i have a 2001 5spd gt and am debating between vortech v2 supercharger or hightech stage II cams with a set of 3.73 gears. what do you guys think would be best? i have mickey thompson drag radial would my rear end and trans be able to handle either one of these with the drag radials?
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"Let me get this straight ... your honda has 1.8 liters where as my mountain dew has 2?"
"Hondas are like cigarettes everybody who is cool smokes them!!"
go with the cam and gears now but get a cam that will work good with a s/c and save up for the s/c and yes it will but when you start gettin up in the hp range you need to renfoce the rearend. so cam and 3.73 say for s/c while savin get some supision work dun. sorry bout spelling cant spell and tired dubble wammie
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1994 Mustang GT 5.0 HO (sold)
2004 Mustang GT
5spd, KnN CAI kit, Accufab 75mm TB & Plenum, Tri-Ax Short Throw Shifter, BBK Underdrive Pullies, Magnaflow Magnapacks catback..LOUD!!!!, 4.10 Ford Raceing Gears, SCT 4 Bank Custome Chip.
2006 Yamaha R6 Raven (dead )
2005 Harley Davidson Custom Roadster 1200
Orange with Blue flames... WAR EAGLE!!!
yeah the cams w/ gears will be a good combination with a good tune. I recommend a bigger air mass meter too. The S/C will be a lot more expensive around ~3800~ more plus install. Then with S/C im pretty sure what ever cams you get that will help for a NA motor will not be so good with a S/C. S/c will cost even more since you will be needing to reinforce all internal pistons, crank, rods if not you will only have fun for a week to 3 weeks. good luck
supercharger hands down. you will get much mroe power out of it, have so much more potential, and maintain 100% of your driveability and like 95% of your mileage.
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Procharged 2002 Mustang GT 5 Speed 351rwhp 353rwtq at 10psi
Next summer looking to go with:
Bilstien shocks + struts, Lowering springs (brand still TBD (any suggestions?)), MM CC plates, front + rear sway bars, subframes, and upper and lower control arms.
Time to make the pony ride some rails
supercharger hands down. you will get much mroe power out of it, have so much more potential, and maintain 100% of your driveability and like 95% of your mileage.
Yup! More potential, less compromise (except for the initial cost!)
id go radical cams and gears. but then agian im a proponent of n/a motors
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1997 GT Coupe. Lets call it stock. Woopie CAI Intake and Flow 40' Duals w/ o/r x pipe, Spec Stage 1 Clutch, Spec Aluminum flyhwheel. hurst short/slanted shifter......."other mods may not be known"
Save a tree, kill a ricer
"You can put it off, but it's a matter of time till it fails and leaves you with the rubber-sole express......"
i was leaning towards the vortech v2 over the cams and gears. but with the vortech i dont think i will need to reinforce the engine pistions, crank, ect right?? vortech says its safe to run on a stock engine
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"Let me get this straight ... your honda has 1.8 liters where as my mountain dew has 2?"
"Hondas are like cigarettes everybody who is cool smokes them!!"
most s/c's are able to be ran on stock bottom end. just no more than 8-9lbs of boost. now ive heard of some who run more. but they are lucky their bottom end doesnt shred apart haha. 8-9 for a dd is good. maybe more for a couple pulls down the track or on a dyno pull. but id say thats it.
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1997 GT Coupe. Lets call it stock. Woopie CAI Intake and Flow 40' Duals w/ o/r x pipe, Spec Stage 1 Clutch, Spec Aluminum flyhwheel. hurst short/slanted shifter......."other mods may not be known"
Save a tree, kill a ricer
"You can put it off, but it's a matter of time till it fails and leaves you with the rubber-sole express......"
safe to run? maybe for a few months. I would do stage 2 heads n cams but im just a n/a stang motor. if do it the right way you can get just about the same power as the S/C @ 6 to 9 boost
Vortech w/o a doubt, keep the boost low and have a good tune. Cams & gears you would enjoy but would still be wanting more and then wondering if you should have gone with the vortech. I had almost full bolt-ons and spent quite a bit on those. Once I got my Vortech I was in awe, should of been the main thing I did in the first place.
