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Unread 01-05-2010   #1 (permalink)
Bullitt5339 is offline Top Dog

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Default How To: Replace Wheel Bearings/Hub Assembly

Guys, I did this a little while ago, and let me tell you, this is by far the easiest thing I've replaced on the car. I hadn't done a hub on a Mustang yet, but dove into it, and laughed when I was done. It literally takes 15-20 minutes start to finish, but books for an hour labor at the shop. So save yourself $60, and do it yourself, and you'll laugh also. The wheel bearings in the front of the Mustang are not replaceable (well, they are, but it's a pain to find them), and after seeing that the entire hub is only $45 from RockAuto, it's well worth the $15 extra to buy the entire hub, and not have to worry about pressing the bearings out an in.

Tools Needed:

Lug Wrench
Jack
Jack Stands
36mm socket (can be rented from Autozone)
ratchet
breaker bar
Torque Wrench 250ft lb capable (can be rented from Autozone)
15mm socket
rubber mallet

Parts Needed:

New Hub Assembly ($45 from RockAuto)
New Spindle Nut ($8 from RockAuto)
New dust cover ($4 from Ford)

#1: Jack the car up and remove the wheel.

#2: Crack open the bleeder valve for the brakes. This will make getting them off a lot easier.

#3: Remove the caliper and bracket together by unbolting the 2 15mm bolts from the back. Tuck it up behind the strut, out of the way.

#4: Remove the brake rotor. Just pulls right off.

#5: Remove the dust cap from the hub with a screwdriver or small prybar.

#6: Using a 36mm socket, remove the factory spindle nut, and throw it away. YOU MUST USE A NEW NUT EVERYTIME YOU REMOVE IT!!!!

#7: A few gentle taps with a mallet will take the hub right off. Part of my offending bad bearing stayed behind, so a few more taps, and it was off also.

#8: Clean the spindle up with some brake cleaner

#9: Slide the new hub on the spindle

#10: Tighten the new spindle nut TIGHT!!!!. It calls for a torque value of 258ft lbs. I know most torque wrenches don't go that high, so you have to check it out first. The one I had went to 250ft lbs, so I went until it clicked, and then leaned on it a little bit more.

#11: Put a new dustcap on the new hub, and tap it on with a rubber mallet.

#12: Reinstall the brake rotor

#13: Reinstall the brake caliper

#14: Bleed the brakes since you had the bleeder screw open

#15: Put your wheel back on.

And you're done. Super Easy fix that takes no time.
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Unread 01-05-2010   #2 (permalink)
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thanks man i need to do this and was kinda afraid to jump in it.. seems easy enoughf
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Unread 03-06-2010   #3 (permalink)
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I did it yesterday night. All went very smooth for my 99 cobra with 100k miles.
I didn't even need to remove the bleeder.
2 hours total for left and right, taking the time to do thing properly on my baby

I advise to change both hub bearing at the same time... From my experience, when 1 side start to make noise, the other will follow soon.
Also if you can fell the wheel moving up and down when jacking the car and hold the wheel 12om/6pm, change the hub bearing.

Now the result is amazing. I don't have small knocking noise coming from the front on roads with slight imperfections like sewer plate, etc.
Direction is also more precise.

Great explanation Bullitt! Thanks!
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Unread 03-06-2010   #4 (permalink)
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good write up! i added it to the sticky thread of links
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Unread 06-07-2010   #5 (permalink)
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I did this to my 01' Saleen and it really does make a world of difference. What used to be an almost unbearable roar and an unbelievable excess wear on the left rear tire is now gone.

Though I do have one question to post along with this. I still have a lot of clatter and clank from the front when driving. I take off the wheel and spin the lugs and theres nothing, but if i put the brakes and the wheel back on it makes a horrible sound like metal dragging and banging against metal. It's extremely loud and comes from a 2 mph roll all the way up to 65 mph. Could this be the bearing again? I replaced them twice in two weeks. Could this be the brakes rattling? Possibly the rotors need to be turned? Any help is much appreciated.
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Unread 06-07-2010   #6 (permalink)
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It definitely sounds like a brake problem to me.
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2001 Dark Highland Green Bullitt
12.25@110 naturally aspirated on a bone stock 2V longblock

Under Reconstruction for RS275 Drag Radial Class
Pushrods and Powerglide Coming Soon

If it weren't for physics and law enforcement, I'd be unstoppable.
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Unread 06-07-2010   #7 (permalink)
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Do you think that the caliper is beating around inside the bracket or something? Maybe where the pads are holding the caliper in its jiggling around or something? Come to think of it, is there another way to secure the pads and caliper in the bracket other than the one retaining pin that goes in the bottom after you slide the pads and caliper back on? Maybe a clip or something for the top. I believe the caliper is a two piston, same as was on the cobras of that year.
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Unread 06-08-2010   #8 (permalink)
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where did you find it for 45? im looking at rockauto now and its over a 100 for a hub assembly. could your provide the part number bullitt?
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Unread 06-08-2010   #9 (permalink)
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Here's the part number I used;

