn't want to enclose the battery in a standard box so I'm legal to race by spring.
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Tuned @ XXTuning by "J" : 631rwhp/655rwtq @ 15psi
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Old 02-24-2003   #4 (permalink)
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Good info... I like it. Thank you snkypete
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Old 02-24-2003   #5 (permalink)
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Not to plug other sites, but there are some good pics of the 4v kit (uncoated) at www.turbolocity.com. I'd say you can get some good turbo info at turbomustangs.com, but I wouldn't recommend that site for the weak of heart

Tech stuff : The two complaints usually associated with a turbo are 1)lag and 2)cost.

For someone who insisted on a twin kit to eliminate lag, I can say I don't have any - even when I had the Precision T64 on the car the boost came on quite well. As for cost, if you add up everything that is included in most kits - intercooler, injectors fuel pumps and tack that onto the price of a supercharger, you are in the same ballpark.

While peak HP numbers might be a little lower, average HP numbers are greater and then there's the torque....
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Tuned @ XXTuning by "J" : 631rwhp/655rwtq @ 15psi
Mustang Enthusiast November 2003 Feature Car
MM&FF March 2004 Feature Car

Snkypete.Com

2007 F-250 Lariat : 2002 Rinker Captiva 262 SS : 2003 Yamaha Grizzly
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Old 09-17-2009   #6 (permalink)
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i want to turbo my p71 and kinda hesitate because ppl telling i'll blow the motor on stock, but i read stock bottom can support up to 500 hp so can u please tell me wat path i should take im looking to get 380-420hp,
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