2000 Mustang GT Thermostat help please - Ford Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-08-2010 Thread Starter
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Cool 2000 Mustang GT Thermostat help please

Im gonna change my t stat to a 170 Do you think that will sync fine with everything or is it to cold?
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-08-2010
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I don't know if it will cause any problems, but with the newer computer controlled cars, there's no benefit to running a cooler thermostat like there was in days past.

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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-08-2010
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i was going to as well and i was told it can throw allot of things off. i cant remeber what, but go ahead and give summit racing a call and talk to one of thier tecks they will give you a list of things it wont help. the old racer stuff doesnt work to well with thies computer controlled motors.

cams, and all basic bolt ons, arizen seats, cowl hood, and now my buckets got a hole in it (meaning im broke) but when i fix it ill have gears and some trany work
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-08-2010
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Why then can I change the temp my fans come on with my programer??? Thought that whent with the colder thermo???
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-08-2010
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You are correct Roush, my point was that there's really no benefit to running a 180 or 170 over the stock 195 thermostat in performance. I used to run 160's in my old carb'd cars, or just a flow restrictor sometimes, but the computer doesn't care, and if you get down too low, you'll start getting codes for engine not reaching operating temperature.

I just think it's not worth losing my nice hot heat for no performance gain. If there was any measureable gain, I'd probably do it though.

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12.25@110 naturally aspirated on a bone stock 2V longblock

Under Reconstruction for RS275 Drag Radial Class
Pushrods and Powerglide Coming Soon

If it weren't for physics and law enforcement, I'd be unstoppable.
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-08-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wonBadgt View Post
Im gonna change my t stat to a 170 Do you think that will sync fine with everything or is it to cold?
Run the factory TStat, it's made to work with your engine for a reason.

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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-08-2010
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I have had a 180*F thermostat in my 2000 GT for about 7 yrs. The only real issue is that with a thermostat below 180*F you will stay in open loop in cold weather and the car will run too rich and as stated trigger the CEL for failure to reach operating temperature.

In summer, the car will still run at around 192*F even with a 180*F since it just opens sooner than the stock thermostat. With a blower in the car and a tune set up for 180*F thermostat, I now run around 170*F to 174*F when it is below 80*F outside without issues.

I didn't really notice much (if any) change in performance with the 180*F thermostat over the stock one. I just liked the engine running a little cooler because like Bullitt, I liked keeping my 5.0 engine cooler to trick the computer to run a little stronger.
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-09-2010
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!70 is too low IMO. I prefer the 180, been using it for a long time and never an issue. Everyone I know around here runs that as well. Some people have tried 170 but had issues. The stock 195 or 180, take your pick, I prefer the 180, but I also live where it gets hotter than the forges of hell.

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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-09-2010
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The stock 195 or 180, take your pick, I prefer the 180, but I also live where it gets hotter than the forges of hell.
I didn't know u lived here in Mississippi too, howdy neighbor j/k
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I didn't know u lived here in Mississippi too, howdy neighbor j/k
Hahaha, I'm less than 100 miles north of cuba, though sometimes I think its more like 10 miles away for all the english you hear around here.

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It will be fine. I ran a 180 in my 98 GT, I even ran a 160 in my mach 1, and had no issues, and never had a CEL. My tuner retuned for the 160 and I had no problems with the car heating up, or my heater working properly. It ran fine in the winter months as in the summer and didn't really affect gas mileage. I know some have already said their was no benefit to running a cooler stat since it is computer controlled, :?:, but if their was no benefit, you wouldn't have the option to retune for it, nor would people do it. I'll bet if some of these nay-sayers would try it, especially for racing, they would see a difference in ET's between running with a cooler engine and with a 190+ heat-soaked engine. I am in the process of doing a few things and a 170 stat is on the list. I will admit 160 is pretty low, but the 4v engines generally run warmer unless you do the "cooling mod" to the drivers side head. My tuner suggests no lower than 170, so, I say go for it! My 2 cents.

