No, no, no, no....Having your transmission flushed can actually hurt your transmission. I've had bad experience in doing so. In fact, some manufactures DO NOT recommended.
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2000 Mustang GT (2001 engine), 5 speed, K&N FIPK, short shifter, Steeda Quadrant clutch kit, Bassani BX X-pipe, SLP Loudmouth with Magnaflow "weld-ins" cat-back, 3.73s, Tokico Illuminas 5-way adjustable shocks with 1.5" lowering springs, Saleen wheels, D/S rotors, Mach1 grill. Parts awaiting installation: Mac LT headers, Mac pro-chamber.
I've always had the pholosophy of leave it alone until needed. As a matter of fact I just changed the oil in my car yesterday. It has 99,500 and just reacently started shifting funny. All good now. I have not had the actual flush (heard bad things about also). Just the normal filter change and fluid... fluid..... 6.89/ qt. X 7 (Not for Mustang). Fluid adds up quick!!
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Building it right from the beginning is always better than starting over to build it better because it was temporary.
93' LX hatch, 460 with mods, TH400 trans, 9" w/ 3.89 spool. Best (so far!) of 10.18 @ 131 mph with 1.39 60'
I've always had the pholosophy of leave it alone until needed. As a matter of fact I just changed the oil in my car yesterday. It has 99,500 and just reacently started shifting funny. All good now. I have not had the actual flush (heard bad things about also). Just the normal filter change and fluid... fluid..... 6.89/ qt. X 7 (Not for Mustang). Fluid adds up quick!!
Only one oil change in 99k miles?!? Maybe thats why your ponys so slow. kidding, just kidding. I dont think cvhanging your oil would affect its shifting, but driving it hard for 100K miles might be the culprit.
Also to the guy that really needs help. Maybe you should ruin a diagnostics check. Or take it to the factory.
Only one oil change in 99k miles?!? Maybe thats why your ponys so slow. kidding, just kidding. I dont think cvhanging your oil would affect its shifting, but driving it hard for 100K miles might be the culprit.
Also to the guy that really needs help. Maybe you should ruin a diagnostics check. Or take it to the factory.
I'm not talking about my race car here(I said not for Mustang). This is my everyday car 02' impala. Like I said I just changed the oil and filter and the car shifts very smooth again, never any missed shifts. I could just tell that "well it is time!" All my other cars in the past have been treated the same and I have NEVER had a trans go out on me. That's my opinion on this. Very abused cars are totally different and I still would stay away from a power flush. Again my opinion.
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Building it right from the beginning is always better than starting over to build it better because it was temporary.
93' LX hatch, 460 with mods, TH400 trans, 9" w/ 3.89 spool. Best (so far!) of 10.18 @ 131 mph with 1.39 60'
I just spoke with a service tech at a Ford dealer locally and He claims that you can flush it...He's done alot of them and he only had 1 problem. That was because the car had high miles.
So my question here is: Do I ask him to put it in writing just incase something pops up? My car has 54K and according to the Ford tech I should not have an issue. I hope this helps, but I would love to get some more opinions I also need to do this ASAP! HELP!
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Diablo Predator custom tune for bolt ons by tuningsuperstore.com, BBK cold air kit, C&L intake plenum, BBK 75mm Throttle Body, BBK underdrive pulleys, BBK shorty headers, Magnaflow X-pipe
Magnaflow Cat Back, MGW short throw shifter, 3:73 gears
I had mine flushed after changing filter/fluid. Because it was still shifting oddly. Was back to normal after the flush.
But, a lot of places will make you sign a waiver before flushing your transmission. And of course it states they aren't responsible.
But the waiver is probably because many people had unfix-able problems and decided to blame it on the transmission flush.
the bad thing about the flushing process is that it send the fluid through the passages backwards... i would not do it you could get all the gunk that is in there stuck somewhere else BAD!
if you are a do it yourselfer what i would do is drain my tranny and drop the pan and scrape all the crap out of it get it all nice and clean then change your filter and bolt the pan back up and add your fluid
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MGW!!! Steeda adj clutch setup, Custom Exhaust (H), Diablo, motive (yes motive) 3.90s, steeda sfc's, steeda UCA&LCA, K&N FIPK2 Plenty to come
Garage: steeda long tubes & shorty x + TWS heads!!!
"Alcohol is for drinking, gas is for cleaning parts, and nitro is for racing!" - Big Daddy Don Garlits
Dude, if you still want to flush your transmission after people here are advising you against it, then read the following:
A New "Recommended" Maintenance Item...
In the last few years you were probably asked, or told, by you dealer or quick lube place that you need an engine or transmission flush, because the engine oil or transmission fluid is very dirty. They will tell you that it is recommended that you have it done because your engine or transmission will last longer if it is flushed clean. In that they are correct, a clean engine and transmission will last longer. But is flushing the best way to get a dirty engine clean?
