Tubular K-member Kit?

RichardClarke · 09-22-2009

Has anyone ever used a kit like this before? There doesnt seem to be alot of detail here about the springs but my question is more about k-member kits in general rather than this particular product:

96-04 QA1 FORD MUSTANG TUBULAR K MEMBER KIT SUSPENSION on eBay.ca (item 300347867872 end time 24-Sep-09 13:33:59 EDT)

If I go with a coil over spring set up on my car, am I going to do any fab work to beef up the strut mounts to take the extra load of whole front end? Is there going to be allignment issues? Any other issues you can think of? Does that kit above look like it's too good to be true?

Thanks again,
Rich

01FordCobra · 09-22-2009

The kit is a decent kit, however i would definitely want to know what spring rate they are. I have a QA1 K Member and was pretty easy to install. If you get caster camber plates you should not have any alignment issues and as far as beefing up the strut mounts. I have not heard of anyone needing to do so.

jaylop1986 · 09-22-2009

I have the qa1 set up it was farly easy to in stall there were 2 holes that I had to reem out a bit to get the bolt holes to line up but that's the only issue I had with it

RichardClarke · 09-23-2009

Excellent, thanks for the help guys.

steeda1999 · 09-23-2009

I decided to go with PA-racing when I did mine. UPR isn't a bad kit, but for a little extra money there are better ones out there. You will want caster camber plates and you will want to make sure that the tubular control arms have the SN-95 ball joints pressed in on them. I'd go with a spring rate of 200 and a decent set of struts like tokico D-spec, Illumina, or billsteins. The Maximum Motorsports 4 bolt CC plates are awesome. Their K-member offsets the front, and causes the front wheels to move forward to the point that it is noticable, otherwise I would suggest that MM K-member as being the most durable.

Are you doing long tubes as well? Dring a K-member install would be the time to do it.

RichardClarke · 09-27-2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by steeda1999

I decided to go with PA-racing when I did mine. UPR isn't a bad kit, but for a little extra money there are better ones out there. You will want caster camber plates and you will want to make sure that the tubular control arms have the SN-95 ball joints pressed in on them. I'd go with a spring rate of 200 and a decent set of struts like tokico D-spec, Illumina, or billsteins. The Maximum Motorsports 4 bolt CC plates are awesome. Their K-member offsets the front, and causes the front wheels to move forward to the point that it is noticable, otherwise I would suggest that MM K-member as being the most durable.

Are you doing long tubes as well? Dring a K-member install would be the time to do it.

Thanks for the response. Yeah I got MAC LT's waiting to go. I'm actually taking my rusted out GT Body, pulling the motor, tranny, and rear end...rebuilding the motor with go fast goodies and stuffing it all into a rust free v6 body, so i figured I would go with a tubular structure while im at it.

2oo5GT · 09-27-2009

I had the QA1 for my Saleen. Had to make a hole on the driverside for the alignment pin of the motormount to go sit in, but that was cake. The weight difference is awesome though. Def easy to do. Did it by myself in the drive way.

racin366 · 09-27-2009

I've heard a lot of issues with the QA1 k-member, the consensus seems to be its well worth it to go with the UPR one. Also, steeda just released a new one that doesn't require coilovers or tubular arms so that might be a better choice. Not sure why you're going with the tubular over stock, the weight savings are only about 18lbs and unless you are running a turbo setup it may be unecessary, with turbo you need the extra clearance.

RichardClarke · 10-14-2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by racin366

I've heard a lot of issues with the QA1 k-member, the consensus seems to be its well worth it to go with the UPR one. Also, steeda just released a new one that doesn't require coilovers or tubular arms so that might be a better choice. Not sure why you're going with the tubular over stock, the weight savings are only about 18lbs and unless you are running a turbo setup it may be unecessary, with turbo you need the extra clearance.

Like you said I'm not really going for the weight savings. My k is in rough shape, from a badly rusted body. Also I feel like it would provide more room to work later on especially with LT headers and the fact that I can do coil over is cool too.

jarhead2269 · 10-15-2009

[quote=steeda1999;1722388]The Maximum Motorsports 4 bolt CC plates are awesome. Their K-member offsets the front, and causes the front wheels to move forward to the point that it is noticable, otherwise I would suggest that MM K-member as being the most durable.

Would this offset make the tires rub? I plan on gettin the Maximum grip box which has this and I also plan on gettin a body kit, but I'm not gonna get this k-member if its gonna mess my stuff up

jgorm · 10-15-2009

[quote=jarhead2269;1751781]

Quote:

Originally Posted by steeda1999

The Maximum Motorsports 4 bolt CC plates are awesome. Their K-member offsets the front, and causes the front wheels to move forward to the point that it is noticable

There are 2 versions of the MM K, standard, and forward offset. I bought the standard and am almost done with the install.
Picture link

RichardClarke · 2 Weeks Ago

SO I finally got all my suspension pieces in, and they're all from URP. K-member with coil over kit, bump steer kit, 4-bolt caster camber plates, adjustable upper and lower control arms, MM full length sub frame connectors...can't wait to get this stuff on!!

I didn't get new shocks yet though because I hear that some shocks have strength issues with the coil over kit. What's your guys take on this? Which shocks should I use that are reasonablly priced, and will last me a long time..and also have good preformance.

THanks again!