Can a Stock 2002 4.6L Handle a 75-100 Nitrous Shot?
I've been thinking about getting a 75-100 shot dry nitrous kit for my Mustang and was wondering if it could handle it?
It's stock except for mods listed in my signature and has 51,000 miles on it. The nitrous would only be used at the strip 1-2 times a month (so only 10 times a year maximum thanks to my location in northern NY).
If I do this I would get either the NOS (75hp/100hp) or Edelbrock (80hp) kit. Are there any other upgrades that I would need to do (fuel pump/system, cams,etc.)?
Thanks.
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Jason
2002 Mustang GT 4.6L 2V 5spd. Current Mods: Mac CAI, Underdrive Pulleys, Bassani X-pipe, w/ cats, followed by Flowmaster 40's, Subframe Connectors, Tokico Adjustable Suspension, Lowered 2", Steeda Tri-Ax, Ford Racing 4.10's, Hypertech, 245-45-17 Goodyear Eagle F1 GS D3's, Raptor Shift Light, White Gauge Face Insert, Hurst White Classic Shift Knob, Saleen S351 Front Bumper Cover and Rear Spoiler Someday: Shorty Headers . . . Procharger? 14.4 @ 99 w/ significant traction issues until 3rd
Yes it will handle it. I would suggest a window switch and fuel pressure cutoff switch at the minimum, followed soon after by a bottle warmer.
Thanks. So my OEM fuel pump will be enough? What are window switches and fuel pressure cutoff switches and what do they do? Sorry if these are dumb questions, I'd never given nitrous a thought until yesterday so I don't know anything about it .
Thanks.
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Jason
2002 Mustang GT 4.6L 2V 5spd. Current Mods: Mac CAI, Underdrive Pulleys, Bassani X-pipe, w/ cats, followed by Flowmaster 40's, Subframe Connectors, Tokico Adjustable Suspension, Lowered 2", Steeda Tri-Ax, Ford Racing 4.10's, Hypertech, 245-45-17 Goodyear Eagle F1 GS D3's, Raptor Shift Light, White Gauge Face Insert, Hurst White Classic Shift Knob, Saleen S351 Front Bumper Cover and Rear Spoiler Someday: Shorty Headers . . . Procharger? 14.4 @ 99 w/ significant traction issues until 3rd
might as well do it right and upgrade the fuel pump. an svt focus 255lph pump will be plenty. i got mine new on ebay for $150 shipped. i would rather be safe than sorry.
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Procharged 2002 Mustang GT 5 Speed 351rwhp 353rwtq at 10psi
Next summer looking to go with:
Bilstien shocks + struts, Lowering springs (brand still TBD (any suggestions?)), MM CC plates, front + rear sway bars, subframes, and upper and lower control arms.
Time to make the pony ride some rails
to start right on nitrous,your better off buying a complete kit for your car,any brand you like.make sure it is a "complete" kit and not a tuner's kit,which most times ain't complete.(because is for pros only which fabricate most of their jobs.)
Definitely get the full kit. It should include the window switch and fuel pressure cutoff switch. In addition to these, you'll need a 180F thermostat and a set of spark plugs 1 heat range cooler than the OE plugs. Also you'll want to get a dyno tune done. With the rarity of use that you expect to have, check into a dual mode chip with a nitrous tune on one bank and a daily mode on the other bank. And of course, whenever you plan on using that Nitrous, make SURE without a doubt that you've got a tank of Premium gas in the tank or you'll be picking up your bottom end from the dragstrip.
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Sometimes I think that government fits that old-fashioned definition of a baby: An alimentary canal with an appetite at one end and no sense of responsibility at the other.
- Ronald Reagan
Yeah, as usual I agree with bluestreak, Zex has a great kit that includes everything you need to do a good and safe install, other than the dyno tune.
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That hunk of junk? Yeah, well I've made a few special modifications to that yellow 99 Gt, it makes the Kessel run in 12 parsecs and eats turbo japs and poops chevy's
Both the kits that I am looking at include a "fuel pressure safety switch", and a "microswitch" that activates the system at wide open throttle. Are those the fuel pressure cutoff switch and window switch you guys are referring to? If so then all I would have to do in addition to the kit is upgrade the fuel pump, get the cooler plugs and thermostat, and either chip or dyno it.
Now, I have a Hypertech for the sake of changing the speedometer for the gears (and I did the 93 octane tuning since it was there and I figured why not), would one of those dual mode chips work with the Hypertech or would I have to return to stock tuning and figure out a different way to correct the speedometer?
Thanks.