What Is An Engine Or Transmission Flush?
Flushing is the high pressure forcing of fluid back against the normal flow of the fluid. In other words if the normal flow is left to right, the flush would force the fluid right to left. This is accomplished by connecting a machine that will force special solvents back through the engine and transmission. The idea is that by forcing cleaning solvents backwards through the system, it will get all the junk and garbage that has formed over time and "flush" it out of the system. In theory this may be sound, but in actual practice, it's dangerous.
The Dangers Of Flushing...
Flush machines do what they say; they force high pressure cleaning solvents back through the engine and transmission and clean out some of the accumulated junk that has formed. Now engines have small passages and galleries through which oil or automatic transmission fluid flow and there are one-way valves that keep the fluids from backtracking for whatever reason. By using an aggressive cleaning procedure like flushing, large chunks of accumulated sludge are broken off and forced backwards through these galleries and valves and, more often than not, lodge tightly and block them. This cuts off the normal flow of the fluid and causes lack of lubrication in an engine and abnormal or no shifting in a transmission. The results are expensive repairs, or more often, engine or transmission replacement.
Who Recommends Flushing As Maintenance?
The shops that want to sell you the engine or transmission flush charge anywhere from $49.95 to $99.95, not including a new engine or transmission. Those are extra. And they state quite emphatically that it is recommended that it be done. But who actually recommends that it be done? I checked with GM, Ford, Chrysler, Nissan, Honda and several other new car manufacturers and not one recommended an engine or transmission flush as routine maintenance. In fact, they specifically don't recommend it at all!! The new car dealerships that do sell them use the implication that since they are the dealer that it must be the factory that recommends it. And if they do say the factory recommends it, they are flat out lying to you.
The only ones who do recommend flushing as a maintenance procedure are the companies that sell the flush machines and the shops that buy them. The flush machine manufacturers state quite clearly in their operating manuals not to use their machines on "high-mileage vehicles". That simple statement proves that flushing is not a safe procedure. It also absolves them of any responsibility of any damage that may occur due to the use of their equipment. This leaves the shop wholly responsible for anything that happens and the cost of correcting the damage that occurs.
I know this since I recently appeared as a witness in a lawsuit where a person was sold an engine flush that destroyed his engine.
The Facts...
The fact is, if you do frequent engine oil and filter changes and service the transmission every 15,000 miles there is no need for a flush. I have customers that change their oil every 3,000 miles and they don't need to use fancy oils and filters, and after over 100,000 miles, the oil comes out almost as clean as it goes in. They have regular transmission services and their transmission still shifts like new, even with well over 100,000 miles on it.
If you have neglected regular oil changes and you want to do some interior engine cleaning, get the oil and filter changed and replace one quart of motor oil for one quart of transmission fluid. The transmission fluid has a high detergent content that will clean the engine without damaging it. Do this every 3,000 miles and you will clean the inside of the engine slowly and gently.
If you do get a flush, I recommend you do it when you can afford to replace the engine or transmission.
can someone tell us how long it would take to drain, drop pan, clean, and refill? Also does anyone know if it will cost more done this way. if they flush it I don't even get out of my car LOL
But hey if getting out and doing it myself means i'm going to extend the life of my motor and tranny than I will do it! Whatever the diehards on here say
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Diablo Predator custom tune for bolt ons by tuningsuperstore.com, BBK cold air kit, C&L intake plenum, BBK 75mm Throttle Body, BBK underdrive pulleys, BBK shorty headers, Magnaflow X-pipe
Magnaflow Cat Back, MGW short throw shifter, 3:73 gears
oh yeah, and another question. What if we still have shifting issues after the method mentioned above. Do we flush after and would it be safer after we cleaned the gunk out? Also I would think if you kept up to changing it every 15,000 miles that it should limit flushing issues...am I wrong?
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Diablo Predator custom tune for bolt ons by tuningsuperstore.com, BBK cold air kit, C&L intake plenum, BBK 75mm Throttle Body, BBK underdrive pulleys, BBK shorty headers, Magnaflow X-pipe
Magnaflow Cat Back, MGW short throw shifter, 3:73 gears
correct i would be more than happy to supply you with pictures but i have a stick! however if you get under the car and locate your tranny and drain it you will no doubt find the pan it looks much like an oil pan... i would do everything i can to keep from flushing your tranny on the other hand i have heard many ppl that have benifited from it as well its about a 50 50 ratio.
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MGW!!! Steeda adj clutch setup, Custom Exhaust (H), Diablo, motive (yes motive) 3.90s, steeda sfc's, steeda UCA&LCA, K&N FIPK2 Plenty to come
Garage: steeda long tubes & shorty x + TWS heads!!!
"Alcohol is for drinking, gas is for cleaning parts, and nitro is for racing!" - Big Daddy Don Garlits