very good info here i tend to trust rj886/*richard* when it comes to anything transmission and driveline... the guy is really smart... i personally can shift without the clutch without grinding a single gear...and as a poor guy i spend the 100 bucks at Steeda for a new cast flywheel (just to make sure i dont have any heated stress cracks under my resurfacing on a stock one) and call it a day... im the type of driver that feathers the rpms no more than 950 on level ground to take off unless im hammerin it lol i let the clutch out a little then pick the rpms up a little and i personally dont mind a cast iron flywheel due to the inertia theory, i can hammer on my car and when i throw the clutch in to shift around 5 or 6k and catch the next gear by the time i am still around the 4500 power band with a cast iron flywheel... in a mostly stock car with average bolt ons but i also am yet to drive soemthing with an aluminum flywheel too sooo ya just throwin in my 2 cents
thanks again for the good info in this thread everyone
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"Its not about what you can BUY, its about what you can build" anyone can buy a really cool car, but u dont ever get the satisfaction from it as you would building it yourself 1994 Mustang GT 5.0/T5 Sold 1998 Mustang GT 4.6/T45 *soon 5.4 S/C* Flows cat-back, CAI, Ford Racing 3.73 gears, Torsen Diff, short throw shifter
Dam I went with 12 pound flywheel, is lighter, aluminum. it free up horse power I can burn the tires so easily, pulls quicker all the way to the max. I recommend it but at first you will need to get used to it. I recommend changing the driveshaft too. Ive' seen billet steel flywheels that weigh only 12 lbs too just look it up.
Last edited by 00BLACKSTANG; 10-04-2009 at 04:02 AM.
Reason: addition
Dam I went with 12 pound flywheel, is lighter, aluminum. it free up horse power I can burn the tires so easily, pulls quicker all the way to the max. I recommend it but at first you will need to get used to it. I recommend changing the driveshaft too. Ive' seen billet steel flywheels that weigh only 12 lbs too just look it up.
If saving weight in the drivetrain is a goal, I would recommend going with the lightweight driveshaft FIRST. Unlike the flywheel, the driveshaft is downstream of the clutch, and will have only positive effects on driveability in a daily driver.
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tripleblack
"You can never be free until you let yourself go."
For a bolt on GT that see's alot of street use, a set of 4.10s, FRPP aluminum driveshaft, clutch rated for 400hp, and a fidanza aluminum flywheel is a sweet setup. Don't forget to change the pilot bearing while you're in there!
hey just wanted to throw my .02 in here. love my new aluminum flywheel. greatest thing ever. love how quickly it wraps. once my clutch gets broken i cant wait to see how it does at WOT.
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1997 GT Coupe. CAI and Flow 40' Duals w/ o/r x pipe, Spec Stage 1 Clutch, Spec Aluminum flyhwheel. SCT 91 Race Tune, hurst short/slanted shifter......."other mods may not be known"
Save a tree, kill a ricer
"You can put it off, but it's a matter of time till it fails and leaves you with the rubber-sole express......"
Last edited by dick.breakey; 1 Week Ago at 06:00 PM.
Reason: incomplete thought haha
You're gonna love it dick, it really pulls through the gears harder, and rev matching for shifts is easier if you do that.
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That hunk of junk? Yeah, well I've made a few special modifications to that yellow 99 Gt, it makes the Kessel run in 12 parsecs and eats turbo japs and poops chevy's
what is rev matching?
what is considered powershifting?
what is speed shifting?
and what is short shifting?
i hear these things all around the car world, but have never known an actual real definition. i have a good idea what these are, but i just wanna see if im even close. thanks
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1997 GT Coupe. CAI and Flow 40' Duals w/ o/r x pipe, Spec Stage 1 Clutch, Spec Aluminum flyhwheel. SCT 91 Race Tune, hurst short/slanted shifter......."other mods may not be known"
Save a tree, kill a ricer
"You can put it off, but it's a matter of time till it fails and leaves you with the rubber-sole express......"
what is rev matching?
what is considered powershifting?
what is speed shifting?
and what is short shifting?
i hear these things all around the car world, but have never known an actual real definition. i have a good idea what these are, but i just wanna see if im even close. thanks
Here ya go...
Rev matching is blipping the throttle to bring the rpms to the same speed they would be at if it were in gear at the speed you are going. Makes going into gear much easier, if you get it right you can shift without the clutch at all, but I don't recommend this.
Powershifting is shifting gears at full throttle, no lifting the gas pedal and doing the clutch as fast as possible. Its hell on the car, and can destroy the tranny if done wrong and over rev the engine, but it can also lead to better et's.
Speed shifting is lifting on the throttle a bit when you shift, but not completely, keeps the rpms up for the next gear.
Short shifting is shifting into the next gear early, like say barely getting moving and going to 2nd.
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That hunk of junk? Yeah, well I've made a few special modifications to that yellow 99 Gt, it makes the Kessel run in 12 parsecs and eats turbo japs and poops chevy's
Hey guys, I'm new to the forum. I found this thread fairly useful. I already have a spec stage 2 clutch that is going out... and I am thinking about getting a 2+ or a 3 with a lightened flywheel.
I, too was wondering about getting a lightened flywheel and driveline. Also, as a side note, I have been considering throwing a tko tranny in because I don't think my stock tranny will be able to take the abuse of having a higher performance/hp car, even having it rebuilt to handle more hp.
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CAI W/80mm MAF, Custom H-Pipe W/Flowmasters, Eibach Springs from Germany, Air Springs Rear Kit, Adjustable Rear Shocks, Spec Stage 2 Clutch Kit, Billet Aluminum Clutch Quadrant, Drilled And Slotted Rotors, Offset Rack Bushings, Underdrive Pulleys, Pro 5.0 Short Throw, 3.73 Gears, 31-spline Traction-LOK, Lakewood Lower Control Traction Lift Bars, Trick flow diff cover, Axle brace, 275/55/17 rear and 255/50/17 front, Caster/Camber Plates, Ported Intake Plume, Aftermarket Radiator Fan
i tend to trust rj886/*richard* when it comes to anything transmission and driveline... the guy is really smart... i personally can shift without the clutch without grinding a single gear...and as a poor guy i spend the 100 bucks at Steeda for a new cast flywheel (just to make sure i dont have any heated stress cracks under my resurfacing on a stock one) and call it a day... im the type of driver that feathers the rpms no more than 950 on level ground to take off unless im hammerin it lol i let the clutch out a little then pick the rpms up a little and i personally dont mind a cast iron flywheel due to the inertia theory, i can hammer on my car and when i throw the clutch in to shift around 5 or 6k and catch the next gear by the time i am still around the 4500 power band with a cast iron flywheel... in a mostly stock car with average bolt ons but i also am yet to drive soemthing with an aluminum flywheel too sooo ya just throwin in my 2 cents 
