How To: Replace Wheel Bearings/Hub Assembly
Guys, I did this a little while ago, and let me tell you, this is by far the easiest thing I've replaced on the car. I hadn't done a hub on a Mustang yet, but dove into it, and laughed when I was done. It literally takes 15-20 minutes start to finish, but books for an hour labor at the shop. So save yourself $60, and do it yourself, and you'll laugh also. The wheel bearings in the front of the Mustang are not replaceable (well, they are, but it's a pain to find them), and after seeing that the entire hub is only $45 from RockAuto, it's well worth the $15 extra to buy the entire hub, and not have to worry about pressing the bearings out an in.
36mm socket (can be rented from Autozone)
Torque Wrench 250ft lb capable (can be rented from Autozone)
New Hub Assembly ($45 from RockAuto)
New Spindle Nut ($8 from RockAuto)
New dust cover ($4 from Ford)
#1: Jack the car up and remove the wheel.
#2: Crack open the bleeder valve for the brakes. This will make getting them off a lot easier.
#3: Remove the caliper and bracket together by unbolting the 2 15mm bolts from the back. Tuck it up behind the strut, out of the way.
#4: Remove the brake rotor. Just pulls right off.
#5: Remove the dust cap from the hub with a screwdriver or small prybar.
#6: Using a 36mm socket, remove the factory spindle nut, and throw it away. YOU MUST USE A NEW NUT EVERYTIME YOU REMOVE IT!!!!
#7: A few gentle taps with a mallet will take the hub right off. Part of my offending bad bearing stayed behind, so a few more taps, and it was off also.
#8: Clean the spindle up with some brake cleaner
#9: Slide the new hub on the spindle
#10: Tighten the new spindle nut TIGHT!!!!. It calls for a torque value of 258ft lbs. I know most torque wrenches don't go that high, so you have to check it out first. The one I had went to 250ft lbs, so I went until it clicked, and then leaned on it a little bit more.
#11: Put a new dustcap on the new hub, and tap it on with a rubber mallet.
#12: Reinstall the brake rotor
#13: Reinstall the brake caliper
#14: Bleed the brakes since you had the bleeder screw open
#15: Put your wheel back on.
And you're done. Super Easy fix that takes no time.
2001 Dark Highland Green Bullitt
12.25@110 naturally aspirated on a bone stock 2V longblock
Under Reconstruction for RS275 Drag Radial Class
Pushrods and Powerglide Coming Soon
If it weren't for physics and law enforcement, I'd be unstoppable.