Ok so i finally decided to get my nitrous set up, i decided to go with the ZEX wet kit 100 shot. Before i actually get the kit i want to get anything else i might need that doesnt come with the ZEX kit, which im getting from AM, things like a window switch, purge kit, injectors/fuel rails/fuel pump ANYTHING i will need to run the 100 shot SAFELY!!!!!!! And i also want a list of other things like guages and other accesories i will need to monitor and control everything
Window switch (MSD 8969 needs no tach adapter and is digital) set for 3500 on and 6000 off, bottle warmer and a purge. The purge is not really necessary as you can purge through the motor. Run 1 step colder plugs NGK TR6 at .035 gap.
You do not need bigger injectors, unless it's a dry kit. Unless you have upped the timing on your stock tune (handheld performance tune or custom chip), you can probably run without a tune for 100 shot. My first nitrous kit was the NX plate kit. I ran that on the 100 shot for awhile on the stock tune. Had a straight 12.5:1 A/F ratio with the stock tune.
When I upped to the 150 shot, I invested in a focus pump. It didn't fix the lean spike problem I was having, so I bought a KB Boost-a-pump. No more lean spike issues after installing the BAP.
I ran the 150 shot on the stock bottom end for awhile, but eventually went forged. Keep it at 150 shot or less, forged or not. I had puddling issues when going to a bigger shot. That is why I bought the NOSzle direct port kit earlier this year.
For gauges I run an LC-1 wideband w/ DB gauge for A/F ratio and a dynotune digital nitrous pressure gauge. It comes with a remote sensor, so you can install it easily, without running braided line. It's way better than looking at a tiny little gauge on the bottle.
Window switch (MSD 8969 needs no tach adapter and is digital) set for 3500 on and 6000 off, bottle warmer and a purge. The purge is not really necessary as you can purge through the motor. Run 1 step colder plugs NGK TR6 at .035 gap.
You do not need bigger injectors, unless it's a dry kit. Unless you have upped the timing on your stock tune (handheld performance tune or custom chip), you can probably run without a tune for 100 shot. My first nitrous kit was the NX plate kit. I ran that on the 100 shot for awhile on the stock tune. Had a straight 12.5:1 A/F ratio with the stock tune.
When I upped to the 150 shot, I invested in a focus pump. It didn't fix the lean spike problem I was having, so I bought a KB Boost-a-pump. No more lean spike issues after installing the BAP.
I ran the 150 shot on the stock bottom end for awhile, but eventually went forged. Keep it at 150 shot or less, forged or not. I had puddling issues when going to a bigger shot. That is why I bought the NOSzle direct port kit earlier this year.
For gauges I run an LC-1 wideband w/ DB gauge for A/F ratio and a dynotune digital nitrous pressure gauge. It comes with a remote sensor, so you can install it easily, without running braided line. It's way better than looking at a tiny little gauge on the bottle.
Yes, just follow the instructions for the bottle heater install. Dynotunenitrous sells a high output one for $120. Very nice quality, with good instructions.
No, your kit (after looking at it) is a single nozzle kit.
It is one of three types of kits available. A nozzle kit plumbs in your air intake. There is nothing wrong with this kit for moderate power levels, 100-150hp.
The second type of kit is a plate kit. It just sandwiches a plate with a spraybar, in between your upper plenum and lower intake. This will get slightly better atomization of the fuel and nitrous, as it is spraying closer to the intake ports.
The third type of kit is direct port. It is usually hard plumbed, by drilling an intake and inserting nozzles for each cylinder. In the case of the NOSzle kit, it sandwiches in between your lower intake manifold injector ports and injectors. This allows for individual cylinder nitrous/fuel spray. It has the best atomization and has no risk of fuel puddling at higher power levels.
You must have edited your msg while I was typing, or I just missed the last little bit.
The noszle kit is better if you're wanting to go to higher HP shot down the line. For someone who is wanting to spray 100-150 shot, a single nozzle or plate kit is just as good.
It just so happens I'm selling my kit as a conversion kit, in the classifieds section. In your case, I don't think it's necessary. Just a note to those interested.
I deffenetly dont plan on going over a 100 shot, so maybe ill just stick with the zex kit since you its just as good, only thing i am worried about with the zex is puddling. Do you think that is going to be an issue for me, i dont want my intake to blow up! Is there anything i can do to prevent puddling? any kind of mods or products or anything like that?
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2003 Mustang GT auto
Accufab 70mm TB and Plenum
BBK CAI
PP intake manifold
Flowmaster mufflers (no cats)
Diablo sport tune
Motive 3.90 gears
Tokico D-spec adjustable shocks/struts
Yes and no. It's better in that you can spray a much bigger shot, without risk of fuel puddling. Aside from that it's really just the same thing. If you're not looking to spray 175+, then it doesn't have any real benefit over a nozzle or plate kit. As long as you spray above 3000rpm, at WOT only, and are spraying 150hp or less. You shouldn't have puddling issues with the nozzle or plate kit, either. I recommend setting the on point to 3500. You never drop much below 4000rpm on a shift (with bigger gears) anyway, so there is no real point in spraying at 3000rpm.
I will say this one thing. I'm not a fan of Zex kits. If I were looking to spray up to a max of 150, I would go for the NX Plate kit all over again. They can be had for $550 new, depending on what place you buy them from.
Haha, you edited your last post, so the beginning of my last reply looks totally out of context.
The plate kit is a wet kit. A dry kit sprays nitrous only and a wet kit sprays fuel and nitrous. Puddling only happens with wet kits, but it can be avoided. Like I mentioned above, pick up an MSD 8969 window switch and set the on point to 3500 and off to 6000. You will have no nitrous backfire/puddling issues.
Don't forget to drop a heat range on spark plugs and get a 180F thermostat.
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Sometimes I think that government fits that old-fashioned definition of a baby: An alimentary canal with an appetite at one end and no sense of responsibility at the other.
- Ronald Reagan
With any nitrous you should get a tune, its silly not to and can get real expensive. The zex kit is a real good one, and depending on which one you got, it should come with most of what you need, but definitely get a tune.
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That hunk of junk? Yeah, well I've made a few special modifications to that yellow 99 Gt, it makes the Kessel run in 12 parsecs and eats turbo japs and poops chevy's
Ok so i think i have the list together now tell me if this is correct
-zex nitrous kit(obviously)
-purge kit
-bottle heater
-colder plugs
-bigger injectors
-maybe a fuel pump(in case it runs too lean)
-window switch
-A/F ratio guage
-nitrous pressure guage
-180* thermostat
Now i think thats everything if i missed something please let me know!!!
I have just two more questions(for now lol)
1. is the msd window switch a whole lot better than the zex window switch? just trying to learn a little bit more about the products and my options
2. My second question is how many of you run a safety blow down kit? how "necessary" are they or is it just a good idea to get one?
Thanks for all the helo guys!!!!!!
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2003 Mustang GT auto
Accufab 70mm TB and Plenum
BBK CAI
PP intake manifold
Flowmaster mufflers (no cats)
Diablo sport tune
Motive 3.90 gears
Tokico D-spec adjustable shocks/struts
Nitrous preperation 