TIMKEN Part # 513115 $47.79
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2001 Dark Highland Green Bullitt
12.25@110 naturally aspirated on a bone stock 2V longblock

Under Reconstruction for RS275 Drag Radial Class
Pushrods and Powerglide Coming Soon

If it weren't for physics and law enforcement, I'd be unstoppable.
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Unread 06-08-2010   #10 (permalink)
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Thanks again your a life saver. mines been going bad for quite a while now.
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Unread 10-06-2010   #11 (permalink)
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Did this on my 2001 Bullitt yesterday.. This was too easy, did both sides in under 1.5 hrs. Thanks for the great instructions.
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Unread 10-06-2010   #12 (permalink)
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hey I did the wheel bearing the other day like 7-8 days ago and it is cake.

and +1 timken is sweet thats the only bearing I will ever use from now on
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Unread 03-29-2012   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bullitt5339 View Post
Guys, I did this a little while ago, and let me tell you, this is by far the easiest thing I've replaced on the car. I hadn't done a hub on a Mustang yet, but dove into it, and laughed when I was done. It literally takes 15-20 minutes start to finish, but books for an hour labor at the shop. So save yourself $60, and do it yourself, and you'll laugh also. The wheel bearings in the front of the Mustang are not replaceable (well, they are, but it's a pain to find them), and after seeing that the entire hub is only $45 from RockAuto, it's well worth the $15 extra to buy the entire hub, and not have to worry about pressing the bearings out an in.

Tools Needed:

Lug Wrench
Jack
Jack Stands
36mm socket (can be rented from Autozone)
ratchet
breaker bar
Torque Wrench 250ft lb capable (can be rented from Autozone)
15mm socket
rubber mallet

Parts Needed:

New Hub Assembly ($45 from RockAuto)
New Spindle Nut ($8 from RockAuto)
New dust cover ($4 from Ford)

#1: Jack the car up and remove the wheel.

#2: Crack open the bleeder valve for the brakes. This will make getting them off a lot easier.

#3: Remove the caliper and bracket together by unbolting the 2 15mm bolts from the back. Tuck it up behind the strut, out of the way.

#4: Remove the brake rotor. Just pulls right off.

#5: Remove the dust cap from the hub with a screwdriver or small prybar.

#6: Using a 36mm socket, remove the factory spindle nut, and throw it away. YOU MUST USE A NEW NUT EVERYTIME YOU REMOVE IT!!!!

#7: A few gentle taps with a mallet will take the hub right off. Part of my offending bad bearing stayed behind, so a few more taps, and it was off also.

#8: Clean the spindle up with some brake cleaner

#9: Slide the new hub on the spindle

#10: Tighten the new spindle nut TIGHT!!!!. It calls for a torque value of 258ft lbs. I know most torque wrenches don't go that high, so you have to check it out first. The one I had went to 250ft lbs, so I went until it clicked, and then leaned on it a little bit more.

#11: Put a new dustcap on the new hub, and tap it on with a rubber mallet.

#12: Reinstall the brake rotor

#13: Reinstall the brake caliper

#14: Bleed the brakes since you had the bleeder screw open

#15: Put your wheel back on.

And you're done. Super Easy fix that takes no time.
This is a very old thread, but I recently replaced the OEM hubs on my 08 GT/CS with FRPP Hubs with ARP Long Studs. Here are a few pictures that roughly follow the original post:

The ARP studs are 1 inch longer than the OEM studs.

Before picture OEM Hub and Studs:



Baer Caliper and Rotor removed and Spindle nut backed off with a 35mm socket and breaker bar:



OEM Hub removed:



FRPP Hub installed and torqued to 221 lbs-ft with a 36mm socket, and dust cap installed:



Baer Rotor and Caliper installed:



Wheel installed with FRPP Open Ended Lug Nuts (for use with the SVT wheels).



Pretty simple install, the aspect that took the longest was probably removing the Red Loctite from the Caliper Bolts.
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Unread 06-13-2012   #14 (permalink)
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Default rear wheel bearing

i'm trying to replace my rear hub assembly, i know it's different with the e brake. is that pretty much the only real difference between front and rear?
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Unread 06-13-2012   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bherkes View Post
i'm trying to replace my rear hub assembly, i know it's different with the e brake. is that pretty much the only real difference between front and rear?
No. Need some details about what car you have, but the difference between front and rear is more like night and day.
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