Thing I got a big problem ?

HudsStang · 07-20-2003

Hello everybody. Think I'm gonna have some Issues in the near future ? I have a 96 Gt. 70,000 miles. Just had the oil changed and have been using Penzoil and in the last year switched to the blend oil or dura blend oil. 5/30 weight. I've noticed in the morning starting the car without turning the key to run positin for a few seconds. Just starting it as soon as the door closes.The engine makes a rumble ( no oil sound ) and the pressure gauge comes up slow. Are my bearings shot or a oil pump. Anybody reccomend a oil additive to keep her going ? I change the oil every 2000 or 3000 miles .Thanks.

1998GT · 07-20-2003

how many quarts of oil did you put in it? Make sure everything is sealed up good?

Mana4Real · 07-20-2003

Try using a thicker oil... It may help a little if you have a bearing problem... You can always hook up and manual gauge to see what you oil pressure really is.

BIGTONE · 07-21-2003

every 3000 miles when i change my oil i always put prolong in.

97Red248A · 07-21-2003

Isnt 5w30 already thick??

Mana4Real · 07-21-2003

Quote:

Originally posted by 97Red248A
Isnt 5w30 already thick??

The lower the number the thinner it is.

97Red248A · 07-21-2003

I'll take your word for it then.

BIGTONE · 07-21-2003

are you positive the lower the number the thinner it is because the guy at oil changers told me the lower the number the oil is thicker. so 5w 50 would be really thick for cold starts. and the last number is the viscosity. correct me if im wrong.

RedHorse · 07-21-2003

Both numbers are for the viscosity rating, the first is when the oil is cold and the second is for when the oil is hot. The higher the numbers, the thicker the oil. Most newer vehicles require the thinner 5W? because of the tighter tolererances in modern engines. Here is some info from the web.

Oils meeting the SAE's low temperature requirements have a "W" after the viscosity rating (example: 10W), and oils that meet the high ratings have no letter (example SAE 30). An oil is rated for viscosity by heating it to a specified temperature, and then allowing it to flow out of a specifically sized hole. Its viscosity rating is determined by the length of time it takes to flow out of the hole. If it flows quickly, it gets a low rating. If it flows slowly, it gets a high rating.

Engines need oil that is thin enough for cold starts, and thick enough when the engine is hot. Since oil gets thinner when heated, and thicker when cooled, most of us use what are called multi-grade, or multi-viscosity oils. These oils meet SAE specifications for the low temperature requirements of a light oil and the high temperature requirements of a heavy oil. You will hear them referred to as multi-viscosity, all-season and all-weather oils. An example is a 10W-30 which is commonly found in stores. When choosing oil, always follow the manufacturer's recommendation.

97Red248A · 07-21-2003

Thanks for clearing that up, that was my lack of knowledge at hand once again. Thanks .

Mana4Real · 07-22-2003

I'm not going to purposely give false information. If I'm not sure, I'm gonna say so. I am absolutely positive that the small the viscosity rating the thinner it is. Look up viscosity in the dictionary, that may also clear it up for you

... I'm not trying to be a smart ass, so don't take it the wrong way.

rhetor · 07-22-2003

yeah gear lube is around an 80 weight, and that stuff is pretty thick.

It could just be that you have a crappy oil filter.

The anti-drain back valves on oil filters just plain suck.

What happens when these things stop working properly, and they do all the time, even with brand new filters, is the the oil drips down from your valve train after you turn your engine off. The oil is hot and thin, and it just starts drippin on down. The valve is supposed to keep that from happening, but like i said, the valve sucks.

It could just be that its gotta build up pressure, and the oil needs to work its way up to your valve train.

I have a 1995 F-150 with a straight six. The straight is a tall engine, and it clatters like a mofo when i start it in the morning for a few seconds. Thats normal for a 300 though. they sound enough like diesels as it is

oh and by the way, hi. i'm Tyler. I'm new.

Dropped by here because an internet friend of mine, Shartley, recomended the forum. My dad just bought a 2001 cobra

:edit: i would try simply changing to a high quality (keep in mind this is gunna cost ya an extra 2-3 dollars, so shop around. hehe) oil filter.

BIGTONE · 07-22-2003

thanx for the info. the guy at oil changers is a dumb ass. thats what i thought the lower the thinner but he argued with me and told me other wise. thanx for clearing that up and all the info.

k6vox · 07-23-2003

I would try some Lucas oil stabilizer. I have ran it in my race car for years and have it currently in my 03..It works very well and is compatible in all oils from conventional to Full synthetic. It allows the oil to stick and coat the components and not just run off under high temperatures and protects during cold start ups.

HudsStang · 07-23-2003

Thanks for the feed back guys. I might try something ? Anybody ever use Z max ? Wondering If that stuffs Ok to use ? HudsStang.