I'm pretty much done with my procharger install just have a few little things to get sorted out. I'm going to need two separate vacuum lines (one for the vacuum to the blow off valve and the other to the boost gauge) and i dont know where to find a second one. I'm going to be using the one on the backside of the plenum near the firewall but can't seem to find a second one. I have head there is one on one of the fuel rails but i can't seem to find it. I would also rather not have the 2 vacuum lines t'ed into one source.
any help is greatly appreciated.
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Procharged 2002 Mustang GT 5 Speed 351rwhp 353rwtq at 10psi
Next summer looking to go with:
Bilstien shocks + struts, Lowering springs (brand still TBD (any suggestions?)), MM CC plates, front + rear sway bars, subframes, and upper and lower control arms.
Time to make the pony ride some rails
alright pardon my ignorance but i can't seem to find it! the only line i could imagine being a vacuum line is on the backside of the drivers side fuel rail. and i believe that is for the fuel to get to the rail. please let me know if i'm wrong. i posted a couple of pictures and if you could point me in the right direction (maybe circle the vacuum line in paint or something?) that would be great.
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Procharged 2002 Mustang GT 5 Speed 351rwhp 353rwtq at 10psi
Next summer looking to go with:
Bilstien shocks + struts, Lowering springs (brand still TBD (any suggestions?)), MM CC plates, front + rear sway bars, subframes, and upper and lower control arms.
Time to make the pony ride some rails
I have a magnuson mp112 supercharger and my blow off valve, boost gauge and fuel pressure sensor are all on one line. I have had no problems.The kit I bought recommended hooking the fuel pressure sensor and the blow off valve together, they said they were having fuel pressue sensor failures until they ran the two off from one line.
wow. thanks guys. i think i was thinking that the red line was a wire for some reason. clearly it runs to the plenum though.
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Procharged 2002 Mustang GT 5 Speed 351rwhp 353rwtq at 10psi
Next summer looking to go with:
Bilstien shocks + struts, Lowering springs (brand still TBD (any suggestions?)), MM CC plates, front + rear sway bars, subframes, and upper and lower control arms.
Time to make the pony ride some rails
alright i need some advice on tapping into that red vacuum line. mine seems to be way too skinny for either "t" fitting (BOV or boost gauge). how did you guys get the vacuum line over the "t" fitting? it's being quite stubborn and im afraid of ripping the line.
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Procharged 2002 Mustang GT 5 Speed 351rwhp 353rwtq at 10psi
Next summer looking to go with:
Bilstien shocks + struts, Lowering springs (brand still TBD (any suggestions?)), MM CC plates, front + rear sway bars, subframes, and upper and lower control arms.
Time to make the pony ride some rails
if you haven't cut it yet, plug the factory end of the red line into the tee, then just run regular vac. line from the tee to the fuel pressure sensor and the other part of the tee to your gauge.If you have cut it I'd probably change the line over to regular vac. line, much easier to work with.
i was thinking of just getting some new vacuum lines too. do you think if i heat up the vacuum line (only slightly with a hairdryer) that i will be able to open it just enough to get the t in?
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Procharged 2002 Mustang GT 5 Speed 351rwhp 353rwtq at 10psi
Next summer looking to go with:
Bilstien shocks + struts, Lowering springs (brand still TBD (any suggestions?)), MM CC plates, front + rear sway bars, subframes, and upper and lower control arms.
Time to make the pony ride some rails
If you heat it you will probally have trouble down the road with them cracking. My boost gauge came with a small T, I plugged the T into the regulater and the other side straight into the vacuum line, then ran the boost line into it, I dont see any problems there.
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98 GT, Vortech T Trim with Power cooler, AFM Powerpipe, PI intake, Trickflow Plenum and TB, 90mm MAF, 255 Fuely 42lb shooters. Longtubes, H and Super 44s, Suspension and connectors, Driveshaft and gears, Spec flywheel and Clutch, Cobra brake swap. Steeda, MM and UPR stuffed in there too.
It would be better to run all your vacuum lines which will see boost too with rubber hoses and clamps on the connections.
If you don't want clamps, at least use tie wraps at each connection that will see boost, especially the one to the FPR on the driver's side fuel rail.
If you don't use clamps or tie wraps and blow off the FPR sensor line at WOT under boost, you will be rebuilding or buying a new engine due to running extremely lean.
Look closely at the bottom hose in the picture, it is how I hold all my vacuum/boost lines together. I have 30,000 miles with my setup which sees as much as 12# of boost at redline. .
I run my boost bypass, FPR sensor and boost gauge all off the bottom hose in the picture with no issues and a rock steady A/F ratio + boost gauge needle response.
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"Ignore that whistle, it's just a vacuum leak."
2000 Mustang GT:
Saleen Series IV Twin Screw, Chicane I/C, AFCO Extreme H/E, 2.8" pulley, FMS 42# injectors, Dual Catted 2 1/2" UPR X Pipe, UPR LCAs/UCAs, 2 1/2" Flowmaster American Thunder kit, 90mm LMAF, 112" Goodyear Gatorback, Kenne Bell BAP, Mosaleen idler, T-56, Detroit TrueTrac w/ 373s, Demolet 100mm CAI, SCT XCal2 with JDM Engineering 93 Octane "Race" tune.
grn 00 gt is that just a zip tie? i'm afraid of using a hose clamp and tightening it too tightly.
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Procharged 2002 Mustang GT 5 Speed 351rwhp 353rwtq at 10psi
Next summer looking to go with:
Bilstien shocks + struts, Lowering springs (brand still TBD (any suggestions?)), MM CC plates, front + rear sway bars, subframes, and upper and lower control arms.
Time to make the pony ride some rails