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Quote:
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I know some have already said their was no benefit to running a cooler stat since it is computer controlled, :?:, but if their was no benefit, you wouldn't have the option to retune for it, nor would people do it. I'll bet if some of these nay-sayers would try it, especially for racing, they would see a difference in ET's between running with a cooler engine and with a 190+ heat-soaked engine. My tuner suggests no lower than 170, so, I say go for it! My 2 cents.
The reason that below 180*F is not recommended, is also that the engine tolerances were engineered for the stock 192*F thermostat. (pistons, rings, etc) Tuning will add more timing and keep the A/F in check, but this still won't add much benefit to a stock motor.

On a basically stock car, running a lower thermostat without tuning for it isn't going to make much of a difference.

I run a 180*F in my car since it has a blower and I want to keep it cooler, but I also run the low speed fan at 174*F and the high speed fan at 180*F and am tuned for the 180*F thermostat.

The main mistake most people seem to make is that they think putting in a lower thermostat will keep the engine cool in hot weather. The thermostat will open at a lower temperature, but in hot weather, the radiator still rejects the same amound of heat and unless it is upgraded to a more efficient style radiator or the cooling fan set points are lowered to help reject heat, the car still runs about the same temperature.

If you upgrade the radiator and/or lower the fan set points, then you can see colder temps.

I had an 89 LX 5.0 / 5speed that came with a 160*F thermostat, it ran like crap, the heater didn't put out heat and the CEL stayed on. After I replaced the thermostat with 180*F thermostat, all the issues went away and the car ran like a champ. I will admit the newer 4.6 is more tolerant of running cooler.

Also we are for the most part talking about a daily driver not a race car.
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Hahaha, I'm less than 100 miles north of cuba, though sometimes I think its more like 10 miles away for all the english you hear around here.
Ha I take it you live in Miami. I just moved about an hour and half north from Fort Lauderdale, due to same reason you speak of. Got kids going to school next year
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 02 shaker View Post
It will be fine. I ran a 180 in my 98 GT, I even ran a 160 in my mach 1, and had no issues, and never had a CEL. My tuner retuned for the 160 and I had no problems with the car heating up, or my heater working properly. It ran fine in the winter months as in the summer and didn't really affect gas mileage. I know some have already said their was no benefit to running a cooler stat since it is computer controlled, :?:, but if their was no benefit, you wouldn't have the option to retune for it, nor would people do it. I'll bet if some of these nay-sayers would try it, especially for racing, they would see a difference in ET's between running with a cooler engine and with a 190+ heat-soaked engine. I am in the process of doing a few things and a 170 stat is on the list. I will admit 160 is pretty low, but the 4v engines generally run warmer unless you do the "cooling mod" to the drivers side head. My tuner suggests no lower than 170, so, I say go for it! My 2 cents.
I am a nay-sayer because I have tried it, and it makes no difference in the 1/4 mile at all. The only difference is that your heat sucks in the winter time, and if it's very cold where you live, a 160 will not allow the engine to heat up to proper operating temperature.

Don't assume that everyone on here just spits out B.S., some of us have tried about everything in pursuit of that extra .01 second over the years. I'm not running 12 second 1/4 mile times on a full weight, naturally aspirated, bone stock engined car by not trying new things. I actually tried a 160 degree thermostat on my 12.10 '99 naturally aspirated GT along with a new tune to try to squeak into the 11's full weight, and saw no difference except while daily driving it in the winter, I got the check engine light. Swapped to a 170 and no check engine light, but also no gain in performance at all.

2001 Dark Highland Green Bullitt
12.25@110 naturally aspirated on a bone stock 2V longblock

Under Reconstruction for RS275 Drag Radial Class
Pushrods and Powerglide Coming Soon

If it weren't for physics and law enforcement, I'd be unstoppable.
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Well Bullitt, while it may not have worked for YOU, It worked for me and many of others. Just because it doesn't work for you doesn't mean it shouln't be done. I had no problems with it heating in the winter time at all, it heated just as well as with the stock stat. On the other hand, my tuner re-tuned for the different stat, so therefore, I did not have any other issues and NO CEL's either. I still say go for it.

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Meziere electric W/P & 170 stat, C&L air filter system, Summit & March U/D pulleys, FRPP 70mm throttlebody, Perf Prod. plenum, FRPP alum. D/S & 4:56 gears, Auburn Diff, Alloy axles, Revmax 3000 stall conv. UPR rear upper & lower control arms, Lakewood drag shocks & struts, Eibach rear drag springs, SCT chip & tune, Flowmaster mufflers
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