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04 GT Convertible
Vortech V3 Supercharged
Flow 40'S
Bassani O/R X-Pipe
FRPP 3.73'S
Accufab Plenum & 75MM TB Mods sitting in garage awaiting to be installed: 3.33" Pulley, & Anderson Powerpipe
Also, install the Vortech Kit yourself. I don't consider myself a mechanical guru by far, I know some basics. I had a couple buddies help me and we knocked out the install in less than 2 days, should have really been just one. That alone will save you anywhere from $700-1000K
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04 GT Convertible
Vortech V3 Supercharged
Flow 40'S
Bassani O/R X-Pipe
FRPP 3.73'S
Accufab Plenum & 75MM TB Mods sitting in garage awaiting to be installed: 3.33" Pulley, & Anderson Powerpipe
safe to run? maybe for a few months. if do it the right way you can get just about the same power as the S/C @ 6 to 9 boost
Yes, with good routine maintenance, a safe tune and not over 8-9# of boost you can run safe for a long time.
I doubt you can make a daily driver put out the same power as a S/C car with 6-9# of boost that will last long in the 4.6L SOHC for much less than a S/C kit.
My setup has 41,000+ miles on it, Does not smoke, knock, leak, or other issue. I run 8-9# of boost and drive the car 75+ miles a day. The S/C kit has been on for 2 1/2 years and I installed it myself. My car has been driven in current form in 0*F to 107*F weather and on 12 hour trips getting 25.5mpg on the interstate.
This 2000 GT has the original "untouched" engine with 120,000 miles. The oil pan, water pump, intake covers, etc haven't been touched since it was assembled back in the fall of 1999.
The trick to longevity on these engines is a conservative tune and good routine maintenance.
My vote is for a supercharger, but make sure you intercool it. That ALSO will ensure a longer lasting engine. I did the gears, and almost all the other bolt ons except internal mods like cams.
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"Ignore that whistle, it's just a vacuum leak."
2000 Mustang GT:
Saleen Series IV Twin Screw, Chicane I/C, AFCO Extreme H/E, 2.8" pulley, FMS 42# injectors, Dual Catted 2 1/2" UPR X Pipe, UPR LCAs/UCAs, 2 1/2" Flowmaster American Thunder kit, 90mm LMAF, 112" Goodyear Gatorback, Kenne Bell BAP, Mosaleen idler, T-56, Detroit TrueTrac w/ 373s, Demolet 100mm CAI, SCT XCal2 with JDM Engineering 93 Octane "Race" tune.
the kit i am planning on buying is used with only 500 miles on it. the guy is giving me the xcal tuner that already has the tune needed for the supercharger. he said it will be fine as long as i dont have cams or anything like that. you guys think that tune would be fine?
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"Let me get this straight ... your honda has 1.8 liters where as my mountain dew has 2?"
"Hondas are like cigarettes everybody who is cool smokes them!!"
2001 mustang gt, 4r70w,upr o/r x pipe, flowmasters, mil eliminators, 70mm pp tb, K&N CAI, BBKU/D pulleys, max motorsports CC plates, max motorsports string rack bushings, X2ball joints, F cntrl arm bushings, UPR frame connectors, Tokico hp shocks and struts, Steeda frnt sway bar, Steeda sway bar brackets, sway bar endlinks, Steeda bumpsteer kit, BBK spring isolators, H&R ss springs, UPR rear upper and lower control arms, UPR upper axle bushings, UPR reinforced torque boxes
Supercharger, without a doubt. If you hook on either setup you're going to have a lot of work to do if you don't want to break things. You can't just add power and go unfortunately, you need better axles, control arms, reinforce the torque boxes, input shaft, clutch... The whole thing needs to be built to support your goals.
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That hunk of junk? Yeah, well I've made a few special modifications to that yellow 99 Gt, it makes the Kessel run in 12 parsecs and eats turbo japs and poops chevy's
supercharger or cams and gears?? 
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