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Unread 03-16-2011   #1 (permalink)
xKeatonx is offline Apprentice

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Default Transmission trouble - Code po782 please any input welcome

1999 Mustang GT 4.6l sohc stock transmission.. Not too techy to know which model the transmission actually is.. 129k miles.

So I had a potential buyer for my car!.. Only problem was on my way home from work the overdrive light started flashing. This happened quite awhile ago and I just cleared code and drove fine. Now, It's back and jerking hard when it shifts from 2-3 and down from 3-2?

Took it to a dealership and of course they charged me $100 to tell me exactly what I knew was wrong with it. The code Po782 doesn't specify what the **** is actually wrong with the car. I'm thinking maybe I need a new solenoid? Or maybe the transmission valve is stuck/clogged? I'm running on a budget of nearly $500 to fix this transmission and will have a heart attack at the thought of a rebuild. Car has 129k miles. Is there ANY WAY I can figure out what the problem might be without spending hundreds of dollars for a shop to mis-diagnose my car and pay even more than I can afford?

ANY insight is welcome, and THANKS for the interest in my problem. I need this baby fixed so I can pursue the sell of the vehicle and purchase another one.

Miscellaneous info - Car revs high from 2-3 and sits at around 3-4k rpms and then shifts hard. Somewhat jerky of a shift. Then it shifts fast to 4th gear (Overdrive). When it downshifts it shifts hard as well from 3-2, I believe. I have never dropped the pan before or done a tranny fluid change by myself. Again, any insight is welcome. Thank you.
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Unread 03-16-2011   #2 (permalink)
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I am going to do my best to help you out here with this one, I am reading the repair instructions directly from Alldata Repair ( All garages including Ford uses this program).

Basically they want you to test for resistances and continuity in your shift solenoids. You have 3 solenoids they want you to test...

SSA - 20-30 (resistance in ohms)
SSB - 20-30 (resistance in ohms)
TCC - 10-16 (resistance in ohms)

Connect + to + and - to - from DMM to the solenoids to measure ohms for resistance
Connect + from DMM to both positive and negative on the solenoids and - from DMM to a body ground to measure for continuity. Connection should show infinite resistance (no continuity). If you have continuity or the resistance isnt with in spec, replace solenoid(s).

Good luck. PM me if you need anything else.
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Unread 03-16-2011   #3 (permalink)
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First, check the fluid level for sure. If that is ok then it sounds like you have a either a sticky shift solenoid or a leaky 2-3 shift accumulator, both of which are easy to replace and relatively cheap.
Because you say it is jerking on the 3-2 downshift along with late/harsh 2-3 upshifts, I would lean toward it being a sticky solenoid, more specifically it being SSB.
In order to change the shift solenoids SSA and SSB you have to drop the pan and valve body. While you are there you might as well change the 2-3 shift accumulator, it is cheap and easy to change. The shift solenoids SSA and SSB are sold in pairs so you will be changing both at the same time.
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Unread 03-16-2011   #4 (permalink)
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This is GREAT. Does anyone know a guide on dropping thr pan/VB? Maybe even replacing solenoids? I'm hoping to do this with some people instead of bringing it into a trans shop. :s, thanks guys!
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Unread 03-17-2011   #5 (permalink)
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Dropping the pan: (there is no drain plug for the pan so watch out, it can get messy

Quote:
3. Place a drain pan under the transmission fluid pan.
4. To Drain transmission fluid.
-Loosen the transmission fluid pan bolts and allow fluid to drain. After fluid is drained remove the bolts.
5. Remove the transmission fluid pan and transmission fluid pan gasket.
6. Pull down evenly and remove the transmission fluid filter, seal and filter kit.
7. Remove torque converter housing plug.
8. Remove the torque converter drain plug and drain the torque converter.

-Rotate the crankshaft to access the drain plug.
9. Clean and inspect the transmission fluid pan, gasket and magnet.

2-3 Accumulator:

Quote:
Removal
1. Remove the main control valve body. For additional information, refer to «Main Control—Valve Body».
µ 2. Remove the 2-3 accumulator piston retainer.
µ 3. Remove the accumulator piston and spring.

Installation
µ 1. Install the 2-3 accumulator assembly.

1 Install the accumulator piston.

2 Install the accumulator piston spring.

3 Install the accumulator spring retainer.
2. Install the main control valve body. For additional information, refer to «Main Control—Valve Body» in this section.
Main Control Valve Body----also the SSA and SSB solenoids

Quote:
Removal
1. Drain transmission fluid and remove the transmission fluid pan and filter. For additional information, refer to «Fluid Pan, Gasket and Filter».
µ 2. CAUTION:
Do not pull on the molded lead frame. This may cause damage to the connector ends. Carefully pry up on the locking tabs to disconnect the solenoids. Disconnect the molded lead frame from the solenoids.

Disconnect the molded lead frame from the solenoids.

1 Disconnect the shift solenoid SSA and SSB.

2 Disconnect the torque converter clutch (TCC).

3 Disconnect the electronic pressure control (EPC) solenoid.

4 Disconnect the bulkhead inter-connector.
µ 3. Remove the manual control valve detent lever spring.

1 Remove the bolt.

2 Remove the manual control valve detent lever spring.
µ 4. Remove the 24 valve body to case bolts.
µ 5. Remove the main control valve body and discard the pump outlet screen.


Installation
µ 1. Note:
Make sure that the drive pin of the manual valve detent lever assembly engages the manual valve in the correct location prior to installing the bolts.

Position the main control valve body gasket and main control valve body using the two alignment bolts as a guide.
µ 2. Note:
The main control valve body bolts will be tightened in later steps.

Loosely install the bolts.
µ 3. Note:
The main control valve body bolts will be tightened in later steps.

Loosely install the bolts.
µ 4. Install the manual control valve detent lever spring.

1 Position the manual control valve detent lever spring.

2 Install the bolt.
µ 5. Tighten the main control valve body bolts in the sequence shown.
µ 6. Inspect the lead frame for damage.

l Using the special tool, check all lead frame solenoid connections.

l If the special tool passes through any lead frame connector pins, install a new lead frame.
µ 7. Connect the molded lead frame to the solenoids.

l Connect the bulkhead inter-connector.

l Connect the EPC solenoid.

l Connect the TCC.

l Connect the shift solenoid SSA and SSB.
µ 8. Install the transmission filter and pan. For additional information, refer to «Fluid Pan, Gasket and Filter» in this section.
It looks like a lot of work but it is not I have done this a few times the only trick is to be carefull when pulling the molded lead frame out.
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