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Old 1 Week Ago   #1 (permalink)
boxinabag is offline Rookie


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Default 2000 Mustang tapping noise from under the motor

OK, let me just start from the beginning.

I needed new exhaust (the old was so bad it rattled and I was able to twist it to get it to come out, didnt have to cut it haha).

So I bought the Pypes "The Beast" kit from American muscle (O/R X pipe and Violator Catback). And it was a beast to put on, needed to bend the hell out of the xpipe and cut a flowtube about 3 inches off so it wouldnt hit the gas tank.

After 2 days of fighting this thing, I finally got it on, even had to take it back out because I forgot to put the insert in for the driver side manifold. So finally got it back in, no more loud ass exhaust leak.

Drove it for a while and it sounded great.

After a few days I got sick of the stupid idle problem (I have had this since I bought it 2 years ago) where it would fluctuate, especially with AC running, and it also was making a noise at idle. The noise sounded like it was coming from the engine bay and would really make some noise when you rev up and let it fall back down. It sounded like metal hitting something. So I was going to have those two things looked at but first I needed gas, got gas, and the noise stopped..... ofcourse. So I had the idle problem checked out, I had some vaccuum leaks and needed the intake cleaned, which supposably was everything on air and fuel side (intake manifold, injectors, etc).

So now it is idling just fine, but the noise just came back on my way home today. It will stop than come back, and I noticed when the car is warmed up it seems to really stop, but when cold it does it.

It sounds like its coming by the manifolds, but it is hard to tell. You can not hear it if you pop the hood and are standing in front of it, you have to be on the side or on the ground. I don't think it is the heads (I hope to god its not haha) and I do not have any oil leaks or power loss on the car, the only other noticeable problem is the car dropping to about 200-300 RPM when stopping than idling just fine.

What do you all think? I am sick of giving money to mechanics to "diagnose" the problem and than having another one a day later. Any ides?

Thanks everyone
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Old 1 Week Ago   #2 (permalink)
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might be your lash adjusters(lifters). does it feel like it has no power if yes it can be the rob bearings, or maybe your cats since you install an exhaust but maybe not. for idle check IAC, TPS, air meter dirty?, check all vacuum lines for loose, torn.
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Old 1 Week Ago   #3 (permalink)
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The idle problem was resolved, all leaks were fixed and everything was cleaned, it idles just fine now, except when stopping, but that feels like a draw (lights dim and what not).

The new exhaust is an O/R so it has no cats on it, and the sound is not very loud and can really only be heard from under the car, I will try and get a video tomorrow of it after work.

It definitely has power to it.

Also the motor has 140,000 miles to it, should I consider rebuilding it?
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Old 1 Week Ago   #4 (permalink)
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to me it either sound like an leak or your lifters really and truely i would think its your lifters from the milage and beacause of the symptoms that you gave me but thats just me feel free to listen to the others
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Old 1 Week Ago   #5 (permalink)
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Tap/tick under engine...Not in engine bay...only heard from side...popping in exhaust...crazy idle...surge at idle...sound seems to come and go...gets louder when warmed....

CHECK............................................. .......

Got it all my friend. Im thinking the tapping/ticking is a bad exhaust manifold (passenger)...for me at least. Does the noise go away if you rev the motor at idle? Do you hear a ticking at WOT at low rpm's? As for the idle problem.....I had my entire induction cleaned..(egr ports, plenum, MAF,fuel injectors ect) and..put a new IAC (Idle air controller) which I was told was the problem, and still does the same surge/ dropping thing. It will surge..hang out for about 3-7 seconds then drop like bloap.bloap.bloap....lol Who the hell knows...Have you tried to replace you I.A.C ? This may help you. Let me know what you find. Im sick of bringing it too mechanic's and they tell me they can't hear the noise or that something needs to be replaced and it doesnt.

But yea check for exhaust manifold leaks and IAC. my 2 cents..Good luck
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Old 1 Week Ago   #6 (permalink)
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You and I are in the EXACT same boat haha, my entire induction was cleaned and vaccum lines replaced. I replaced the IAC first thing when I bought it .

I took some videos today (in HD!!! ) and will upload them tonight once the wife leaves me alone .

Yeah I just noticed it does not increase in volume or quantity with rev, but instead it is heard when the motor falls (let off the throttle).

I will get those vids up later.

I am considering a 302 though.... tired of jacking with this thing haha
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Old 1 Week Ago   #7 (permalink)
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Add me to the list. I have had a knocking that is loudest at the passenger side wheel well. Been through a rebuilt 2V, a rebuilt timing system and now the new 4V. Leads me to the exhaust or the transmission. When revved, it goes away.

Edit:
Here is a video. You can slightly hear it at the very end.

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Old 1 Week Ago   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JC316 View Post
Add me to the list. I have had a knocking that is loudest at the passenger side wheel well. Been through a rebuilt 2V, a rebuilt timing system and now the new 4V. Leads me to the exhaust or the transmission. When revved, it goes away.

Edit:
Here is a video. You can slightly hear it at the very end.


This sounds a little different than mine but is close. The only thing that is different with my noise is that you cant really notice it until it returns to idle and then it starts. Your noise sounds more like a tap that follows down with the rpm's...but could be wrong. Deff. something going on there though. I have been having some tranny problems and have been hearing some heavy clanking at idle. Do you ever hear popping noises just sitting still? I ll post my car tomorrow and you tell me if you think it sounds the same. Im hoping the audio in my cheap camera doesnt suck to bad..
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Old 1 Week Ago   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boxinabag View Post
You and I are in the EXACT same boat haha, my entire induction was cleaned and vaccum lines replaced. I replaced the IAC first thing when I bought it .