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Jason
2002 Mustang GT 4.6L 2V 5spd. Current Mods: Mac CAI, Underdrive Pulleys, Bassani X-pipe, w/ cats, followed by Flowmaster 40's, Subframe Connectors, Tokico Adjustable Suspension, Lowered 2", Steeda Tri-Ax, Ford Racing 4.10's, Hypertech, 245-45-17 Goodyear Eagle F1 GS D3's, Raptor Shift Light, White Gauge Face Insert, Hurst White Classic Shift Knob, Saleen S351 Front Bumper Cover and Rear Spoiler Someday: Shorty Headers . . . Procharger? 14.4 @ 99 w/ significant traction issues until 3rd
A 75-100 shot will work no problem on a 99-04 2V. Rember, a drykit supplies its own fuel via the solenoid, so you need to makesure you have enough fuel (Pump, or KB BAP) would work best, you could prob up your injectors just a tad to be safe, but on a 75/100 hit, a fuel pump should be just fine.
Lots of good kits out there. NX, Cold Fusion, Dynotune, Zex, would be my choices. Dynotune sells AWESOME Dry kits for our cars, at a very very affordable price.
Make sure you get a window switch (Sprays in designated RPM zone, A heater, and a Purge Kit).
Just warning you, if you say you will only spray it 1-2 times a month at the track, you are wrong . I promise once you spray it, you will want to run a 100-125 shot constantly and all the time, its ADDICTING
Just be advised, the Zex wet kit DOES NOT include a window switch, it's just an WOT switch, that doesn't protect you from hitting the nitrous at low rpms, which is a very bad thing on the GTs with the plastic manifold. If you choose a wet kit, make sure you do not activate the nitrous below 3000rpm. There's not enough velocity in the port to carry the fuel through the intake, and you end up with a puddle in the lower intake, and it's been known to ignite and BOOM!!! You've got pieces of intake manifold everywhere under the hood. Spraying above 3000rpm only has pretty much eliminated that problem, and that's why everyone recommends a window switch, that way if you go full throttle below 3000rpm, it still doesn't activate the nitrous until you hit 3000.
Agree'd with Bullitt. The zex window switch works excellent. You can control Activated RPM's and which gear you spray in. Eliminate 1st gear from the mix, and spray from 3500/5800, and your set.
Mine will is set at 3500/5900, I shift at 6000. Just incase I miss a shift I dont wany any issues. That way it will pass 6000 and go to 6100/6200rpms, and I wont have any issues.
A 75-100 shot will work no problem on a 99-04 2V. Rember, a drykit supplies its own fuel via the solenoid, so you need to makesure you have enough fuel (Pump, or KB BAP) would work best, you could prob up your injectors just a tad to be safe, but on a 75/100 hit, a fuel pump should be just fine.
Lots of good kits out there. NX, Cold Fusion, Dynotune, Zex, would be my choices. Dynotune sells AWESOME Dry kits for our cars, at a very very affordable price.
Make sure you get a window switch (Sprays in designated RPM zone, A heater, and a Purge Kit).
Just warning you, if you say you will only spray it 1-2 times a month at the track, you are wrong . I promise once you spray it, you will want to run a 100-125 shot constantly and all the time, its ADDICTING
Do you have the dry kit part #s for those companies? All I'm finding specific to 99-04's are wet kits. Thanks.
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Jason
2002 Mustang GT 4.6L 2V 5spd. Current Mods: Mac CAI, Underdrive Pulleys, Bassani X-pipe, w/ cats, followed by Flowmaster 40's, Subframe Connectors, Tokico Adjustable Suspension, Lowered 2", Steeda Tri-Ax, Ford Racing 4.10's, Hypertech, 245-45-17 Goodyear Eagle F1 GS D3's, Raptor Shift Light, White Gauge Face Insert, Hurst White Classic Shift Knob, Saleen S351 Front Bumper Cover and Rear Spoiler Someday: Shorty Headers . . . Procharger? 14.4 @ 99 w/ significant traction issues until 3rd
If the kit doesn't include the window switch, get a switch to add to the kit. You DONT want to spray that shot under about 2500-2700 RPM or over 5500ish.
Spraying too soon on the bottom end leads to nitrous puddling and subsequent intake explosions and while entertaining to watch, they are expensive and absolutely no fun for the car owner.
Spraying at too high of an engine speed will lead to nasty nasty results if you snap off the throttle to shift. The ECU cuts fuel injector open times while the intake is still loaded with Nitrous and again, intake explosion or even worse, detonation and you're picking up your rotating assembly at about the 100' foot mark.
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Sometimes I think that government fits that old-fashioned definition of a baby: An alimentary canal with an appetite at one end and no sense of responsibility at the other.
- Ronald Reagan
You will want a Window Switch/Purge/Heater with that system to work it to its full potential and get the best results. If I were you spray a 100 and dont look back!