I took some videos today (in HD!!! ) and will upload them tonight once the wife leaves me alone .

Yeah I just noticed it does not increase in volume or quantity with rev, but instead it is heard when the motor falls (let off the throttle).

I will get those vids up later.

I am considering a 302 though.... tired of jacking with this thing haha
Oh yea? lol...I wish we had like the exact same mods or something rather than this stupid noise. But yea if your sitting at idle and get out of the car, you can hear it coming from under the engine and if you pop the hood all you hear is the slight tick of the injector's. At this time you cant hear the other noise. But step to the side, diff. story..When your driving you cant really hear it at WOT can you? If you start slow from say 2nd..does your car sound like an old ford truck? Glug Glug Glug. When Im driving I usually hear it from like 1000-3000 then it gets drowned out by my flowasters. And the idle thing really pisses me off. Like I said I had the "Ford" dealer bend me over and tell me all this crap like my IAC was out of range and my induction needed cleaning..IT WAS ALL BS!!! The minute I got it back it did the same stupid surge thing. It idles ok, but say I am pulling to a stop and push the clutch in; the rpm's jump to say 1200 hang out and then suddenly drop. Sometimes it hangs out forever...Im thinking of replacing my TPS next..You do this yet? Post the video and Ill post a video of mine tomorrow.
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Old 1 Week Ago   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by little-razcal View Post
This sounds a little different than mine but is close. The only thing that is different with my noise is that you cant really notice it until it returns to idle and then it starts. Your noise sounds more like a tap that follows down with the rpm's...but could be wrong. Deff. something going on there though. I have been having some tranny problems and have been hearing some heavy clanking at idle. Do you ever hear popping noises just sitting still? I ll post my car tomorrow and you tell me if you think it sounds the same. Im hoping the audio in my cheap camera doesnt suck to bad..
Mine is only at idle. As soon as the engine reaches 1100RPM or so it shuts up.
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Old 1 Week Ago   #11 (permalink)
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Check this out..I got a little sick reading this TSB from Ford


Article No.
03-25-6

12/22/03

ENGINE - ROMEO BUILT 4.6L 2V - TICK NOISE FROM ENGINE - ENGINES BUILT BEFORE 9/17/2003

FORD:
2001-2004 CROWN VICTORIA, [COLOR=#c80000! important][COLOR=#c80000! important]MUSTANG[/color][/color], E SERIES, EXPEDITION, F-150
2002-2004 EXPLORER

LINCOLN:
2001-2004 TOWN CAR

MERCURY:
2001-2004 GRAND MARQUIS
2002-2004 MOUNTAINEER

This article supersedes TSB 03-16-4 to update the engine, engine build date and part numbers.

ISSUE
Some vehicles, equipped with the Romeo built 4.6L 2V engine, with an "ENGINE BUILD DATE" prior to 9/17/2003 may exhibit an engine tick noise that is present at all temperatures during idle. The noise may be emanating from the valve guide area in the cylinder head. The noise may be more prevalent in the front wheel well area and may not be heard with the hood open.

ACTION
Follow the Service Procedure listed in this article to properly evaluate/diagnose the vehicle condition.

SERVICE PROCEDURE

NOTE THIS ARTICLE APPLIES ONLY TO VEHICLES WITH A "ROMEO ENGINE" BUILT BEFORE 9/17/2003 (ENGINE BUILD DATE NOT VEHICLE BUILD DATE). THE ENGINE BUILD DATE IS TYPICALLY FOUND ON THE ENGINE LABEL LOCATED ON THE VALVE COVER.

1. Verify the source of the noise by placing a stethoscope on the back of the cylinder head near the exhaust ports.

2. Verify that the noise is heard in the exhaust system (in the wheel well or catalytic converter area, from underneath the vehicle).

3. Verify that there are no [COLOR=#c80000! important][COLOR=#c80000! important]exhaust [COLOR=#c80000! important]manifold[/color][/color][/color] leaks.

4. Verify that the tick noise is still present when canceling each cylinder, by unplugging the injectors one at a time.

5. Check to make sure that the camshaft spacers are in place. If not, install cam spacers (per Workshop Manual Section 303-01) and retest vehicle.

6. Check for proper cam sprocket bolt torque, re-torque to specification (per Workshop Manual Section 303-01).

7. Check hydraulic lash adjusters for a possible "spongy" condition (refer to Workshop Manual Section 303-00).

8. Verify that the timing chain tensioner pin has been removed.


If the above diagnostics do not eliminate the noise while the cylinders are cancelled, replace the cylinder head and cam assembly with Part Number 4L3Z-6049-AA (RH) or 4L3Z-6049-BA (LH). Refer to Workshop Manual Section 303-01 for cylinder head replacement procedures.

NOTE THE REPLACEMENT CYLINDER HEAD WILL NOT IMPROVE OR REDUCE PERFORMANCE.
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Old 1 Week Ago   #12 (permalink)
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wow all these information gives me a headache, good luck every one.
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Old 1 Week Ago   #13 (permalink)
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OK!

Got two videos, first is of the sound, second is a quick rev of the exhaust.


- strange noise

- Exhaust rev

and yes the drivers side does hang a bit lower, havent had time to fix that haha
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Old 1 Week Ago   #14 (permalink)
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Man, that is weird. Almost sounds like your flywheel hitting something. Another theory that I have is that my starter isn't fully disengaging and it clatters against the flywheel.

BTW, I love that exhaust. Reminds me of my old 350 silverado.
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Old 1 Week Ago   #15 (permalink)
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[quote=boxinabag;1786687]OK!


I hear the tick at idle and that crazy clanking. It sounds like your exhaust manifold.....IMO...or......you could have a bad CC which will make clanking noise...Are those stock cats? How many miles?
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